Well, I got the bottom line on the oil cooler, but when I go to install the part that is coming out of the top of the oil cooler, it doesn't want to fit.

I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I have it going through the same spot that the other line went through. It would probably fit if I didn't have a radiator in the way, or A/C lines. Is there something I am missing? Has anyone else had this problem? With the lines just laying there, the threaded angle that is supposed to go into the top of the oil cooler seems to be able 1" - 2" too long, so I have to bend the line and try to get it to fit. But, it doesn't want to go in. I can get it directly on top of the hole.

Guess, my question is, if you have installed these, do you have any tips? Should I install the lines on the cooler first? and then put the cooler up in the car? Or bolt the cooler in, and then install the lines from there? Also, the fitting that go to the cooler didn't come with washers, so, I am guessing that they aren't needed? How tight should i put them on there?

Thanks!

 

When I installed mine I remember how hard it was to manover the lines just right so they were not rubbing against anything. Since they are stiff, it can be a pita.

 

It is a LOT easier to take out the oil cooler, install the lines, then feed the lines back in as you reinstall the oil cooler

 

I had some custom lines made, but had the same problem, just had to put the oil cooler side line on first, then manuever it into place to fit. Good luck.

 

+1

 

question #1.... easiest way to do it si to remove the oil cooler, install the lines on the cooler, and while it is still out, install the other ends on the motor, then reinstall it back into its location...... thats how i did it, worked fine

question #2.... the brass crush washers you are referring to 100% have to be there.... if not, youll leak oil from the lines..... either reinstall the old ones (not recommended), or go to mazda and spend $10 on 8 new ones (for both lines front and rear)

 

Thanks for the info on the brass crush washers. I will for sure pick up some. On the mazdatrix site they said they included "everything" to do the swap. So, I will pick up some brass crush washers. Should only be 4 of them that I need though. Two for the lines to the cooler, and 2 for the back lines to the block.

Now.... the mazdatrix lines have domed tops on the adapters from the block, and I thought that this caused a good enough seal to not need the washers.

But, the lines to the oil cooler might need a washer. They are not domed, if you know what I mean.

Thanks for the input guys!

 

Are you leaving one end of the line loose while you fit the other end?

 

At first I wasn't, but now I am.

Aaron, if they are domed, do I need a copper crush washer? If I put a washer there, it will cause the dome and the indent to not match up... if you know what I am talking about.

I am thinking about doing a copper crush washer from the line to the cooler, but that is the only spot. The other spots seem like they don't need it. I already have a crush washer between the adapter and the block, but from the adapter to the line, it has the dome / indent thing.

Thanks! I need to get this all back together before Oct. 14th. Going to last day of Auto-X.

 

Those lines could be my least favorite repair on these cars. I had some SS ones made and took a some rearranging to get them to fit properly

 

i had the exact same lines on my fc...i had all but one washer on (i lost it somehow)..and it started leaking the second i turned the car on..... you might get lucky, but i doubt it....... and there are 2 washers per end.. one up against the bolt head, and one that seals the bolt around the cooler... so per oil cooler line, there are 4 washers. but on the shorter one, youll only need 2 due to the other end screwing in..... so youll need 6 crush rings.... but this is just helpful advise

 

Thanks for the information. I'll look into it. I don't want oil leaking.

 

Put my new ones in today.


Dropped the underbelly pan in the front, removed the cooler, all 4 studs broke off from rust while removing. Had to weld in 4 new studs. Also took time to spray a hose through the cooler to remove any dust/crap that was in it. Put the lines back on, fed them into the bay as I reinstalled, bolted it up, put lines on the motor, and done. Wasn't that hard at all.... took all of about an hour start to finish.

 

So, looking on Jegs.com it looks like the proper name for the "dome" shape, is actually called a flared tip. heh.

But, for flared tips, do I still need to use a copper crush washer? I don't think that if I did put a washer on there, I don't think it would do anything but sit loose. The fitting doesn't come down far enough to crimp the washer. Maybe I am wrong. I'll double check when I get more time.

Hard to do this between college homework and working 40+. LoL.

 

If they are 37 degree flares, you do not need a copper crush washer. You just need to lubricate both halves with oil and tighten appropriately. I think the -10 side normally used for oil cooler lines gets about 20 ft-lbs of torque.

 

Thanks. Going to get the crush washers for the connection at the oil cooler, but the other ones I won't and I will just have to start it and check for leaks.

 

I just installed the Mazdatrix ss lines a couple weeks ago for a customer. I used copper crush washers at all connections. Be very careful when tightening these fittings. I got just a bit carried away with the fitting at the top of the cooler and snapped the fitting. Got a new fitting from Mazdatrix and all is well.

 

I know when I tightened the fitting on the front of engine, it felt like it was getting tighter and tighter, and then loose, and then I stopped. I don't know if I stipped something out or not. But, I am going to take it out and look at it. I hope i didn't. I wasn't torqueing on it very hard at all. Maybe 5 ft. lbs. at most.

I'll take a look again at the fittings. I am going down to a local hydraulic shop to get some copper crush washers tomorrow. I am going to get 8 or so of them just in case.

Thanks for all the input.

 

That is NOT a good sign.

OK, about the crush washers. We are probably talking about two different things...

The little metric to AN adapters that thread into the block need a crush washer on the engine side. This is how they seal.

However flared fittings (commonly 37 degree AN flares) do NOT need a crush washer on the flare side. They seal by creating a zero tolerance right on the taper as the fitting is tightened.