Mods for better HP ?
#1
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Mods for better HP ?
Hey guys......i've just just wondering if any of you can shead some light on how to increase some HP for the 88 TII ? I current have a cat exhaust and a intake. Thats bout it. But not really feeling it as much as I would like to. I'm only looking for around 50 HP more or less, so a bigger turbo is really not what i'm looking for.
Any sugguestions ?
Any sugguestions ?
#2
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Frount mount intercooler and boost the turbo. Thats it youll get at least 50 hp increase.Boost the turbo with the intercooler to around 14 psi. Before you do that make sure you put an aftermarket ecu such as an haltech or microtech.
#3
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Well I wouldnt go with a front mount and standalone computer with a stock turbo.
Here are the mods I would do:
Replace TID (turbo inlet duct) with metal piping (either custom or from Chris Sanders (I think he sells it)). $50-$150
Replace air filter with K&N $30
Replace downpipe with ThunderFabrications piece if you dont have to worry about emissions, if you do have to worry about emissions, replace it with a downpipe that will connect to your main cat. $200
Replace catback exhaust with a free-er flowing unit $400
Replace fuel pressure regulator with SX adjustable Rising Rate regulator. Also re route your fuel lines so you are running the rails in parallel. Up the pressure some. $200
Replace fuel pump with FD pump. $40
Use an S-AFC to control your stock injectors $325
Port your wastegate. (free)
Buy a boost controller and raise boost to 12 psi $50-$250
Buy a FCD $65.
Get A/F and boost gauges $100
Youll probably have to buy another couple hundred dollars of items to get the car how you like it (interior, exterior, and engine items).
That right there is about all you can do without starting to spend some serious money (like $1000 each for a new turbo, fuel computer, and front mount intercooler).
With that setup you should be good for 250 rwhp, probably more, and a low 13 1/4 mile time.
Chris
Here are the mods I would do:
Replace TID (turbo inlet duct) with metal piping (either custom or from Chris Sanders (I think he sells it)). $50-$150
Replace air filter with K&N $30
Replace downpipe with ThunderFabrications piece if you dont have to worry about emissions, if you do have to worry about emissions, replace it with a downpipe that will connect to your main cat. $200
Replace catback exhaust with a free-er flowing unit $400
Replace fuel pressure regulator with SX adjustable Rising Rate regulator. Also re route your fuel lines so you are running the rails in parallel. Up the pressure some. $200
Replace fuel pump with FD pump. $40
Use an S-AFC to control your stock injectors $325
Port your wastegate. (free)
Buy a boost controller and raise boost to 12 psi $50-$250
Buy a FCD $65.
Get A/F and boost gauges $100
Youll probably have to buy another couple hundred dollars of items to get the car how you like it (interior, exterior, and engine items).
That right there is about all you can do without starting to spend some serious money (like $1000 each for a new turbo, fuel computer, and front mount intercooler).
With that setup you should be good for 250 rwhp, probably more, and a low 13 1/4 mile time.
Chris
#4
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I agree with some suggestions here, but i definitely DO NOT AGREE with the FCD being the second-last on the list.
An FCD should be your FIRST MOD, along with a proper boost gauge.
A/F gauges are useless as hell if you don't have an EGT gauge to go with it.
An FCD should be your FIRST MOD, along with a proper boost gauge.
A/F gauges are useless as hell if you don't have an EGT gauge to go with it.
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#8
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Don't screw around with piggybacks.
By the time you get an S-AFC and an FCD and an MSD setup to retard timing so you don't kill your motor, you're well on your way to a standalone (LT8 at a minimum, E6K if you like spending money ). In concert with four 720cc injectors and a walbro 255 lph pump, you'll have a solid foundation for any mods you'll ever do to the car with the stock turbo (and you will have the support necessary for more injector should you upgrade that, too).
Brandon
BR7 Racing
By the time you get an S-AFC and an FCD and an MSD setup to retard timing so you don't kill your motor, you're well on your way to a standalone (LT8 at a minimum, E6K if you like spending money ). In concert with four 720cc injectors and a walbro 255 lph pump, you'll have a solid foundation for any mods you'll ever do to the car with the stock turbo (and you will have the support necessary for more injector should you upgrade that, too).
Brandon
BR7 Racing
#9
Don't screw around with piggybacks.
By the time you get an S-AFC and an FCD and an MSD setup to retard timing so you don't kill your motor, you're well on your way to a standalone (LT8 at a minimum, E6K if you like spending money ). In concert with four 720cc injectors and a walbro 255 lph pump, you'll have a solid foundation for any mods you'll ever do to the car with the stock turbo (and you will have the support necessary for more injector should you upgrade that, too).
By the time you get an S-AFC and an FCD and an MSD setup to retard timing so you don't kill your motor, you're well on your way to a standalone (LT8 at a minimum, E6K if you like spending money ). In concert with four 720cc injectors and a walbro 255 lph pump, you'll have a solid foundation for any mods you'll ever do to the car with the stock turbo (and you will have the support necessary for more injector should you upgrade that, too).
If he's just looking for 50 more hp I'd say that's 230-235 rwhp. I made that with the stock ECU @ 10-11 pounds of boost and my a/f numbers were still in the mid 11's!!!
My recipe for a solid and safe 235 rwhp
3'' TID/cone filter (open vent stock bov with one way check valve)
3'' thunderfabrications dp/mp
apexi n1 single
boost controller - mbc or an old school HKS EVCI will work just fine.
Walbro 255 (re wire just to be safe)
FCD
680cc secondaries from gsl-se
safc wired via the boost sensor instead of TPS dependent.
Yes the lt8 is a sweet setup, but for some people it's just not going to be worth it, especially if they just can't plop down the extra dough.
#10
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TID + full 3" exhaust? With that setup, he'll be spiking to 10 psi before 3800 RPM. He'll be trying to hold 10 psi at 3500 RPM on 60% duty cycle on the stock primaries.
Sounds like a recipe for a blown motor on the first cold day he stomps it in 5th gear.
But yeah, I am biased.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
Sounds like a recipe for a blown motor on the first cold day he stomps it in 5th gear.
But yeah, I am biased.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
#11
ok jackass I assumed porting the living **** out of your wastegate would be a given
But really on the stock s4 turbo with full intake and exhuast I can run as low as .5bar of boost thanks to a monsterly ported wastegate. I didn't even go over the flap, just right under the stock flap. I did backcut the passage pretty well so the exhuast gas doesn't have to make two 90 degree turns anymore
But really on the stock s4 turbo with full intake and exhuast I can run as low as .5bar of boost thanks to a monsterly ported wastegate. I didn't even go over the flap, just right under the stock flap. I did backcut the passage pretty well so the exhuast gas doesn't have to make two 90 degree turns anymore
#12
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Well, you can run .5 bar, but the risk is still there, and you still lack a solid foundation for future modifications. That's my point. I'm a big advocate of Doing It Right from the beginning.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
Brandon
BR7 Racing
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