some people trust dyno numbers too much and some people add 100HP to the butt dyno for their numbers. i guess conservatively and usually am in the ballpark. i would rather say 250RWHP and spank a vette than say 350RWHP and get spanked by a stock corolla. some people just can't take the truth.


actually i can believe it is possible to put down 300RWHP with 9.4:1 rotors at over 12PSI with a front mount however i see a grim future for the engine with a piggyback engine management system and no cooling for intake charge on pump gas. it may be possible but it definitely is NOT safe. my main point is it has nothing to do with this thread...

 

Exactly! Stock ports and stock turbo..... AND everything else modded to the fullest would get you there. Everyone has a different idea of what "stock" is in this thread.

 

Stock motor is just that.. A stock motor, just as it came out of the factory from Mazda. Dont matter what you bolt on to that motor, its STILL A STOCK MOTOR. Once you slip 9.4:1 rotors in a STOCK 13BT (which isnt even a factory designation), then it becomes NOT STOCK.

I am not really sure what you dingbats are reading, but the question seems PAINFULLY obvious to me. Whats the max HP out of a STOCK FUGGIN MOTOR (13BT) with a STOCK FUGGIN TURBO bolted to it.

That means, no porting, no high compression rotors. If its got a standalone, or exhaust and intake, or *GASP* Nitrous, or what the **** ever bolted onto it, its still a stock motor.

Sheesh!

Oh, and Karack is a post *****...

 

300RWHP with a Front mount and a standalone, possible..... I would venture to say that is stretching it though.

Yes and no, a piggyback and a topmount are dangerous if pushing a high compression engine with a stock turbo at 12psi+. It depends on the A/F's. The Rtek 1.7 does a remarkable job. 20k really hard miles and counting.

The Rtek goes from 12.7 at 3000rpms gradually down to 12.1 at 7000rpms with this particular setup.

 

i am a post *****, i also ***** posts.

A/F #s dont mean a thing if the intake temp is too high, anyone who runs too high of compression without adequate cooling and conservative timing maps will learn the hard way when ambient temperatures rise.

 

the previous owner on my TII said he dyno'd 250 whp, with 14 psi on S5 turbo, stock S4 TII block, safcII, stock tmic. No dyno sheet to prove it though.

I would say the limit is somewhere around 250whp, you usually dont see anyone claim much higher than that.

 

I hope to have one soon ! Standard top-mount for the shortest piping possible, and some alcy injection, with a wide open intake and exhaust...with some decent tuning, of course. I'll be able to boost a good bit higher then most people, who have to fill up the long pipes of an FMIC, and I'll be nice and chilly with the alcohol...

Not for a few months, though And yes, stock S4 block, 119k miles, 90-95 compression...we'll see :O

 

I'm sorry, but I actually meant with porting. Heh, sorry about that. But yeah, with a large street port and stock turbo, how much am I looking at? Would 300 be achievable?

 

you won't be boosting any higher, maybe a tiny bit faster spooling though.

 

I used to have a dyno for 289rwhp @ 9psi on a s5 block/turbo. I contacted the owner of the car and he doesnt' have it either unfortuneatly..

 

Alchy will drop the intake temps signifigantly too. I have lots of experience in this area.

You gotta be kidding...

 

Well no I mean, I'll probably be having a lot more USEFUL boost then people with say, an FMIC. Having shorter pipes, I have basically 0 piping to pressurize, in comparison. My 14 psi will go a lot further then someone with an FMIC's 14 psi, won't it? And of course, I could go even higher then that, as the alcy will keep the turbo nice and cool..(assuming I place the fogger BEFORE the turbo)

 

I don't even want to go any further...3 pages of arguing, and were arguing about the wrong thing, and half of the posters' points get thrown out now.

Hell, with a large street port, some custom exhaust sleeves, custom intake, EMS, water-to-air intercooler, nitrous, and tuning, I can't see how 500rwhp isn't achievable.

The question is much to vague, and there are no exact stipulations.

 

nope, the intercooler still will be barely sufficient but only due to the alcohol injection. a bigger front mount will be able to cool 14psi better and the alcohol will just drop the intake temps even further for better power gains. the only downsides would be slightly more turbo lag and an increase in coolant temps due to the blockage of the radiator.

 

Besides the streetport, I'm planning on changing the exhaust, ofcourse, and get a Cold Air Intake, I mean, nothing major besides the large streetport, oh and a boost controller to turn up the boost. How much would I be looking at?

All this on stock turbo.

I do plan to get a bigger FMIC and all that jazz as well. All the stuff to keep all that extra power safe and managable.

 

that's what the dude said

of course not stock

 

Pretty close to 250whp. Stock ports, stock turbo. Dynapack dyno sheet is still available and the rebuild just fired up today for the first time!
Check it out https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/first-dyno-tii-244-6-whp-496773/

 

sorry to say but after reviewing that thread that looks like a twin turbo boost pattern, was a FD dynoed before your car perhaps?

 

Read the thread moron...

His FIRST post..

 

Lotta people calling BS on that thread, including RETed..

 

I doubt you will provide accurate information on a new dyno, but I think your in for a rude awakening when you find out what (probably) happened. Looks a lot like a 10-8-10 boost pattern to me! And uh, stock turbo's don't climb past 6k rpm like that See how at the end of the dyno chart, it jumps? Nahh, that's an FD

 

You half to remember 30 % of the people on this forum don't even own a rx7.

Building power is very easy on a turbo second gen.
First you unbolt the stock turbo and throw it in the trash. Then you get a full to4, ems, fuel, & tuning and the sky is the limit. As soon as you stop bullshitting yourself and unbolting stop crap your more than half way there.

 

Almost everyone on this forum that commented on my dyno graph, including Ted, are not that familiar with how Dynapack dynos load engines. To answer Karack's question, there was a silver FD that was on the dyno hours before me that blew its engine on its first pull while boosting only 5 or 6 psi. Steve Kan didn't call me BS and he was there watching. If Mazda made a twin turbo in 1987, then I guess I'm caught. You have caught on to me, this is what I do, I go around spreading lies and carrying this fake dyno sheet around with me.

 

Were you able to measure that comp wheel?
I have a suspision it's not stock.
Those handwritten letters is not what you typically see on a stock Hitachi HT-18 compressor wheel.
The thing about your car is that I dunno how is running that low a boost with your mods (i.e. big exhaust) - the car should be running more like 12psi?
Is the dyno loading the car that funny to have such low boost levels?

BDC's old partner Hassan Malik(?) claimed he did 265 at the wheels on a DynoJet with the stock block and the stock turbo with Haltech.
His FC was running an FMIC though...


-Ted

 

I find your replies total bullshit.

How much more boost are we talking here above 12psi?
Can you hit those numbers at 15psi with pump gas?

I tell you what...
We start out with a stock block...you build the motor in front of my eyes.
We get the engine on a dyno, and I want to see you hit 300 at the wheels.
If you do so, I pay for everything.
If you don't, you pay for my trip, expenses, and my time off from work for hauling my sorry *** out there?


-Ted