ROTARYROCKET7

Hey guys, i have searched the forums to find what type of greases, lubricants or sealants people use on there FC3S.

Example using Anti-seize compounds for sparkplugs and oxygen sensor threads, di-electric grease on spark plug boots.

Can we get a list going for the part on our cars with the type of lubricants that should be used to ensure proper working condition.

Thanks

Jason NYC

ROTARYROCKET7

I think this list would be good for everyone. We all know the basics types of compounds we need for basic things

Anti-seize for the Spark Plug Threads and Oxygen Sensors
Graphite for Hinges, locks
Moly EP grease for wheel bearings
Di-Electric Grease for electrical connections and spark plug boots

So lets continue this list for other parts like control arms, bushings, steering links etc.

Also some people have found uses for other types of lubricants not listed on their packaging.

Im sure we can all contribute a little bit

Jason NYC

Dr4900n

It's my understanding that Di-Electric grease DOES NOT conduct electricity.

Just to warn you people that think it might...

It just great at keeping the water out...

Anyways...

WD40. Who dosen't use this stuff :p (Shame it wipes off so easily and dosen't penetrate too well ... actually ... why does anyone use this stuff??? )

papiogxl

iTrader: (6)

White lithium grease- window tracks, sunroof, seats, basically hinge or slider that needs lube

micah

When the list is done, I'll add it to the wiki.

ROTARYROCKET7

Blue (medium strength) / Red (heavy duty strength) Threadlocker to be applied on bolts. Depending on the location of the bolts will dictate the needed strength of adhesion.

Meduim Strength (BLUE) is for bolts , fasteners against vibrations loosening (between 6-20mm in size)
Maximum Strength (RED) , much heavier duty than the BLUE, Suggested Applications: Frame brackets, suspension fasteners, shock absorber mounts, wheel studs, bolts, water pump bolts, oil pan bolts, drive shaft bolts, rocker arm adjustment nuts, carburetor studs

Here is a pic for easy visualization




Jason NYC

micah

How about engine oil, diff fluid, tranny fluid (auto and manual), brake fluid, P/S fluid....

I want to add this to the wiki.

ROTARYROCKET7

Engine Oil: Good quality oil that meets or exceeds the API SL / SM standards.

Starting / Operating temps below 20 Degrees F: 5w-30
Starting / Operating temps below 0 Thru 80 Degrees F: 10w-30
Starting / Operating temps above 30 Degrees F: 20w-50

For Winter time, people usually put 10w-30 (learn this the hardway, car wont start on days below 30degrees , lol). In the summer 20w-50 adds great protection.

I use Castrol GTX (Personal Preference)

For turbo cars i beleive its 20w-50

Transmission Fluid: API Service GL-4 or GL-5

Outisde Temp: Below 0 Degrees F SAE 80W
Outside Temp: Higher 0 Degrees F SAE 90
All season: SAE 80w-90

Differential:

Open Diff : API GL-5 Only

Outisde Temp: Below 0 Degrees F SAE 80W
Outside Temp: Higher 0 Degrees F SAE 90

LSD Diff: API GL-5 with Special Lubricant for LSD

SAE90

Brake Fluid: DOT 3/ DOT 4

Icemark

There is no sperm of the devil (otherwise known as WD-40) on my car.

and you forgot things like it eats teflon and some other plastics and attracts dirt

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

spot_skater

I only use the red thread locker.

Red tack grease is what I use for any parts that need to be greased... pilot bearing, input shaft, etc.

Dielectric grease is good for the spark plug boots, too. Helps keep them resistant to getting stuck.

And there's really no need to put anti-seize on the threads of the spark plugs. Their torque rating is something like 17-25 ft/lbs, and for how often they should be checked/replaced anyway, I don't think there's a reason they would get stuck... PLUS I believe the threads have some kind of zinc coating to prevent them getting stuck...

That little bit of brake grease to put on the little backing plate of brake pads, too...

I think you covered a lot there, Jason.

James

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

who puts anti seize on spark plugs?

