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Most definite ECU problem

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Old 02-14-04, 12:09 PM
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Most definite ECU problem

Okay..I now there's a bunch of guys out there with the schematics to the ECU...

Any of you guys now what system resistors 941 and 951 feed into?

Cause, I gotta tell you, I just toasted my second ECU in a row, and the same damn parts blew.

And if one of you bright boys out there know where that goes, it'll save me some time and frustration.

Please? Help?
Old 02-14-04, 12:24 PM
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R951 is connected to pin S, the port air solenoid valve. (See page 13 of the schematics I posted.)

R941 is connected to pin F, the air conditioning main relay. (See page 15 of the schematics I posted.)



Note: This assumes you have the same ECU as me. (N326)
Old 02-14-04, 12:26 PM
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Double post

Last edited by theloudroom; 02-14-04 at 12:29 PM.
Old 02-14-04, 12:57 PM
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Hey, thanks.

And yes, that is indeed the model # of my ECU.

I'll get right on those things.
Old 02-14-04, 03:58 PM
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Let me know how it turns out.

Good luck.
Old 02-14-04, 04:39 PM
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Not an ECU problem, but a burnt air port soleniode valve problem.
Old 02-14-04, 07:58 PM
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WEll, that would be the implication, but as the problem turned up in the ECU and I didn't know what the resistors lead to, I naturally assumed that the problem was in the ECU. Pardon me, I was wrong...I'm not exactly a car mechanic. The most difficult thing I've done to my car consists of replacing the door handles when they bust (stupid frickin zinc pieces of...), and replacing the pulsation damper when it burst.

I'll probably just yank the damn thing and slap a blank plate over it, as I've been assured that that particular piece is either redundant or completely unnecessary altogether. I'll probably pull the AC out as well..it only hits 125 in the summer, no need to use the AC...
Old 02-14-04, 11:33 PM
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If you're gonna junk those ECU's I'll pay you whatever it costs you to ship them to me instead.
Old 02-15-04, 12:15 AM
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Originally posted by FallenDruid
WEll, that would be the implication, but as the problem turned up in the ECU and I didn't know what the resistors lead to, I naturally assumed that the problem was in the ECU. Pardon me, I was wrong...I'm not exactly a car mechanic. The most difficult thing I've done to my car consists of replacing the door handles when they bust (stupid frickin zinc pieces of...), and replacing the pulsation damper when it burst.

I'll probably just yank the damn thing and slap a blank plate over it, as I've been assured that that particular piece is either redundant or completely unnecessary altogether. I'll probably pull the AC out as well..it only hits 125 in the summer, no need to use the AC...
you probably also have a burnt harness at the ACV.

The air control valve is part of the emissons system as well as part of the anti-burn system. Removing it, will result in your cats burning out and backfires (most often on lift throttle situations.

Now if you don't care about those things and you don't have emissions controls in your area and you are not worried that you'll be breaking federal laws, then by all means remove the ACV.

And personally I wouldn't want to drive in even 95 degree temps without air condition... but to each their own.
Old 02-15-04, 06:57 AM
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Howdy there. The Port Air solenoid is/was used only during the FIRST 20,000 miles of the car (see fsm). After you rack up 20,000 miles it will not be energized again...........until you hit 100,000 miles.....then it'll werk again til you hit 120, 000 miles and its disabled once more. That be a true blue fact. So leave the poor acv in place and motor on.
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