Well, not really a gift. I wish it had been free =] I just installed the new FD alternator on my FC. Here's some pictures:

From this tiny S5 alternator:





To this beef FD alternator:





Look at them volts! Brakelight on, headlights, stereo on high volume, heater on high, and at idle:



I'm pleased.

P.S. pictures aren't fuzzy. you're just high.

 

AHAHHA that's great...nice, I should pick one up for myself..when I get a job..=)

 

I beleive he's done making them.

 

what's needed to make it yourself?

 

an fd alternator, some random wires, a couple paper clips and 3 rubber bands

 

any body have a wrie up

 

here you go.... (note...i didnt write this.. just cut and paste)

okay so i finished the FD alternator installation today and im doing a write up because noone explains this stuff fully and ive come across problems which i had to modify myself so heres my writeup

you will need female adapters, shrink tube or electric tape, a bigger bolt and nut for the adjusting bolt for the alternator and a soddering tool for this
remove TMIC so its easier to take the alternator in and out (OPIONAL).

1. disconnect negative battery cable

2. take off all bolts connecting the alternator on the car. ( should be two )

3. disconnect terminal connections

4. loosen screws/bolts on alternator and disassemble into two ( use a flat head screwdriver taking it off )

5. mount alternator into vice (or something so that it doesnt spin) and take off bolt holding on the pulley ( do the same for the new alternator except you dont have to disassemble the FD alternator. vice the FD alternator by the serpentine pulley. ) (keep the parts seperate from each other dont get it mixed up)

6. vice the V pulley so that it doesnt move and drill the hole big enough so that it would fit onto the FD alternator stud. ( does not have to prefectly fit but somewhat near sense its a V pulley it would get held down by the belt anyways. )

7. next mount the serpentine pulley from the FD alternator into the vice and cut the little spacer out ( you could use a hacksaw ). dont cut to close to it you want it as long as you can get it.

8. after you would want to file the spacer down so its completly flat where you have cut it so your pulley doesnt waddle. ( it doesnt have to be filed down completely flat perfectly just so the pulley wont waddle as much ) . you may have a hard time getting on the spacer all the way down to where it suppose to go on the stud.

9. put the V pulley on and turn it to see if it moves in a still place and rotates good.

10. get a screwdriver and something soft and stick the screwdriver into the alternator into a hole so you can torque the nut holding the pulley ( unless you want to disassemble the alternator and vice it to torque it. )

11. on the old FC alternator remove the B terminal (one bolt ) (see atached) and also remove the B terminal on the FD alternator ( should be one screw and one bolt the bolts under a cap you just pop off )

12. for the FC alternator terminal B you have to grind down the divots ( the plastic circles that stick out on the other side ) use a grinder or a filer if necessary.

13. put the FC terminal onto the FD alternator ( dont worry if it doesnt go all the way down just bolt it on tight )

14. electricals. now for the electrical issue what i did was cut off the origannal connector and got 2 new wires different color approx 6" or a little more and soddered the wires ( the origannal wire colors should be black/white and white/black. DONT GET THEM CONFUSED! ) i soddered the wires on the origannal ones put shrink tube over it and then soddered female adapters onto the new wires. ( make sure they plug in the terminal S and L good before soddering them on the wires ) . then shrink the tube down so it would cover all the wacky wirings up ( you can use electrical tape to ) .

15. find a longer bolt and nut for the mounting bracket . ( if its to long then theres something in the way so dont get that long of a bolt probably 1/4 of a inch more then the origannal. ( you might have to use a washer also so the bolt doesnt go threw )

16. reassemble the alternator on wires plugs in first with the terminal B on ( make sure you keep the black rubber cover on because you dont want to ground it to anything... ) then screw the bolt and nut on first and get a pri bar and lift the alternator up so the belt is tight and tighten the nut and bolt. ( recommend you have someone help you on this ) . then reassemble TMIC. turn on the car and test the charge.

i hope you guys find use of this and i hope this gets archived

 

I would if the drawing was right

 

S5 Gauge Cluster > S4 Gauge Cluster.

Seriously. Damnit.

 

and what are you asking??? and what does it have to do with this thread???

 

excume him icamark..hes candian

 

maybe he's drunk on Molsens then, huh???

Or should I say Eh (A) instead

as in he is drunk on Molsens then, Eh???

 

rofl.

 

lol...well, i didnt say that, i just cut and paste someones explanation........ seemed to be acurate......

 

your running a little hot there

 

holy cow ive never seen the voltage that high on a FC!!!!! great work...i need to get 1 of them one of these days..

 

Its S5 so half way is normal.

Nice work with the alt, I was thinking of going S6.. but found another S5 for cheap when I needed it.

Hope you don't have problems with it, heard good things about silverrotors alts though.

 

Well, thats not entirely true. They are becoming limited and a real pain to possess so I choose not to advertise them anymore. I am able to still get them though.

Watch It buddy, I am Canadian too. You sir could use some revision In your spelling and writing of complete sentences. j/k

You too Mark! It's Molson, not Molsen. Huhh??

 

I forgot to post my original post. TiGeRC|aw: I told you a little muscle would slip the belt over the top and Into the v-groove of the pulley. I really am glad you are pleased with your setup.

As a side note, I sold a kit to a member awhile ago who Is running a Microtech LT-8 with *no BAC Valve*. With no Idle control, on account of the lack of this mentioned valve, he would complain that anytime he had his headlights on with heater at Idle his FC would want to give up. Other examples like stereo ON, brake light applied would do the same. You get the picture.

Anyway, after Installing the FD Alt he would no longer find his FC stalling at Idle when load was applied. I am running this same setup so I never really experienced this effect as I have been running a FD Alt for 3yrs now.

In no way I am saying that this Is fair substitute to compensate for the lack of the BAC Valve but It does create a "band-aid" effect. It just goes to show you that when running a superior electrical system you really can have a blanket effect over other parts that are less than par - or absent on your car all together.

 

damn, that voltage is high! mines just barly in the middle.

 

What's wrong with the picture?

 

actually that is where it is supposed to be

 

whats wrong with that wiring diagram B/c i used it and im doing ok, i know somethings fishy mut not sure what

 

That pulley looks huge for that FD alt. Dont go by the volt gauge on the gauge cluster. It sucks and is most of the time wrong. Put a volt meter to the better while the car is running. make sure you are getting the right volts. I only say this because a large pulley will under drive the alt and allow it not to charge at its full capacity.

 

Pulley should be 2-10/32" in diameter