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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 06:35 AM
  #26  
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From: Philly | PA
When I had the plug off my S5 alternator, the two wires were white with black stripe and white with blue stripe. Am I correct in saying I need to wire the White/Blue onto the post to combat the battery drain problem associated with FD alternators?
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 09:44 AM
  #27  
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by Mindspin311
When I had the plug off my S5 alternator, the two wires were white with black stripe and white with blue stripe. Am I correct in saying I need to wire the White/Blue onto the post to combat the battery drain problem associated with FD alternators?
There is no drain problem with FD alternators if it is installed and wired correctly
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 09:49 AM
  #28  
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by Needa13b
What's wrong with the picture?
Just glancing at it, the S5 alt is incorrectly wired... may be other issues as well, but I didn't spend any indepth time on it when the first thing I looked at was wrong.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 12:23 PM
  #29  
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^ Then how is it supposed to be wired? That would help instead of saying, the picture is wrong.

The FD alt is wired correctly in the picture.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 12:24 PM
  #30  
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I have heard that the S5 alt wiring is swapped compaired to the FD alt. Thats all i know.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 12:51 PM
  #31  
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Here is how the S4 alts wire from the factory:


and how the S5 alt wires:


S6 alt:
Attached Thumbnails Member's gift to me!-fdalt.gif  

Last edited by Ronin Rotary; Jan 27, 2006 at 01:08 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 12:52 PM
  #32  
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From: LA, encino
Originally Posted by vipers
here you go.... (note...i didnt write this.. just cut and paste)

okay so i finished the FD alternator installation today and im doing a write up because noone explains this stuff fully and ive come across problems which i had to modify myself so heres my writeup

you will need female adapters, shrink tube or electric tape, a bigger bolt and nut for the adjusting bolt for the alternator and a soddering tool for this
remove TMIC so its easier to take the alternator in and out (OPIONAL).

1. disconnect negative battery cable

2. take off all bolts connecting the alternator on the car. ( should be two )

3. disconnect terminal connections

4. loosen screws/bolts on alternator and disassemble into two ( use a flat head screwdriver taking it off )

5. mount alternator into vice (or something so that it doesnt spin) and take off bolt holding on the pulley ( do the same for the new alternator except you dont have to disassemble the FD alternator. vice the FD alternator by the serpentine pulley. ) (keep the parts seperate from each other dont get it mixed up)

6. vice the V pulley so that it doesnt move and drill the hole big enough so that it would fit onto the FD alternator stud. ( does not have to prefectly fit but somewhat near sense its a V pulley it would get held down by the belt anyways. )

7. next mount the serpentine pulley from the FD alternator into the vice and cut the little spacer out ( you could use a hacksaw ). dont cut to close to it you want it as long as you can get it.

8. after you would want to file the spacer down so its completly flat where you have cut it so your pulley doesnt waddle. ( it doesnt have to be filed down completely flat perfectly just so the pulley wont waddle as much ) . you may have a hard time getting on the spacer all the way down to where it suppose to go on the stud.

9. put the V pulley on and turn it to see if it moves in a still place and rotates good.

10. get a screwdriver and something soft and stick the screwdriver into the alternator into a hole so you can torque the nut holding the pulley ( unless you want to disassemble the alternator and vice it to torque it. )

11. on the old FC alternator remove the B terminal (one bolt ) (see atached) and also remove the B terminal on the FD alternator ( should be one screw and one bolt the bolts under a cap you just pop off )

12. for the FC alternator terminal B you have to grind down the divots ( the plastic circles that stick out on the other side ) use a grinder or a filer if necessary.

13. put the FC terminal onto the FD alternator ( dont worry if it doesnt go all the way down just bolt it on tight )

14. electricals. now for the electrical issue what i did was cut off the origannal connector and got 2 new wires different color approx 6" or a little more and soddered the wires ( the origannal wire colors should be black/white and white/black. DONT GET THEM CONFUSED! ) i soddered the wires on the origannal ones put shrink tube over it and then soddered female adapters onto the new wires. ( make sure they plug in the terminal S and L good before soddering them on the wires ) . then shrink the tube down so it would cover all the wacky wirings up ( you can use electrical tape to ) .

15. find a longer bolt and nut for the mounting bracket . ( if its to long then theres something in the way so dont get that long of a bolt probably 1/4 of a inch more then the origannal. ( you might have to use a washer also so the bolt doesnt go threw )

16. reassemble the alternator on wires plugs in first with the terminal B on ( make sure you keep the black rubber cover on because you dont want to ground it to anything... ) then screw the bolt and nut on first and get a pri bar and lift the alternator up so the belt is tight and tighten the nut and bolt. ( recommend you have someone help you on this ) . then reassemble TMIC. turn on the car and test the charge.

i hope you guys find use of this and i hope this gets archived
thanks Vipers, this would have helped alot when i put mine in. the alt kicks *** and i'm only running one belt.

i didnt know you had to use your original terminal so that made for a tighter fit.. gota fix that soon
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 01:06 PM
  #33  
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From: Sun Diego
Originally Posted by silverrotor


I forgot to post my original post. TiGeRC|aw: I told you a little muscle would slip the belt over the top and Into the v-groove of the pulley. I really am glad you are pleased with your setup.
ya i just used that clockwise pulley technique you sugested. other then that, alternator was easy to put on. only extra thing i did was file the sides of the bracket a little ( one on the engine ) to get all the extra **** that was on it off. alternator slipped in nice.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 01:19 PM
  #34  
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That just barely fits under your strut tower bar too, has anyone had any problems fitting the FD alternator under their strut tower bars?
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 01:25 PM
  #35  
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so based on those drawings that I posted above, Mark was wrong. The drawing is correct.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 03:47 PM
  #36  
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From: Toronto, Corporate Canada
Originally Posted by uRizen
That just barely fits under your strut tower bar too, has anyone had any problems fitting the FD alternator under their strut tower bars?
There was a thread on clearance Issues of various bars used. All checked out okay.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263755
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 11:50 PM
  #37  
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From: Sun Diego
Originally Posted by uRizen
That just barely fits under your strut tower bar too, has anyone had any problems fitting the FD alternator under their strut tower bars?
i got about the same space under my strut bar as i did when i had the S5 alternator on it
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