My $6000 T2 thread.
The dude forked out quite a fortune. I'd do full exhuast, coilovers, some wheels, maybe a turbo kit?
edit* oh and the Koyo Radiator for sure. Don't forget to replace the hoses, summer timeis comming.
edit* oh and the Koyo Radiator for sure. Don't forget to replace the hoses, summer timeis comming.
needs an FD
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 755
Likes: 0
From: sacramento
if you're planning on selling it in under a year do the body work and tune up/maintainence stuff...you're not gonna get the money out fo it that you want to put into it...save ur money for a car ur planning on keeping more than 10 months...this just kinda seems like throwing money away to me...just my .02
And the Revolution...
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,383
Likes: 1
From: NC
Originally Posted by jono20
because I ENJOY fixing cars. This is my 3rd RX-7 now. To me it feels great to buy a car thats barely running put a couple thousand hours of work into it, and see the outcome. I like building up different ways and trying different things to see what works better.
no matter how good I get, theres always something I regret doing. something where I know if I did it again I would do it differently. I like giving myself the chance to start over and perfect all of my techniques.
If I do all the labour, paint, and bodywork myself, and take advantages of the prices I can get through a few people, I break even, or make money on the car when I sell it.
Plus I move up to Dawson Creek next year for a few months to finish off the Aircraft Maintenance Eningeering course im in, so ill probably be buying a truck for a few months.
Anyways! im princing out rtek to see if I can fit it in to my budget. Ill need to buy injector and stuff too..
The Rad, fuel pump, e-fan, and rtek are all a great idea, but Ive got to stay within this budget I set. There are a few things I MUST buy for it, like a throwout bearing and rotors/pads fer the brakes. im just trying to price everything out.
I mean the rtek is 400 dollars by itself, plus shipping, plus the hotsync cable, plus shipping and duties accross the border. thats a lot of money :P along with new injectors and stuff im geting up toward 1000 bucks just for the fuel management.
like I said. I need this to be my DD, and I dont want to sell a car ive beat the crap out of. im staying conservative as much as possible. everything I need to keep the car stable and safe.
no matter how good I get, theres always something I regret doing. something where I know if I did it again I would do it differently. I like giving myself the chance to start over and perfect all of my techniques.
If I do all the labour, paint, and bodywork myself, and take advantages of the prices I can get through a few people, I break even, or make money on the car when I sell it.
Plus I move up to Dawson Creek next year for a few months to finish off the Aircraft Maintenance Eningeering course im in, so ill probably be buying a truck for a few months.
Anyways! im princing out rtek to see if I can fit it in to my budget. Ill need to buy injector and stuff too..
The Rad, fuel pump, e-fan, and rtek are all a great idea, but Ive got to stay within this budget I set. There are a few things I MUST buy for it, like a throwout bearing and rotors/pads fer the brakes. im just trying to price everything out.
I mean the rtek is 400 dollars by itself, plus shipping, plus the hotsync cable, plus shipping and duties accross the border. thats a lot of money :P along with new injectors and stuff im geting up toward 1000 bucks just for the fuel management.
like I said. I need this to be my DD, and I dont want to sell a car ive beat the crap out of. im staying conservative as much as possible. everything I need to keep the car stable and safe.
Stable and safe would be a Koyo and Efan. That FCD you have is a bad idea. The rtek comes with that so get rid of the one you have. If it were me and I wanted reliability with a couple psi increase in boost I would get the radiator, Rtek2.0, and a boost controller. You're looking at around $800 for all that stuff. Of course I would get the rad and the boost controller used. The Injectors aren't a have to but I would certainly upgrade the fuel pump, You could even get an FD pump for what you need instead of a walbro or something.
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,135
Likes: 0
From: Vernon, BC
haha yeah. take it youre the fella up in prince george?
this sounds like exactly what im looking for for this project.
im still stuck on the rtek though. I mean the 1.7 needs the secondaries at 720cc anyways. would I really notice a difference when using the 2.0 when im only upping the boost a couple psi?