ROTARYROCKET7

Spark plug threads, mazdatrix recommends it and if if im not mistaken Haynes mentions it.

Jason NYC

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Ive never done it..........how long do you plan on leaving the plugs in that you don't want them to seize into the housings? Wouldn't anti-seize just burn off after a few heat cycles?


Meh, to each is own.............waste of time and product IMHO though......

but nice list

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Ummm, is this true?

I was kinda curious of that and anti-seize''s conductivity. In Aaron's writeup of regrounding he says to put anti-seize on all the bolts. If it doesn't conduct electricity, won't coating the bolts prevent it from grounding?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I pack every electrical connector in the car with dielectric grease. I've also never had an electrical problem in the car. Coincidence? I think not.

Not putting anti-seize on EVERY fastener that does not require sealant (including spark plugs) just seems foolish to me as well. Why not take the 2 seconds to brush a little on and avoid the possibility of headaches in the future?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I put it on my electrical connections too and don't have problems, I'm just a bit confused as to how putting on a non-conductive material allows it to still conduct electricity. Unless, of course, di-electric grease is conductive. In which case, I get it...

ROTARYROCKET7

You are totally correct

A dielectric, or electrical insulator, is a substance that is highly resistant to electric current.

Dielectric fluids with higher dielectric constants, such as electrical grade castor oil, are often used in high voltage capacitors to help prevent corona discharge and increase capacitance.

Because dielectrics resist the flow of electricity

Icemark

The primary purposes of dielectric grease is to keep out moisture, and
prevent corrosion. Prevention of corrosion keeps the metal-to-metal contact point in
a connector conducting electricity. If the grease conducted electricity, it
would allow the tracking to ground of the power or signal being conducted. It's
neutral and forms an excellent 02 block. Also lubricates but w/o any specific
bulk. Wont' work for heavy loaded bearings, etc. Great for multiple plug
blocks, relay contacts, slide contact switches, rubber lube, speedo cables when
combined w/graphite, etc. In addition it is used for a heat conductor when some
electronic components are mounted on surfaces to dissipate heat (like the
ignition power stage on coils). It is non-conductive, but when you slide the
connectors together there is metal-to-metal contact and the grease gets displaced
but the area around connector is protected from moisture. If the grease was
conductive it would be too easy to get "bleed" from one pin to another in a
connector if the grease got hot and liquified and spread. DO NOT ever grease an
oxygen sensor connector as the sensor is vented through the wiring on many
sensors and the grease will contaminate sensor over time and it will cease to
function. It helps keep the contact clean. Dielectric grease can be used to improve
conductivity in bullet and spade connectors while protecting the joints from
exposure to moisture, dirt, acid, what-have-you.

that nissan guy

iTrader: (2)

badass.... i smell a sticky

ROTARYROCKET7

SKeet Skeeeet lol.

What about special lubricants for engine teardowns. I seen the atkins video and they use petroleum jelly on the apex seals to hold the springs and seals in place.

Petroleum jelly everyone, not just for **** sex, also for apex seals lol

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Icemark beat me to it, so yeah, what he said. The grease itself is in insulator but the metal to metal contact still takes place on the connector and the grease surrounds it.

One of the things I did years ago when I first bought the RX-7 was go over all the harnesses. At that time I packed them with grease, cleaned the connectors, etc. Since then I've had zero issues. Now when I use modern WeatherPack style connectors I'll shoot grease into the cavities before I assemble the connectors so everything seals up really nicely.

As for engine building, I have always just used assembly lube on nearly everything. It's also called "cam lube". To hold seals into the rotors, I use Vascelene. Then the tension bolts get a little 10W-30 on the threads so they torque down smoothly.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Ok, that makes sense...

micah

I'll add this to the wiki.. soon as I know everybody wants it in there... some people are a tad picky about their information getting used somewhere else. And I'd rather not get yelled at again.

ROTARYROCKET7

if its on a forum it belongs to the collective body and soul of the rotary owners of the universe lol.

Jason NYC