Just wanted to confirm a few things, to make sure i have this figure out correctly:

- To replicate the stock position, i just make the total adjuster link length the same as the stock sublink

- To increase camber negatively, i increase the length of the adjuster

- To increase camber positively, i decrease the length of the adjuster


Is this correct?

 

When you shorten the bar, your car goes from / \ to | |


So yes, your correct.

 

I'm not understanding...if my "positievely" you mean more negative camber, yes. If you mean more towards positive (i.e. less negative/more positive), then no its the other way around.

 

ok, let's say i am at zero camber (0). i'm not, but let's just say.

if i SHORTEN the bar, i will go into positive camber (+).

if i LENGTHEN the bar, i will go into negative camber (-).

correct?

 

You got it! thats correct!

When I installed aftermarket springs on my car (lowered 1.5'') I shortened the bar about 1'' from the stock bar's length. This was to correct for too much negitive camber after the drop.

 

yup, that's what i planned. but i haven't gotten my new shocks and springs yet, so i want it stock length for now.

just wondering, when you lower the car, does the front get more negative camber also? seems like it would, which would actually be a good thing for me. i always wear the outside of my front tires at autocross.

 

i hope you didnt buy it just yet. the adjustment alloted is not great by any means on those. i suggest getting the ones from AWR (or mazdatrix but AWR is cheaper) http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...products_id=86

they allow you to have -0.5 to -3 deg of camber in the rear. while the one that you hopefully havent bought will not give you that much amount of adjustment. the part may cost twice as much, but is the only camber adjustment that you will ever need

 

no, i already have it. i got it for cheaper than it is originally from Mazdatrix.

you are talking about the AWR adjusters, the ones that go on each wheel?

i was considering those. but, i am only dropping the car 1.5 inches. i only wanted to dial a little bit of neg camber out.
the single sublink adjuster is much simpler to install and adjust, and it is a much simpler device. in addition to this, i have heard that the independent wheel adjusters will put more stress on certain parts of the suspension, although i don't know if that is an issue.

 

1.5 is quite a bit. hopefully you will be able to dial most of it out. and as long as you got it for cheap, sounds like a good buy it is just hard for me to buy somethign when there is an off chance that i wont be able to get the adjustability that i need.

 

im planning on getting lowering springs from tanabe... the gf210's. will i have to purchase this as well. any other things that ill need would be appriciated. thanks guys.
-allen

 

you could just order the camber kit, take it too a tire place and have them do the alignment and camber and all that crap.

oh and it comes w/ instructions on how to increase/decrease camber, and how much added or subtracted camber you get from a full rotation...

 

i will probably just have to max it out as far as it will go.
but, i want negative camber. the outside edge of my tires keep getting worn faster than the inside edge at autocross events.

i figure -2.0 camber at most i could live with. any more and that might cause some wear issues...

 

I bought mine from Mazdatrix and it didn't come with instructions...

I have GF210s and my camber went to hell when I lowered it. You're going to need a camber adjuster.

 

it might not come with instructions but there is a how to with puctres on their site.

-2.0 is ALOT of rear camber. -1.5 is the MAX that i want to run, but i am loving -1 in the rear and -2.5 in the front.

 

FCslider is correct. These bars dont allow a whole lot of adjustment. But they are simple and reliable. With a 1.5'' drop, and the bar tightened all the way, my camber is more than fine.. id guess close to -1 degree's So, is what im saying is, the bar works just fine

The front will suffer a little bit of negitive camber, but, it does'nt change as drasticly as the back. I ran stock shocks with the 1.5'' drop in the front, and the tires wore perfectly in the front, and rear for that matter.

Easy to install too, just unbolt the old one, and use a jack to push the subframe up so that the bolt hole lines up to your adjustable bar, and bam, its done.

 

Sgt. Pepper... could i see some pics of your car with the GF210's installed. you know just some shots of your car and the stance it has. thanks.
-allen

 

i was wondering if anyone knows how short i can make the bar?
i made it as short as i could without making the subframe/suspension touch anything, but i am trying to track down a strange clunking sort of noise when i'm driving the car.
could this be because i made the bar too short?

 

I have one, needed it when I lowered my car 1.5"
-yes
-yes
-yes

I had my shop adjust it, on the alignment machine!!

 

sorry, i know is kind of out of the topic, I was wondering how wide can the tires goes with 17"rim with no rubing in the back and also lowered with 1.5. I lowered with tein s tech spring and tokico blue, i think that is about 1.5 drop so yeah. thanks

 

With a 1.5" drop and the single camber bar, you can get an acceptable alignment.

Depending on the condition of the rest of the suspension of course (meaning as long as your cam bolts for toe are still free) you'll be able to get it to a point where you won't burn your tires unevenly.

The *only* thing you may have to do with the single bar to get just enough camber back is to dimple the floor slightly where the main subframe will hit the floor. A couple light dings with a finishing hammer will give you just that little bit extra.

Of course, as mentioned the individual links are ideal since the center bar can still leave a differential (0.3-0.5 degrees between each wheel) since they are adjusted together.

 

well i will be taking it for an alignment shortly, but right now my camber looks pretty good, there doesn't appear to be too much.
however i think i may have made the bar too short, causing some part of the rear end to be hitting while driving causing an intermittent clunking noise.

 

alright, some advice for people using this sort of camber adjuster.

1) make sure you put anti-seize on the threads before you get it on the car. since there are two different metals corrosion can occur quickly and make it hard/impossible to turn the threads after just a few months.

2) when adjusting the bar to go as short as possible it may seem like there is enough clearance between the subframe/suspension components and the underfloor of the car, but there might not be. i adjusted the bar as short as possible at first and nothing appeared to be touching, but when i actually drove the car there was clunking noises. closer inspection revealed that the end of lateral link was hitting the underfloor of the car while driving. i lengthened the bar a bit and it is not hitting anymore.

 

Thats what Classicauto was getting at, you can slightly bend the floorpan so it won't touch anymore if you want to max out the bar.

 

yeah, i didn't really need the bar to be that short so it was fine just making it a little longer.
i don't think it's that great of an idea though to make it as short as possible by denting the floor in.
this sort of adjustment changes suspension geometry so i would try to adjust as little as you can get away with. unfortunately even lowering the car an inch or two with the FC changes the rear suspension geometry quite a bit. it's all a compromise.

 

The AWR pieces are nice, and very useful to get the camber equal if you have a slightly bent car like I do.