Bambam7

Just wondering if anyone has atempted to make their own short shifter
I don't mean a chopped shifter (I already did that).

Just extend the shaft below the main pivot ball, where it goes down into the tranny.

I'm thinking- just cut it, and weld a 1" steel dowel pin or something in to extend it. Then grind the welds flush...
I know the welds need to be strong...

Any opinions?

Here's a diagram of what I mean... Don't laugh, I did it with Paint!!

RETed

You're on the right path...
The Battle Version short shift kit is basically a spacer block and a short extension like you mentioned for the AE86.

You'll need a spacer block under the shifter (top) block to space it away from the transmission.&nbsp Once you do that, you'll have your own short shift kit (this is what the BV AE86 kit does).&nbsp You better make sure the extension is welded on good - if it breaks, you're going to be in deep doo-doo!



-Ted

Bambam7

A spacer block... well, I always wondered about that
I had always though that there just must be enough space in the tranny for the rod to extend down further.
Well, that makes sense.
Soo. Just a cup shaped peice the same thickness as the extension?
The extension I can do, but the spacer (from what I currently understand it to be) may be to involved for me right now.

RETed

Yeah, you'll need to raise the bottom "cup" and pin upwards.&nbsp This might be a pain in the *** for an FC (now that I think about it), since the AE86 has a detachable mount udnerneath...



-Ted

rxhevin

Bambam7, nice edit of my picture. I love it :-) I will try it tomorrow. Welding could be interesting, especially not being able to see close up with my filter mask on. Anyway, I will post pics when I am done. The spacer will need to be nice and rounded to fit the ball, unless I reuse the stock bushings (any advice on this REted)? Eh, Ill give it a go anyway. I guess it I pound the **** out of it with a hard rubber mallet and it doesnt break, then it will be ok in the tranny.
-DL

spankenstein

I don't understand why you would go trough all the trouble. No matter what you do you change shift throw by altering the fulcrum point. Either make it shorter above or longer below, both achieve a shorter throw.

Mark S

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, i did this on my old GSLSE. Worked pretty well. I used the pics on mazdatrix's web page as a guide. You'll need 2 spacers: one for the lower shift bushing, and one to space the top-cap and top bushing. Don't forget the pin.

You'll aslo need longer bolts. If you machine the spacer to fit the old pin. it'll line up perfectly when you assemble it.

Remember, a little goes a long way. I made mine about 3/4 of an inch, and it was plenty.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

From what I understand, if you make it shorter at the top, you are reducing leverage but not the throw. I might be wrong, and I know Ted will correct me!

BTW - I did try cutting mine long ago, its just not worth it nor the same.

Bambam7

You are reducing leverage- but you are also reducing the throw.
Since the lever travels in an arc, reducing the length of the lever will decrease the overall throw, since the end of it is now closer to the fulcrum of the arc. - but it's simply travelling on a shorter radius, you feel a more pronouced "arc effect", which I don't really like from the cut shifter.

Oh- I should credit rx7hevin for the origional pic which I chopped!!

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

this sounds like a much cheaper idea than spending the $200 on a short shifter...

let me know how it goes