Ok, I have an 88 TII with a 90 engine in it. Now the car has never run with the engine in it til now because I blew the last one.So I decided to go microtech LT8 an I also added a 3in downnpipe that connects to an apexi GT-Spec exhaust, with an apexi intake, and blitz BOV. So I have everything in an it will only start if I push it down a hill an drop it into second, but it runs very slugish and has no pull to it. It boosts about 5-6psi but still with no pull. If the rpms go below 2000 it get very shaky then dies. Now I think its a timming issue but since the car dosent idle I cant use the timing light unless you know of another way. I have tried to repoke the CAS with no luck. I'm also running a premix ratio of 170:1 with no oil metering pump.Any thoughts?

 

who tuned the microtech?....

 

Just curious, how'd you set the idle, and did have you calibrated the TPS in the software?

 

how do you get it back up the hill?

 

it's 128:1 premix isn't it?

And wrong forum...

 

Did you do a compression check??
Is this a rebuilt engine???
When I rebuilt mine, I couldn't hold an idle untill I had about 200 km's on it. There was no was in hell I could get it started without a push for about 200km's as well...
Now, 1100 km's later, it's much easier to start (still have to pump the gas) and it idles fine.
WHat your describing sounds textbook to a rebuild with a few re-used seals...
It can take up to 3000 or more km's to realize full compression sometimes.

If you are positive it isn't a tuning or sensor issue, I'd just run it for a couple hundred KM's (fill up on gas, get comfy, and grab your cell phone and a chain, just in case!)
If it doesn't idle by then, then it's not the engine.. it's tuning.

 

Where did you tap Into for the MAP Vaccum Signal?

The vacuum line, running from the ECU to the Engine Bay, should have an uninterrupted source at the bottom (of the 3 nipples), front Upper Intake Manifold. That source comes right from the back of the throttle plates, and will result in the best response, as well as minimise erratic readings from intake manifold pressure waves.

 

Alright the microtech has not yet been tuned until I get the car running well, an I calibrated the TPS the exact way the microtech mannuel described. Well a couple friends and I would ave to push it up this small hill. Well I'm running a 170:1 premix and I posted in this forum because I was not getting much reponse in the other forums.It sounds like the compression is great an its an engine I bought from some jspec import place online an it suppose to have 30-50,000 miles on it, and I would drive it around for awhile but it has no real pull when I gas it, has alittle trouble with hills. I think it may be the timing but I will move the map vaccum hose from the space next to the BAC valve to the place next to the throttle body. Any thing other thoughts?

 

do a compression check.

 

My Jspec was doing the exact same thing, It took 2 hours to get it to start and now that it does it won't run for shi% below 2000-2500 rpms, and I found it to be a big vacuum leak from where I had to reinstall the UIM after wiring up the harness and hooking up the vacuum lines. Check for a vacuum leak before doing crazy stuff, I just found mine by blowing compressed air into the large banjo bolted on nipple at the pass. side of the UIM, when I blew air into it I could hear the leak plain as day.

Good luck.

 

Which part is the banjo on the UIM?An would spraying carb cleaner on all the vaccum areas and looking for the tach to jump be the same thing?

 

hey... make sure your injector connectors on the wiring harness are connected to the right injectors. I had a similar problem... although it was on the stock ecu.

 

Not exactly a bonjo bolt but a bolted on vacuum line at the rear left corner of the UIM it faces upward.

 

Alright, I removed the BAC valve, checked for a vaccum leak as described above, and cleaned off the plugs again, only to find that the #1 ritors plugs were covered in burnt fuel, while the #2 rotor has some cleaner plugs. I also check all my plugs for spark and they are all fine. The car starts up everytime but idles really rough then just dies even if I try to pump the gas. Then the error light comes on an its says it an rpm error?

 

you may have to tune it in order to get it running well perhaps?? did you just plug it up out of the box?

 

yeh but its suppose to be set to factory settings and run out of the box, but take it to a dyno for best performance. everyone I've talked to has said,"no need for dyno til you get it running."

 

Sounds to me to be a problem with your CAS or something if your getting an RPM code.

How is the connection from the ECU to the CAS? is it using shielded cable?

 

Yeh, alot of people are telling me this but I tried many different ways of connecting the 4 sheilded wires to the cas. I've soldered wires, bought new pins and directlty conneceted to the pins in the plug, but I only seem to get the error when I try to start it. When I compression start it though I do not get that error until it just idles out. I have even tried using another cas I have but with the same results.