Motor rotates 3 times around then LOCKS UP!!
05-26-09, 11:23 PM
#1
Motor rotates 3 times around then LOCKS UP!!
In the process of putting my car back together. im about to put my manifolds on spark plugs in ect. to put my motor in but figured ill poor a little 2 stroke in the motor and spin it around a few times so its not starting dry. poor some in i got a 19mm socket on th pulley im just spinning it with the rachet and i get 3 crank roations into it and it just hits a brick wall WTF. so i spin it the opp. way same thing. i do this for hours like 5! the motor has AMAZING compression. i looked in all the holes at the housings and apex seals (what i could see of them) wich was pretty much the whole thing and they all look good. everything looks good. the motor has around 5k on it atkins built it. IDK what to do
any suggestions? Im NOT breaking the motor down thats just not happening. I figured if all else fails ill put it in and if it blows it blows if it goes it goes 
Im going to have a video up soon like tommarow!!!!
any suggestions? Im NOT breaking the motor down thats just not happening. I figured if all else fails ill put it in and if it blows it blows if it goes it goes Im going to have a video up soon like tommarow!!!!
05-27-09, 04:56 AM
#2
Im not an engine builder by any means, but it sounds like maybe something is jammed in the teeth of one of the stationary gears, preventing you from spinning it any further than that.
No offense, but if you put the engine in the car the way it is and attempt to start it, you are an idiot. And it will cause damage. And you will have thrown all your time and money away.
Bite the bullet and tear it down.
*edit
just reread the post. Doesn't atkins offer any kind of warranty? They're a reputable builder. I doubt that they'd send the engine back to you in that condition.
No offense, but if you put the engine in the car the way it is and attempt to start it, you are an idiot. And it will cause damage. And you will have thrown all your time and money away.
Bite the bullet and tear it down.
*edit
just reread the post. Doesn't atkins offer any kind of warranty? They're a reputable builder. I doubt that they'd send the engine back to you in that condition.
05-27-09, 05:48 AM
#3
Longtime Lurker
I was just at atkins today and I can tell you they are pretty good. Give them a call and work with them rather than throwing you engine in and voiding any kind of warranty you might have had lol
05-27-09, 08:39 PM
#5
They live We sleep
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Just a side note. Before you take it apart put the engine on its side and rotate. If a bolt or something got stuck in there It might fall out the Exhaust port if your lucky
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05-27-09, 10:44 PM
#9
what really happend!
Alright now that some people got some input on this let me let you in on this. So my motor had the center stud broken off were the intake manifold goes on. the one right above the 2 center intake runners. Well i drove it last year with it broke but of course i had a air/ boost leak from there. This year i decided to fix it so i plugged the holes then tapped them off. i drilled the hole and tapped it but when the tap was in i just wanted to give the side of the tap just a little tap to see if it actually made healthy threads or not. No im not saying a smack or even any pressure on just a little baby tap. there was so much pressure on the tap when i did that it just exploeded and left me with a broken tap inside the block. so i had to take it to a machine shop to get it out. when i got my motor back there was diff tape on the holes and the towel inside weeere not there. well i told them DO NOT GET ANYTHING INSIDE THIS MOTOR. so i look on threw the exhaust port and see a little shavings and just thought ill blow them out with a blow gun so i did. well i turn my motor over and it get stuck. well needless to say it to me 5 hours and quarts and quarts of oil flushing that thing out getting **** pots of shavings out and got it to get it un stuck and to spin free. Now its the exact same problem again so if its more shavings or somthign else. i dont use any force what so ever when it stops cuz im not trying to break a seal or chip one. I also thought about 3 hours into cleaning it maybe if i put a impact on it it will spin faster and blow the stuff out more but it just tighten the pulley would that cause something? Now the motor spun free before i took it to the machine shop and it did'nt spin when i got it back soo. so now you know what really happend 
. im going to flush it all out again and see if i can get it to spin free again but ill make a video of it geting stuck first.
if its more shavings or somthign else. i dont use any force what so ever when it stops cuz im not trying to break a seal or chip one. I also thought about 3 hours into cleaning it maybe if i put a impact on it it will spin faster and blow the stuff out more but it just tighten the pulley would that cause something? Now the motor spun free before i took it to the machine shop and it did'nt spin when i got it back soo. so now you know what really happend . im going to flush it all out again and see if i can get it to spin free again but ill make a video of it geting stuck first.
