hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I try to make it a point not to stock people on the internet Anyways I had no idea you where in se texas thats awesome! You should be my rotary mechanic! I'll pay you, lol. Anyways here is the info and place I found that offer the banjo bolt with crush washers http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/pd.html Hopefully this helps my car out.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Well I just checked at summit and they don't cary them however I'm a bit confused on if you need all that other stuff with the banjo bolt or do you just need the banjo bolt and two crush washers. Thanks again

WAYNE88N/A

This is my recommendation- but to each his own, do what you want...

If you're going to go to all the trouble of pulling the LIM and replacing all the stuff that needs replacing at this point in the car's life, the extra $150 or whatever it is for a new PD is well worth the cost. I've heard all the arguments about whether the banjo bolt "mod" is a good thing or not. My opinion follows this line of reasoning- in any pressurized liquid system that I know of (my house plumbing, our aircraft's hydraulic systems, and our cars' fuel injection system, among others), some form of dampner is designed into the system to help alleviate the pressure shocks of rapid valve (or solenoid) movements. That's what our PD's are there for, period. I choose to keep mine as it was designed by Mazda engineers with far more education and fuel system design experience than I have. What you do is your choice...

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Oh damn..............I was hoping you wheren't going to say this...........I was just searching through endless threads on this and everyone that is a major player as far as this website is conserned said the pd is the way to go and don't trust that banjo bolt, so sometimes I tell myself learn from smarter people!!! However there where a couple of smart people that said the banjo bolt is all they use and nothing has happend. This comming from rotary mechanics of 20 plus years I tend to say they are usually right just from been there done that sercumstances. So I am at a crossroad hear and man does 8 bucks or whatever for a banjo bolt sound good! However on the other hand in my business you get what you pay for so is this the same case???? Man this is a moral dilema whitch my pocket book seems to be the desciding factor.

WAYNE88N/A

If you have a banjo bolt, and just can't handle a PD for now, go ahead and throw the bolt on there, it's not like you're going to blow something up (although, with you, anything's possible, lol)...

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

oh lord isn't that the truth! Thank goodness this car has been pretty good to me so far, I think it understands that I'm a newb and that I don't mean anything but good I think I'm going to be a moron and get the banjo bolt even though the pd on the car is fine, the engine is a jspec with about 50k on it but still what I'll do is just keep the pd for a rainy day and if by some chance the banjo bolt does something that its not supposed to then I'm going to put the pd back on. Oh also I'm going to do it right and go ahead and send the injectors off to be cleaned. Thanks again for the help man!

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ok wayne I took the uim off and I found the connector that goes to the water thermo sensor however it was bad off with like 3 of the four sides missing curroded (sp) etc... This is the same connector it looks like for my bac valve and bother are equally as bad. Also checked the fuel injection plugins and they are bad off as well not to bad but bad enough to where I don't have to force the connector off at all it just comes off real easily. I guess I was wondering if there is any way to get the connectors for these and rewire them???? What would you do??? Thanks

Cameron.

WAYNE88N/A

At that point I would get a new harness, but I've got cash on hand for that kind of stuff, and I realize most of you do not....Soooo, If you want to, you could attempt to RTV what remains of the plugs on to the sensors. I've heard of superglue being used before, but I would think that RTV would hold up to the heat & vibrations a little better. Somebody sells these connectors, I've seen it before on the forum, although I think it was for the injector connectors only. You could always call your local friendly cash-hungry Mazda dealer & see if they can help.

If you go the RTV route, use just enough to make a bond, and use something to keep the connector "pushed on" until the RTV cures ('bout 20 min.). I'm not sure this will work with 3/4 of the shell missing, but if it's all you got right now, might as well give it a shot

If you are adventurous, you could also find some small female terminals that would fit the thermo sensor's pins, and splice new wiring into the system. Then fill the back of the sensor with RTV, up to the wires' insulation, so that all bare metal areas are protected from water & corrosion (what we used to call "potting" the plug in the old days)...Let me know if you need any help with whatever way you go

kel

Fizucked up?!? wow, that's rough.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well ****! hum...................I'm trying to find my digi cam so I can take some pics for you but I can't find that bastard anywhere. I also ran into another problem but I don't see that it is that bad. You know the two bolts that hold on the secondary injector fuel fail (top one) well the the place where you put the bolts one of them are broken completely off. Man this is some crazy *** ****! Can't wait to find my camera. Also I would love to remove all these vac lines I'm just going to have to take the plung and remove them all!!!! Oh one more thing do you think the coolant line going into the bac valve is needed??? Also the hose going from the rear housing to the bac valve??? THanks.