Just purchased my 2nd Rx-7 after mine was "totaled" out. I got this one for a grand out the door. It was a pretty nice 7... it just didn't run.

I got it home and got it to run, runs very nice... when its warm. Until it warms up, pulling out the EGI Comp. and cranking it for 10 seconds on gas, possibly two to three times, but usually after the first time it starts. If not, I live on the hill and roll-start it.

What are the usual causes for this?

I did not want to get into it too much, but as of recent with the windows fogging to an unsafe level, I need to fix the heater. It is not blowing hot air. I heard I need to check the logicon, only problem is, I can't find in my Haynes how to do that. As for the motor that I should hear click over, I am not sure how faint it is, but I hear two different clicks as I slide from off to high. Nothing from cold or hot that I could hear from inside the car.

Any suggestions or help would be very much appreciated.

Also, I have two FC's and recently purchased black door panels for the new car as the passenger side was missing and the other was blue. Yuck. I know that the lights in the panels work through plugging them into my old and totaled fc, but they do not turn on when into my new one.

Is this a simple wire that can be fixed relatively easily through the wiring in the door, or more internal?

Last but not least, from time to time, I get a "beep, beep, beep" noise like my door is open... when I turn my lights on. The idiot lights read constantly that one of the doors is open, not matter how hard I close it. Door idiot light is always on, but every now and again the beep noise will not come on when I initiate the lights.

Once again, suggestions and or help would be ideal.

 

If your key is in the ignition in the off position and your headlights are turned to the up position you are supposed to get a beeping sound. This is to remind people who leave their key in the ignition after turning the car off that their lights are still in the up(on) position.

 

There's probably a short for the door light being always on. Good luck on tracing that man, electricity is always a pain.

 

Sounds like your car`s flooding quite a bit. Search the FAQ for flooding.

 

If you are getting Some Beeps...HMM..you say that the heater is not Blowing Hot air.That makes me think that there is Either Low coolant,OR there is air in the System..that would give you beeps every once in ahwile..The door Light thing,Indicates the switch may be Screwed..Try to see if you can get the old one out and either Short it out to see if the Beeps go away..or get another switch to see if it Operates Correctly..I Sympathize with you though..I hate Fixing other peoples' Botch Jobs..Best thing On the NEXT go around..get a STOCK set-up..no Hacked wiring..that way you can Do that you Want to do with your Set-up and Know that If it doesn't Pan out,will be OK again If you return the "fix" to it's original State..Good Luck,ans Please Post results,Or what you did to allevaite your problem,to Help the Other guy that may have a similar Dilemma.

 

Waiting for a little nicer of a day or go at it, sometime this weekend possibly.

Satch-I turn my lights on the with car running and get the beeps. It will be beeping until I am over with my drive and the lights go off.

In the mean time, anyone else have suggestions?
Bump.

 

Beeps could be internal malfuncion in the warning light cluster (i.e. cold solder joints, shorts), short to ground at the door switch (i.e. if the wire unplugs to the switch and grounds out it's like the door is open - pull the switch after removing the screw and see if the wire is still attached.

How many km/miles on the odometer? Sounds like the engine's flooding. Low compression most likely, maybe leaking injectors. Wire a fuel cutoff swich to one of the coils in the circuit opening relay (near steering column), which disables the fuel pump with ignition on. Turn engine off using fuel cutoff. This essentially takes the fuel rail pressure down, so you won't flood next time you start the engine. Band-aid fix, but cheaper than rebuilding. Plenty threads on fuel cutoff switch (kill switch), and look at icemark and aaron cake's site regarding electrical problems.

Other clues to warning light troubles are a non-functioning clock.

BTW, if you set your dome light to "door" is it on when the door light is lit on the warning cluster? This should keep you busy for a while.

 

As a quick fix to alleviate the beeping try removing the bulb for the door(the one in the warning light unit) and see if the beeping stops. Of course this will not fix the problem but it might stop the beeping until you find or locate the actual problem.

 

I am sorry. I should have specified.

The beeping comes on when I turn on my headlights. Whether it is the pre-lits or the actual headlights. Any twist of that **** and beep beep.

:[ ... I really hope its not low compression and in need of a rebuild. It was 200,000 on it actually, but it seems to have just been rebuilt, at least it very clean like it was just rebuilt. Runs great, no smoke at any rev, and has power.

The clock does NOT work. Solder joints you say? If we could dumb this down as much as possible, I am just passing this along to my dad who helps me work on the car.

 

Also as a side note: The idle screw on the throttle body is totally closed down and the lowest it will idle is 15 to 1600 rpm. It also has an after market K&N air filter.

 

The Most Electrical problems I have encountered with the RX-7 is Solder connection issues in The Heater logicon. Basically if the logicon dosent work correctly 90% of the time i have found out that there was a loose solder connection on the logic board. Also weard stuff like the signal light , horn relay, and key and light reminder chimes are located in the cpu left side near left drivers foot area beside the inside fusebox. This cpu develops solder connections as well causing some strange lighting issues and many other electrical problems to appear at times.
An easy fix if you or someone you know can solder well you should have no problem with the repair. Most of the time i will resolder all the joints on the boards while they are out. You can inspect them you will probably see some small hairline cracks around the solder and the board of most of the components that just work loose from all the years of rideing around in the car and from all the temperature changes it has gone through over the years.
I would start here with the connections first and if they are ok then you can work your way up to checking the actuator motors on the heater box to make sure they open and close when you select cold through hot also when in defog or defrost another actuator door will open directing the air flow to the proper vents.
A good place to start here is check that all the rods to the doors are connected they have plastic ends that connect them to the doors and once in a while they break loose. And at that point the door never gets moved the door motor still moves but the door dosent.
As for the engine sounds as if it may be flooding. I would check the compression and sometimes if the car has sit for a while it might be that if the engine is ran for a while it might improve compression if it is a bit low.
The original factory service manuals can be found free online in pdf version I dont remember the web page right off but I will try and find a link to it and get it on here as soon as I can. Hope this will be some help to you.

 

actually when i bought my car the door light was always on, and i found out that the sensor or switch thing that senses the door is closed was broken, so it was like a 2 min fix after i got the sensor from a junkyard. yea i felt like an idiot when i found out but you might wanna check before you start dealing with the electricals.