05-27-09, 10:59 PM
#12
Super Raterhater
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If you're finding a LOT of shavings in the engine, and the thing doesn't want to turn I think you likely answered enough already. It takes 3 crank rotations for every 1 full rotation of the rotor...
05-28-09, 01:17 PM
#16
waht a cluster ****!
05-28-09, 04:01 PM
#19
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Anyone want to make a wager? I'm willing to bet money theirs still metal shavings in there and they got stuck between the rotor and apex seal causing it to get stuck. If it really means nothing to you if the motor pops, fill it up with a bunch of 2 cycle and just push on it till it rotates. It's eventually going to either break free or break the apex seal.
Pull it apart and prove me wrong.
Pull it apart and prove me wrong.
05-28-09, 11:22 PM
#22
why does it seem everyone is getting there panties in a bunch.
I called around to shops and asked them if they would do it but got to be 110% sure they will not get ANYTHING inside of it and they all said they didnt want to do it. so i called my regualr guy and told him what had happended with the tap breaking off and stuff so he said bring it in will fix it. I brought it in and they fixed it $110 to put the stud in and i had no choice but to get it done or run it without one again. ALLL my holes were filled with rags really tight and taped over when i took it to them. they changed that as i seen when i picked it up. any how they got a **** ton of shavings in it. But everyone settle down i tore it all down today got all the crap out now i have to get new seals and put it back together 
. the metal that was in there was nuts like half corn kernals it was crazy but my motor still looks amazing as so do my rotors. wish i had a seal kit in inventory so i could put it together tommarow. So this stud cost me $110+ hours and hours of time+ how much ever its goign to cost for new seals. what a cluster ****!!!!!!!!!
I called around to shops and asked them if they would do it but got to be 110% sure they will not get ANYTHING inside of it and they all said they didnt want to do it. so i called my regualr guy and told him what had happended with the tap breaking off and stuff so he said bring it in will fix it. I brought it in and they fixed it $110 to put the stud in and i had no choice but to get it done or run it without one again. ALLL my holes were filled with rags really tight and taped over when i took it to them. they changed that as i seen when i picked it up. any how they got a **** ton of shavings in it. But everyone settle down i tore it all down today got all the crap out now i have to get new seals and put it back together . the metal that was in there was nuts like half corn kernals it was crazy but my motor still looks amazing as so do my rotors. wish i had a seal kit in inventory so i could put it together tommarow. So this stud cost me $110+ hours and hours of time+ how much ever its goign to cost for new seals. what a cluster ****!!!!!!!!!
05-29-09, 10:23 AM
#23
Are the seals damaged? How do they look? I would just reuse them, since you never forced the full rotation. (Unless you did) Just spec out the apex seals i'm sure they are still good. If not send me pictures, i'll probably be interested in buying them off you.
05-29-09, 11:17 AM
#24
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I had a friend that wrecked two clean Turbo 2s... Then he bought a third and built up an engine. Half bridge ported, RB Aluminum side plates, New rotor housings, FD stationaries, 3mm apex seals, the whole nine.
He dropped a bolt into the intake and had the same problem you did, where it'd turn and get stuck.
Since he spent upwards of $5g on the engine, he said he'd definitely NOT be taking it apart again... Just like you. He said **** it and put it in the car. He thought if he just cranked it with the turbo off and it should drop out the manifold.
After he trashed the engine, he parted out the car and junked the chassis and bought a RB26 swapped 240SX because FC's are unreliable pieces of ****.
I have the rotor and housing for proof.
He dropped a bolt into the intake and had the same problem you did, where it'd turn and get stuck.
Since he spent upwards of $5g on the engine, he said he'd definitely NOT be taking it apart again... Just like you. He said **** it and put it in the car. He thought if he just cranked it with the turbo off and it should drop out the manifold.
After he trashed the engine, he parted out the car and junked the chassis and bought a RB26 swapped 240SX because FC's are unreliable pieces of ****.
I have the rotor and housing for proof.
