Yup,

Well, after two long weeks the system is finally in. I am currently running an LT-8 system on a base map. While the car was under construction i also managed to get S5 lower, middle and Upper intake manifold setup. Portmatched and polished all the manifolds, installed 550cc secondary's , completed the TB mod, removed the 5th & 6th sleeves, die-grinded the rear iron to make room for the S5 intake setup, And wired open the VDI.

Impressions: Definatly a power increase. Idle is rock solid even though all emissions/smooth idle equipment have been removed. Throttle response is now instant! I still have to play around with my intake (filter) setup. It's temporarily bolted directly to my TB elbow , becuase it all we could think of at the time and we had been working for 8 strait hours building the manifolds, porting, completing a wire harness ect..ect..

The Microtech is a dream come true. mostly plug and play, I had to splice a few plugs from my old harness. Once the system was bolted in and everything checked out ok, we turned the ignition and BOOM! cranked and ran very smooth on a base map. Becuase i'm running 550cc's up top i had Scott pull a little fuel out, but she's still alittle rich in the upper Rpms. Next week will be the dyno/tuning day to see if we can pull another 10-12 HP from a good "tune"

The new (er) intake manifolds are also nice, i can feel the car pull much harder from around 4000 rpm all the way up to my LT-8 set redline (8250 rpm)

Overall : Removing the restrictive AFM is one of the best ways to gain HP on an N/A motor. You've got all this air trying to rush into a little box with a flapper door, sure it works great at "factory" CFM levels but cannot adequatly keep up once power starts to increase. Mind you i still have a completly stock motor, 86' N/A no port work with about 65K on the clock. My goal originally was to get 200 Flywheel horsepower out of this motor, and i think i'm pretty damn close. Everything BUT the internals of the engine have been modified.

Later,

-Markus Reschny

 

wow--sounds great!!

Any figures on a $$ spent to date to do this? We N/A guys need thise kind of answers!

 

The Microtech obviously being the most expensive was $700 Only because i am affiliated with a shop that sell's, installs and tunes Microtech systems.

The entire manifold set-up, and porting was $120
550cc x 2 injectors $50
Misc shop supplies, injector seals/grommets fuel line, new intake gaskets, vaccum caps, custom block off plates ect..ect.. $45
Paying Bart to install the system on a saturday..$100

I still have another $50-$75 of tuning on the dyno before this is all finished. But like i said, 200 Flywheel Hp is very respectable.

-Markus Reschny
www.mazsport.net

 

How does not having an AFM work? I thought you had to have one?

Also, what kind of power gain difference would there be between a piggyback fuel computer and a full standalone EMS?

 

A piggyback system retains the factory flapper door system. These types of system while being much less expensive than a complete EMS system are limited to what a Haltech or Microtech or Wolf system can do.. With a full standalone system it allows you to ditch the AFM completely.

Also the difference between power gains from piggyback / EMS would prolly be somewhere in the area of 12-20 HP difference when both system are properly tuned.


-Markus Reschny
www.mazsport.net

 

I was going to to this awhile running my NA setup. Instead, I did a TII conversion and I did It with the LT-8 aswell. I like the system.

Did you get the BAC Valve option setup? You do know you have to request this, rather than assume that the BAC Valve will be operational with the LT-8?

 

Could similar results be obtained with an AEM or HKS standalone EMS?

 

nice..sounds like a good setup

 

Silverrotor, i currently do not run with a Bypass air control valve. I guess it helps with you have a working A/C and P/S but i have neither so i got lucky, lol.

Snub Dis... Yes, similar results can be obtained, but it's all a matter of "which offers the easiest tuning"

-Markus Reschny

 

One of the main reasons i installed a full blown stand alone system like this:

It gives me the option to upgrade as big and as bad as a want. I am still undecided if i am going to stay N/A or not. Something in me wants to run a Brap-Brap N/A, plain and simple. Than again something in me wants to run a Brap-Brap / T66 , and the Microtech will be there, waiting quietly ready to do it's job. N/A, Turbo, NOS, it's all endless with a Standalone.

