More strange things... electrical issues continue.
08-24-11, 02:21 AM
#1
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Modesto, ca
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
More strange things... electrical issues continue.
I have been checking wires, and cleaning grounds, trying to eliminate my issues, but...
I had the battery still in the car, terminals still connected to the posts, while battery was on charger. it was fluctuating on and off, like it was surging or something. I pulled it off the charger, and thats when I cleaned all the grounds in the engine bay. The ecu ground on the intake, the engine strap ground on the firewall, double checked the starter wires, and the one on the driver's side shock tower, and the bundle under the trailing coil, for the in dash stuff.
I put it back on the charger, and it seemed to fix the odd fluctuating problem from the charger. I left it on there for a bit, and then a while later, I went back out to see if I had somehow magically cured the issue with my fuses blowing and the car not starting, so I went to try and start the car. The fuses blew again, the starter only spun for a second, and then stopped.
got out of the car, checked grounds to see if they were burned or something, but they looked fine. I flicked the headlights on, and then they died, and then the alternator starting smoking....
it only smoked briefly. The fuses that keep blowing are the 7.5 amp room fuse, the 10 amp hazard fuse, and the 10 amp sunroof fuse.
Possible bad ignition switch?
I had the battery still in the car, terminals still connected to the posts, while battery was on charger. it was fluctuating on and off, like it was surging or something. I pulled it off the charger, and thats when I cleaned all the grounds in the engine bay. The ecu ground on the intake, the engine strap ground on the firewall, double checked the starter wires, and the one on the driver's side shock tower, and the bundle under the trailing coil, for the in dash stuff.
I put it back on the charger, and it seemed to fix the odd fluctuating problem from the charger. I left it on there for a bit, and then a while later, I went back out to see if I had somehow magically cured the issue with my fuses blowing and the car not starting, so I went to try and start the car. The fuses blew again, the starter only spun for a second, and then stopped.
got out of the car, checked grounds to see if they were burned or something, but they looked fine. I flicked the headlights on, and then they died, and then the alternator starting smoking....
it only smoked briefly. The fuses that keep blowing are the 7.5 amp room fuse, the 10 amp hazard fuse, and the 10 amp sunroof fuse.
Possible bad ignition switch?
08-25-11, 07:07 PM
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Amherst, Massachusetts
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would be most worried about charging your battery while it is connected to the car. Some battery chargers are quite cheap and could cause some electrical mayhem to occur. I remember one actually boiling the electrolyte in a battery I had.
I would take the alternator out of the car and get it checked out at autozone or something. Smoke is not good here. Also I'd check all of the fuses on the car and make sure they are of the appropriate amperage.
I would take the alternator out of the car and get it checked out at autozone or something. Smoke is not good here. Also I'd check all of the fuses on the car and make sure they are of the appropriate amperage.
08-25-11, 08:33 PM
#4
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,841
Received 510 Likes
on
345 Posts
Firstly, nothing will MAGICALLY cure anything...
I have three questions before I can help you.
1.) Has any major work been done to the car involving removal of a major component like the dashboard, transmission, or engine?
Such removal and subsequent reinstallation can pinch or cut wiring harnesses which will cause nightmares.
2.) Do you own a multi-meter and do you know how to use it?
3.) Can you follow a wiring diagram?
I'm studying the FSM wiring diagram... In the mean time, report back.
I have three questions before I can help you.
1.) Has any major work been done to the car involving removal of a major component like the dashboard, transmission, or engine?
Such removal and subsequent reinstallation can pinch or cut wiring harnesses which will cause nightmares.
2.) Do you own a multi-meter and do you know how to use it?
3.) Can you follow a wiring diagram?
I'm studying the FSM wiring diagram... In the mean time, report back.
08-28-11, 09:26 PM
#5
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Modesto, ca
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I pulled engine and trans, but was very nervous when I put it all in, so I was INCREDIBLY careful. I HIGHLY doubt I pinched anything. HIGHLY doubt it. Yes, I have a multi meter, yes I can use it. Not for the life of me, can I follow a wiring diagram. I tried studying the fsm for a few days, and got nothing but mad at it.
08-29-11, 03:54 AM
#6
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,841
Received 510 Likes
on
345 Posts
^
Okay... That lets me know what I'm working with.
In the mean time, pull both the battery and the alternator and have them tested at a local parts store.
If the alternator smoked, the regulator is most likely toast. It may have taken out something else in the process.
What type of battery charger are you using? I have one of those "intelligent" microprocessor controlled ones that will click on and off when the load changes... This could have been due to something in your car's electrical system. It could also have been due to the battery being sulfated (From sitting around too long while discharged.) Load testing the battery will determine if this is the case, but will still not tell us why your fuses are blowing.
In the future, do not work on major parts of the car's electrical system like main ground points with the battery connected.
Okay... That lets me know what I'm working with.
In the mean time, pull both the battery and the alternator and have them tested at a local parts store.
If the alternator smoked, the regulator is most likely toast. It may have taken out something else in the process.
What type of battery charger are you using? I have one of those "intelligent" microprocessor controlled ones that will click on and off when the load changes... This could have been due to something in your car's electrical system. It could also have been due to the battery being sulfated (From sitting around too long while discharged.) Load testing the battery will determine if this is the case, but will still not tell us why your fuses are blowing.
In the future, do not work on major parts of the car's electrical system like main ground points with the battery connected.
08-29-11, 06:29 AM
#7
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,841
Received 510 Likes
on
345 Posts
Firstly, in this posting, I'm assuming we're dealing with the 1990 GXL you have listed in your profile. If not, please list the Year and trim of your car.
I'm also assuming it's 100% stock... If you've added anything electrical, please list it as well.
More studying of the electrical system shows that the fuses come AFTER the ignition switch. Therefore, the ignition switch should not be suspect at this time... Further more, the ROOM and HAZARD fuses are not fed through the ignition switch at all. Their feed comes from the BTN fusible link in the engine bay fuse block.
The Sunroof fuse is fed from the ignition switch and also feeds power to either the ABS or Airbags in addition to the sunroof. Do you have either of these items in your car?
The Hazard fuse feeds only the turn signal/hazard switch unit.
The Room fuse feeds a LOT of stuff, but it's probably just for memory retention in a lot of these... It feeds:
-The ECU
-The Clock/Idiot cluster
-The Radio
-The beeper in the CPU
-All interior courtesy lamps
Do all of your fuses blow as soon as you connect the battery? Or do they blow when you put the key in and turn it on?
I'm also assuming it's 100% stock... If you've added anything electrical, please list it as well.
More studying of the electrical system shows that the fuses come AFTER the ignition switch. Therefore, the ignition switch should not be suspect at this time... Further more, the ROOM and HAZARD fuses are not fed through the ignition switch at all. Their feed comes from the BTN fusible link in the engine bay fuse block.
The Sunroof fuse is fed from the ignition switch and also feeds power to either the ABS or Airbags in addition to the sunroof. Do you have either of these items in your car?
The Hazard fuse feeds only the turn signal/hazard switch unit.
The Room fuse feeds a LOT of stuff, but it's probably just for memory retention in a lot of these... It feeds:
-The ECU
-The Clock/Idiot cluster
-The Radio
-The beeper in the CPU
-All interior courtesy lamps
Do all of your fuses blow as soon as you connect the battery? Or do they blow when you put the key in and turn it on?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post