well my rebuilt engine runs decently now, with the eception of massive oil loss. this thing smokes enough to get the fire department nervous at startup. it smokes an amazing ammount untill it is warm, then usually stops smoking all together and puffs pretty good when i step on it. i put 300 miles on the engine so far and after i worked out other little problems it ran very well. so i guess there is an oil controll ring gone on this motor, but i'm not sure. I'll probly pull it and take it apart on friday unless i get some more ideas.
so my main questions are:
1. what could cause this much smoke and oil loss besides oil controll rings (if anything)?

2. why does it smoke crazily at startup then stop smoking when warm?

3. if i started with a shortblock, could i have done anything to screw it up involving oil pump, front cover, OMP, ect.?

4. if oil controll rings are blown/ missing, would the oil press. still read 60 psi? (the oil pressure is better than my last engine before it blew)

Thanks for any and all advice.

 

BTW, its an S5 N/A

 

DAMN MAN!!!! that sucks *****, i hate to say it but you must have felt like crap after seeing that....i know i would have with me thinking i screwed something up and after i put all that time into it...anyway i think that maybe your right....i couldent think of anything else other then the engine getting to much fuel?? i guess....cause my 87 n/a doesent smoke at start upbut when i rev it up a little it smokes to an extent....but not enough to cause a panic....and i think that when after it warms up the rotors are compressed and ready to go so thats probably why it stops after awhile....damn i wish i knew....but if i would have to guess then i would agree with you....

sorry to hear that this happend....but you know what they say practice makes perfect....that and i would love to rebuild a rotary, soon though..soon

:AA:

 

the cats are cleaning up the smoke when its warm, what did you replace in the last engine rebuild? did the last engine die smoking and using lots of oil? did it do the same thing?
If so you might just have alot of oil residue from the previous engine. Give Dan a call at the shop and he might be able to help ya. 253-848-7776

 

Do you have a cat in it? Here is a vid of my freind's car with no cats and it smokes like hell.

http://videos.streetfire.net/player....5-B572C762D9A2

 

yeah, what did you replace?

 

oil residue would have burned off after 30 minutes or so not 300+ miles.

sounds like a cut oil control o-ring. did they seem fairly tight going into the rotor?

if you put the oil control o-ring springs in backwards too it will cause premature o-ring failure and this problem as well.

 

oh, sorry for the confusion. i typed my first post at midnight. anyway, no i did not rebuild the engine myself and have no idea what it look like inside. i bought it from a guy in shortblock form and it had 0 miles on it. the guy said he bought it for his car and got rid of the car and never needed it. I'm sure it is running a little rich but it's doing a hell of alot of smokeing, also the oil level is dropping rapidly. Would the oil pressure still be high if an oil ring was blown?

 

Yes, the oil pressure would be normal if the rotor oil o-rings are damaged. It sound like they were pinched, nicked or otherwise broken when it was rebuilt, or the metal o-ring carriers were severely worn or damaged and not replaced. Another possibilty is that they ported into the oil ring area if there was porting done...Only way to be sure is to tear the engine down. Although if you're good sometimes from the intake ports you can get a view and see if they ported too far.

 

this is interesting advise... i did not think of the porting issue but that makes sense. i am not even sure of the engine is ported or not. also, you mention the o-rings and the o-ring carriers. the o-ring carriers are the meatal rings with the grove on the inside right? is the o-ring itsself the rubber peace that goes inside the grove? and as far as the ports go... i'm going to take the engine apart anyway so i'll use the side iors off my last engine if thats the case.
thanks, Philip

 

That is correct. The o-rings are two parts: the carrier and the rubber o-ring. It can be common practice for many builders to just replace the rubber o-ring since the carriers are kind of expensive. If they are too worn, then you get smoke.

 

oh, how do you tell if the carrier is too worn? go i guess one way to screw up would be to forget the rubber peace inside of the carrier.

 

i'll post more pics if there is porting done

 

Measurements are in the manuals. Also the edges should be sharp like piston rings. Worn carriers have rounded edges or are broken.

 

k thanks! my engine went from running to hanging from an engine hoist in 3 hrs! i'm proud, the first time it took about 3 days.

 

Pay close attention to the rotational direction and orientation (which side is out) of the oil control springs. These are designed to retain the oil control rings and not allow them to spin in the rotor. The flat edge must lock into the ring and the rounded edge into the rotor. They are color coded and the manual explains how to install them.

Justin

 

so.... did that rebuild cost 100 in labor?????????????????????

 

100? where do you get that? i get not rebuild it myself yet. i got a core, had oil problems and am now rebuilding the new core myself. i've paid nothing in labor so far