Stable and safe would be a Koyo and Efan. That FCD you have is a bad idea. The rtek comes with that so get rid of the one you have. If it were me and I wanted reliability with a couple psi increase in boost I would get the radiator, Rtek2.0, and a boost controller. You're looking at around $800 for all that stuff. Of course I would get the rad and the boost controller used. The Injectors aren't a have to but I would certainly upgrade the fuel pump, You could even get an FD pump for what you need instead of a walbro or something.
im still stuck on the rtek though. I mean the 1.7 needs the secondaries at 720cc anyways. would I really notice a difference when using the 2.0 when im only upping the boost a couple psi?
I'm back Bishes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
From: Rhode Island
Wow I somehow missed this thread. 8-9PSI on a stock turbo as a DD is soooo simple. I know everyone has been saying rtek, and megasquirt etc. etc. etc., but are we overlooking the basic fundamentals to great HP gains on a small budget?
Full racingbeat exhaust and FCD for under 1000.00USD: Direct Quote
1987-91 TURBO REV II Complete High Performance Exhaust System*
This is the ultimate exhaust for any Turbo II RX-7! Let your turbo breathe to it’s full potential with our “turbo-back” complete exhaust system.
The REV TII High Performance Exhaust system incorporates a 3-inch OD down pipe from the turbo outlet that mates to a presilencer section. From the head of the Y-pipe two 2.375-inch OD (60mm) pipes extend to the ceramic wool-packed 304-stainless steel rear main mufflers. The bolt-on exhaust system increases horsepower approximately 32% - a 59 HP increase on a 1987 Turbo II RX-7!
Full racingbeat exhaust and FCD for under 1000.00USD: Direct Quote
1987-91 TURBO REV II Complete High Performance Exhaust System*
This is the ultimate exhaust for any Turbo II RX-7! Let your turbo breathe to it’s full potential with our “turbo-back” complete exhaust system.
The REV TII High Performance Exhaust system incorporates a 3-inch OD down pipe from the turbo outlet that mates to a presilencer section. From the head of the Y-pipe two 2.375-inch OD (60mm) pipes extend to the ceramic wool-packed 304-stainless steel rear main mufflers. The bolt-on exhaust system increases horsepower approximately 32% - a 59 HP increase on a 1987 Turbo II RX-7!
And the Revolution...
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,383
Likes: 1
From: NC
Originally Posted by jono20
haha yeah. take it youre the fella up in prince george?
this sounds like exactly what im looking for for this project.
im still stuck on the rtek though. I mean the 1.7 needs the secondaries at 720cc anyways. would I really notice a difference when using the 2.0 when im only upping the boost a couple psi?
this sounds like exactly what im looking for for this project.
im still stuck on the rtek though. I mean the 1.7 needs the secondaries at 720cc anyways. would I really notice a difference when using the 2.0 when im only upping the boost a couple psi?
The reason you would get the 2.0 is so you wouldn't have to get a SAFC on top of the 1.7. The 1.7 offers no tunability. Its just remapped for the larger injectors. With the 2.0, you could bump the boost up with a controller and then compensate with the fuel. If you bought the 1.7 you would have to buy a boost controller on top of that and then a SAFC on top of that.
It might be possible to use a wideband and see how the 1.7 reacts with a little more boost, then use an adjustable FPR to increase PSI. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on that last part.
Chris
I'm back Bishes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
From: Rhode Island
Originally Posted by DarkKnightFC
You're saying that would make more power than a custom exhaust?
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,135
Likes: 0
From: Vernon, BC
school payment is coming up. im going to have to delay some of the bigger mods. probably keep boost stock for a little while until I can get the supporting mods done. ill bring it back to stock as much as I can and get it running super solid. need it to get me back and forth every day afterall!
is there any disadvantage to the stock air bypass valve as opposed to an aftermarket BOV when im only boosting the 5.5?
theres really no need for an rtek / afc at stock boost right?
is there any disadvantage to the stock air bypass valve as opposed to an aftermarket BOV when im only boosting the 5.5?
theres really no need for an rtek / afc at stock boost right?
Last edited by jono20; Jun 6, 2006 at 09:56 PM.
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