2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Moroso Oil Pan

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Old 04-22-09, 08:39 PM
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GxL/T2

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Cool Moroso Oil Pan

Has anyone here used an Moroso Oil Pan on their 13B? I'm contemplating about it... if so which one? here are the links
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=12119 & http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?CatCode=11116
Old 04-22-09, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Morondongon
Has anyone here used an Moroso Oil Pan on their 13B? I'm contemplating about it... if so which one? here are the links
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=12119 & http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?CatCode=11116
Why do you need an aftermarket oil pan? Are you having some type of oil related problem? Please post more info about your setup, problems, and goals. Thanks!
Old 04-22-09, 09:48 PM
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Listen to King Diamond.

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Do any of them have a provision for the passenger side engine mount? Can't really tell from the pics...


EDIT: did you catch the fine print? Doesn't look like they're meant for FCs.

1st one:
Fits Mazda 13B Rotary Engines used in Mazda RX-3 & RX-4 models; several rotary engine conversions including 1981-84 Toyota Starlet, 1964-83 Toyota Corolla, 1971-73 Datsun 1200 & others with little or no crossmember modifications; also tube chassis cars
2nd one:
Fits 1974-85 Mazda 13B Rotary Engines used in tube chassis cars and other cars without a crossmember located under engine (check dimensions for clearance)
Old 04-22-09, 10:27 PM
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The pineapple one is probably a better choice.

http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...ROD&ProdID=106
Old 04-22-09, 10:30 PM
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" The key is to keep the crankshaft free of excess oil which allows the engine to spin freely and achieve its full power potential."




Yeah.
Old 04-22-09, 10:31 PM
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The Moroso's are meant for the old school 13b's (engine mounts on the front cover) and will not fit the later models. The Pineapple pans are NICE.

~Mike...........
Old 04-22-09, 11:26 PM
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I don't have any problems with my current pan, but I had read a thread a while back about an engine brace that helps reduce the flex in the engine and the drip around the pan. Reason for my question is am going for a bigger turbo in the next few weeks and want to get the most power from it with the least stress. My goal for now is 450.
Old 04-22-09, 11:54 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Gene
The pineapple one is probably a better choice.

http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...ROD&ProdID=106
I'm going to e-mail them to get more info. It says that you will use one more quart than the stock. I'm wondering if it helps reduce the engine flex?
Old 04-23-09, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Morondongon
I'm going to e-mail them to get more info. It says that you will use one more quart than the stock. I'm wondering if it helps reduce the engine flex?
Are you experiencing engine flex? If so, how do you know?
Old 04-23-09, 11:47 PM
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Am sure that there is engine flex there, naturally. I wouldn't know how to tell, but if you know how to tell please share... Basically I want to get the most performance from my motor...
Old 04-26-09, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Morondongon
Am sure that there is engine flex there, naturally. I wouldn't know how to tell, but if you know how to tell please share... Basically I want to get the most performance from my motor...
You don't need the oil pan. From what I understand you think you need it because somehow the extra thick flange on the moroso that mates to the engine will prevent the engine from twisting so much that the oil pan seal breaks and spills oil everywhere.

Every part of your car moves. The torque bending force exerted by the engine on the oil pan is of such small magnitude in comparison to the sealing capacity of the oil pan that you should really research improving other aspects of your car such as suspension.
Old 04-26-09, 10:02 AM
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if you got the money and are trying to make the engine bulletproof it wont hurt at all... go ahead and dowel pin the engine as well... if you are doing a rebuild and everything is apart now is the time to get all that done.
Old 04-26-09, 08:56 PM
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If you want the most performance and reliably for your money try buying a car that's not 20+ years old and uses pistons. If you want something that is unique stick with the rotary but remember, torque wins races.
Old 04-26-09, 09:18 PM
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Hey OP i don't believe you need to concern yourself to much about your 13b suffering from bad engine flex. While its true that engine flex occurs its very minuscule , unless you see bad oil leaks in the landing surface of the oil pan you don't need to worry. Now if you find comfort knowing that leaking can be prevented in the future. Then this is what you need, not an entirely new oil pan.

Refer to http://www.banzai-racing.com/


Now if your worried about oil starvation and you want better lubrication/oil pressure/ and oil control a new pan or dry sump will be a good investment.
Old 04-26-09, 09:25 PM
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I am exremely sceptical that the oil pan "brace" can make any measurable difference to engine flex. I can buy that it could potentially help with sealing, but untill I see PROOF of a measurable reduction in engine flex, I'd consider that claim to be 100% marketing BS.
Old 04-27-09, 07:32 AM
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I have some red shoes that keep elephants away. I've been wearing them for almost a year now and I've never seen an elephant. They work great! I recommend everyone get a pair.
Old 04-27-09, 12:18 PM
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^ROFL

Black91n/a i totally know what you mean, while i said it before there is engine flex but i doubt that its a issue that rotary suffers from that needs attention. The banzai unit, while it looks like it does have better oil sealing features around the pan surface i don't see how it further prevents engine flex. Now if it were like a sandwich plate, where the first unit is a bar that runs within the engine (labeled in red) then next is the oilpan, then the banzai pan brace. If worked like that then yes i could see where flexing might be toned down a bit around that area.
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