so i keep reading a little here and there that i will need to take off my actuators to remove my stock exhaust manifold. is this true? cause i have an RB header and silencer waiting to be put on. i just need to find out whats gotta be done before i start. and any tips for getting the 16 yr old rusty *** bolts off? its an 89 gtus if you need to know that.

 

PB Blaster will become your best fiend, forget the WD-40. Yes, the actuators should come off, it's easier that way. Just take your time and try not to snap any bolts off.

 

i installed my header without removing anything except the manifold heat shields and manifold itself. it's certainly possible if you are good with your fingers and feeling around for the nuts/studs. oh and duct tape inside of a socket is your friend.

 

BE VERY EASY I SNAPPED OFF THE UPPER REAR EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUD FLUSH WITH THE HOUSING AND I HAVE NO IDEA HOW THE **** IM GONNA GET IT OUT i did drive for a year with 3 bolts holding my header on though

 

Hmmm, interesting tip, I had never heard that before....good to know, thanks for sharing.

 

im almost %100 sure that the header/exhuast manifold goes onto studs, not bolts, so all you have to do is cut the nut off. i know how much of a bitch they can be, i had to cut one off of an engine i was tearing down.

 

oops i meant studs

 

I havent done it yet but from the look you should be able to get the exhaust manifold off withotu touching anything else.

 

Its hard tho. When I took mine off, every time that is, I removed the actuators.

I really don't see the big deal, they are held onto by two nuts that are I think 9mm or 8mm in size, really ******* easy to get off. Slide them off, you now have much easier access to the manifold bolts.
The heat shield is VERY hard to get off with the manifold still attached to the block, just leave it on until you pull the whole thing off.

 

Yeah, it's easier to remove with the actuators off. Took me like like maybe 15 mins. to remove the stock "rustbox" and install my header. Don't forget the ''anti-seize.''

 

so **** tons of wd40, mayyyybe take the actuators off and i should be good to go. thanks for the help. might try and get it done this weekend if its nice out.

 

I think the most difficult bolts were the ones not on the header to engine, but from the downpipe to presilencer and header flange. REAL ******* BITCHES to get off! damn it sucked. If you dont have wd40, motor oil works good too, anything oily to help give the nut the least resistance to get off. If you can twist the nut off about 1/3 or so, your in luck, douse the threads of the stud coming out of the flange that is now exposed, in oil. Tighten the bolt back up, and then douse the other side of the bolt where the stud threads are with oil, now twist it all the way off, it should come off much easier.

good luck.

Just take the damn actuators off, save yourself some headache. I can't believe that your 'deciding' to take them off... its easy buddy.

 

haha ok no more deciding......ill take the actuators off. you know what your talking about. (i hope) hehe. once again, thanks for the advice

adam