Modifying NA Harness for Turbo?
#1
I blame the TPS
Thread Starter
Modifying NA Harness for Turbo?
I'm doing a turbo swap in my '88 and I'm going to use the stock wiring harness. I'm told with a little bit of modifications it will work fine with my Turbo engine. What do I have to change to make it work. And yes I did try searching for this answer.
#2
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
IIRC, that technique only works for S5s, which all use the same connectors.
On S4 cars, the Turbo and Non-Turbo harness uses totally different connectors, so you have to get the turbo harness.
(I think...)
On S4 cars, the Turbo and Non-Turbo harness uses totally different connectors, so you have to get the turbo harness.
(I think...)
#3
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for my s5 the only thing i had to do was make the tps sensor plug 6 inches longer, you will no longer have a knock sensor but the technology on it is so old it doesnt matter, (invest in a wideband to check accurate a/f ratio for detonation)
#4
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#5
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Copied from NZConvertible:
If you're using an S4 TII ECU on an NA harness there are only two wires to sort out.
Pin 1R (LG/B wire) is the knock control unit on Turbos and the power steering pressure switch on NA's. If you're installing the Turbo knock control unit you'll need to cut the wire ~6" from the ECU connector and extend the connector side to where you've installed the knock control unit (which also needs power and ground connections). If you're not installing the knock control unit and you have power steering you'll need to cut the wire anyway, otherwise every time you turned the wheel the ECU would get what it thinks is a knock signal and retard the ignition timing.
Pin 2K (L/B wire) is the twin-scroll solenoid valve on turbos and the split air solenoid valve on NA's. If you're keeping the twin-scroll control system operative you'll need to connect the split air solenoid valve connector to the twin-scroll solenoid valve. If you're not keeping the system operative you can leave it disconnected.
/end quote
You suck at searching, dude.
(I hadn't actually heard of anyone using this technique on S4s, so I assumed the connectors weren't compatible)
If you're using an S4 TII ECU on an NA harness there are only two wires to sort out.
Pin 1R (LG/B wire) is the knock control unit on Turbos and the power steering pressure switch on NA's. If you're installing the Turbo knock control unit you'll need to cut the wire ~6" from the ECU connector and extend the connector side to where you've installed the knock control unit (which also needs power and ground connections). If you're not installing the knock control unit and you have power steering you'll need to cut the wire anyway, otherwise every time you turned the wheel the ECU would get what it thinks is a knock signal and retard the ignition timing.
Pin 2K (L/B wire) is the twin-scroll solenoid valve on turbos and the split air solenoid valve on NA's. If you're keeping the twin-scroll control system operative you'll need to connect the split air solenoid valve connector to the twin-scroll solenoid valve. If you're not keeping the system operative you can leave it disconnected.
/end quote
You suck at searching, dude.
(I hadn't actually heard of anyone using this technique on S4s, so I assumed the connectors weren't compatible)
#7
HAILERS
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Copied from NZConvertible:
If you're using an S4 TII ECU on an NA harness there are only two wires to sort out.
Pin 1R (LG/B wire) is the knock control unit on Turbos and the power steering pressure switch on NA's. If you're installing the Turbo knock control unit you'll need to cut the wire ~6" from the ECU connector and extend the connector side to where you've installed the knock control unit (which also needs power and ground connections). If you're not installing the knock control unit and you have power steering you'll need to cut the wire anyway, otherwise every time you turned the wheel the ECU would get what it thinks is a knock signal and retard the ignition timing.
Pin 2K (L/B wire) is the twin-scroll solenoid valve on turbos and the split air solenoid valve on NA's. If you're keeping the twin-scroll control system operative you'll need to connect the split air solenoid valve connector to the twin-scroll solenoid valve. If you're not keeping the system operative you can leave it disconnected.
/end quote
You suck at searching, dude.
(I hadn't actually heard of anyone using this technique on S4s, so I assumed the connectors weren't compatible)
If you're using an S4 TII ECU on an NA harness there are only two wires to sort out.
Pin 1R (LG/B wire) is the knock control unit on Turbos and the power steering pressure switch on NA's. If you're installing the Turbo knock control unit you'll need to cut the wire ~6" from the ECU connector and extend the connector side to where you've installed the knock control unit (which also needs power and ground connections). If you're not installing the knock control unit and you have power steering you'll need to cut the wire anyway, otherwise every time you turned the wheel the ECU would get what it thinks is a knock signal and retard the ignition timing.
Pin 2K (L/B wire) is the twin-scroll solenoid valve on turbos and the split air solenoid valve on NA's. If you're keeping the twin-scroll control system operative you'll need to connect the split air solenoid valve connector to the twin-scroll solenoid valve. If you're not keeping the system operative you can leave it disconnected.
/end quote
You suck at searching, dude.
(I hadn't actually heard of anyone using this technique on S4s, so I assumed the connectors weren't compatible)
Good info. I'll have to try to remember all that stuff.
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#8
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thank you
please dont post info about something unless your 100% sure or have a personal experiance, if it was up to a few peoples opinions this poor guy would've went and spent 100 bux on a harness when he could've used it for a downpipe or ecu
please dont post info about something unless your 100% sure or have a personal experiance, if it was up to a few peoples opinions this poor guy would've went and spent 100 bux on a harness when he could've used it for a downpipe or ecu
Last edited by calio64; 01-10-08 at 05:49 PM. Reason: s
#10
I blame the TPS
Thread Starter
Thanks lots guys. I knew it was some simple stuff I had to do to make it work, I just couldn't remember what. Thats the last step in firing this TII engine Oh funny story... When I bought the car we couldn't figure out why it would not run right, anyway we checked the ECU finally and it said N333. (turbo!) no wonder it would run rough on turns lol
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