-Markus Reschny

 

Well then. After seeing your astronomical HP numbers, I think that I'll ditch any ideas of forced induction (too much money at any given time). I guess I'll wait for my motor to start giving out, then have it rebuilt. And while it's being rebuilt, put in new 5th and 6th port sleeves, put on a nicely ported/extrude honed upper/lower intake manifold from an S5 with the VDI wired open, and also have a somewhat mild streetport performed. Sounds good to me, but does anyone know what kind of RWHP that would put out?

 

I am hoping for * as seen in my sig * slightly over 200whp with a new bridgeport motor currently in the works.

Your talking MILD street port? With all this and some sort of Aftermarket standalone ECU system you should see right around 190rwhp, maybe alittle more.

BridgePort with a properly tuned system would get you to just under what the N/A transmission can handle, 215-220whp

And don't even bring up PP :-)

-Markus Reschny

 

That's an awesome amount of power, and coupled with the response available with N/A cars, I could do quite well in my class for SCCA Solo II.

 

Just curious as to why you removed the aux port sleeves, and wired the VDI open?

 

I would love to do this mod along with a custom intake manifold.

 

The "other" Scott in St. Pete has been running Wolf EMS's on NA's for a couple of years now with the same results. It's nice to see that other people are trying it out now, because nobody ever believes the results until they try it themselves, lol. Now you know why I keep saying that an EMS should be one of the first mods if you are serious about your engine.

Most of your gains are from getting rid of that nasty stock computer. The AFM isn't as much of a restriction as you may think. Once you get the engine tuned, try putting the AFM back in place (with the air filter you are using now) and see what you get on the dyno. At the 200hp level, I don't think it's going to show much difference on the dyno.

That's entirely possible.

I would like to see what happens when you port the engine. IMO the LT8 is going to have a more difficult time as the porting increases because the vacuum is going to become less and less, and the LT8 currently has a fixed load band allocation which means less available load bands. However, sometimes theory doesn't always work out with reality, especially if you install a full-range TPS and the MT can make up for the load deficiency with accurate Alpha-N input for acceleration enrichment. Please keep us posted.

A standalone EMS uses its own sensors, so the AFM is not needed.

The peak horsepower difference of a standalone EMS vs. a fully-programmable piggyback fuel computer plus ignition computer is going to be marginal. The main advantage of the EMS is that it gets rid of the slow 80's technology stock ECU, and throttle response is greatly improved. Also, getting rid of the AFM does help free up some of the intake restriction, but more so at higher horsepower levels.

 

I'd like to hear if it's still running in 6 months...in a year...?


-Ted

 

I'd like to know if you can pass an emissions test with a Microtech?

Can you still get the ACV to function properly?

 

Ted,

why would the motor not last? in theory, he should be able to get the car running more efficiently with the microtech (depending on how well he can tune).

 

nice good work i am doing a simular project with my 86 n/a, keep us posted when you get some dyno #'s

 

I question if this was an embellishment or an exageration[sp?] of the install and initial tune.

This is the easiest story I have heard of installing and tuning any EMS.  I have not heard of another write-up that made it sound this easy.

I am not questioning the quality of the motor; I'm questioning how well the engine can be tuned.  If you think you cannot damage an NA engine with an EMS...oh boy.


-Ted

 

instal on a microtech is easier because you use your stock sensors and i comes with a base map already

 

If it were all this easy, then why haven't more people done it?


-Ted

 

I wired mine in about 3 hours, alone. It started right up and i've never installed a stand alone ems. Its very easy. A little wiring knowledge and common sense and it becomes a walk in the park. The reason more people havent done it is $$$.

 

i don't think he's talking about the install itself, but rather the installation and tuning. poor tuning is likely the #1 engine killer here as the 13B is pretty stout, again, tuned correctly. too much boost from creeping and not enough fuel or improper break in prematurely kills rotaries quickly from what I can tell on the forums. combine this with the fact that a rotary can only take a couple of good pings before it's toast.