So I made myself spend today mounting my FMIC that will be used for a future project to my FC. It was a ~31x7x3 inch unit, which was a little large in length but anyways, nine hours later I had some gnarly holes cut in the sheet metal (with a blowtorch, oh yeah) and new structure welded in to hold the original radiator with the fmic right up against it at the very top, held on with padding and clamp straps around the tanks, so it won't show out the bumper or obstruct my oil cooler. All that's visible of the intercooler is the end tanks sticking out the holes in the sheet metal in front of the radiator in the engine bay. My battery is relocated so it's not in the way of the outlets. I haven't made the pipes yet.

He he, u haven't lived until u do ur own custom fmic mount job. Sorry I don't have pics, my computer is fried and won't read my digicam disc any more.

 

You should have rented or borrowed a plasma cutter, lol

 

or a hole saw... pretty simple to get nice round holes with a hole saw.

 

this is exaclty what i need... a hole saw? plasma cutter?

where can i rent these? or buy them if they're cheap enough.

 

3 inch hole saw blades and mandrels are available at Home depot. Then you just need a good heavy duty electric drill.

 

what about a plasma cutter?

 

theres one locally around me that has them brand new for sale for $1800 i still think thats pretty expensive ill just stick with jigsaws and hole saws
TwEaK

 

ouch....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...837047211&rd=1

but hey, FREE SHIPPING!

so far i'm liking icemark's idea better...

can't wait to see the pics 88Integra.

 

It's what I used for my GReddy FMIC Piping. Same saw from same place. I have no complaints.

 

Hole saw is a great tip but this baby needed metal cut to fit the tanks past the radiator support metal, it's basically shoehorned in there like a three rotor in an FD lol, but thanks for the tip.

 

Yeah, a holesaw is good for that purpose, I didn't think of that.. I'll have to remember that one.. You do have to cut holes when using the Greddy kit also, dont you?

 

Yes. I made the hole to the Driverside a little bigger to allow that pipe (going to TB) to have a little more room to play with. I purposely cut of 1.5" of this end In order to allow the 90 degree bend to sit flush with the TB and clear the Brake Master Cylinder.

ie.

 

What a sweet engine bay. Mine will look pretty natural and ugly.

 

It'll be Silver like the rest of the car over the Winter. New Fenders, quarter panels and Rocker Panels will be swapped In aswell. I have a friend that worked for Ferrari that did the body work for smashed up Ferrari's, Lamborghini's etc that will be heading the project from his backyard shop.
More pics can be found here. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=324100

 

damn silverrotor, that intercooler setup is bad ***. did you relocate your battery? it looks as if you did, but i am not sure. also, what size intercooler did you use? are you using the stock flip-up headlight designs? etc....i basically am in the market for an intercooler, but not sure about clearances and a good route of piping for the TB side. but your set-up looks quite capitol!! i need some tips and sizing about the intercoolers and such.

Thanks,
Ryan Shannon.

 

Hey Ryan, longtime. I am using a GReddy V-SPL Intercooler Kit, relocated Yellow Top to the Storage Bin and East Bear Headlights. If you go with this Intercooler Kit, trim some piping off (nearest to the TB) so the elbow sits flush. It'll look alot better this way.

 

i just ordered a greddy vspec kit. is that different from the V-SPL?

 

Hey dude whens your car going back together?

Catch me on aim some time, I am going to toss this motor back togther now that I have the parts and wouldnt mind having someone to watch over . Even If I have to bring everything down to you.

 

Bah, will I ever finish my lysholm Millenia S conversion?

Here is the fmic though:

 

what happened do your engine? or am i just out of the loop?

 

isnt that going to affect the flow of air going to the radiator?

Tip.. clean your engine bay before puting the engine back..or just
repaint. lol

 

A FMIC will restrict air to the radiator, yes. Its not really too much of a problem on a street car that generally sees boost in small intervals.

On the racetrack, its a different story. You are on boost a lot more frequently and the car likes to get pretty hot very quickly. The best solution for that is to fabricate ducting to force as much air through the radiator as possible (rather than around it).

 

Growing pains. I'm teething as an engine builder. I've cured my side seal issues, and the latest issue was just lack of loctite on tension bolt threads + silicone instead of hylomar on the water ring grooves + high revs due to the latest port change and resultant sweet power band from 5k - 7.8k rpm.

In a week or two I'll have engine build # 5 (or 6, I lost count) back in for some more gtech testing of my latest port timing changes. It was up to .38g in second gear and about .27 in third, man it was great.