So you want or need a new TID.. but you've searched your pockets and only came out with lint and $20..
assuming you've already got a cone intake installed, here's the easiest way to get a bit more boost:

#1 - Go to home depot and purchase a 3" to 2" reducer, 3" to 3" connector and a 45 degree street elbow (cut the flared ends off)

 

#2 - Assembly should be easy enough for even a trained monkey

 

#3 - Install it in your car .. you will need a checkvalve for the end of the stock BOV.. the other hose that attached to the stock tid (silver checkvalve) and be openvented without worry..
You ight want to make yourself a little bracket to keep the TID in place so it doesn't accidently slip off if it's bounced around..
BTW: some people prefer to use a silicon reducer.. silicon reducers cost an arm and a leg.. I've used rubber reducers without any problems at all.. some have lasted over a year.. if it ever needs to be replaced it's only $5..

 

i was using this page for refrence, and he says 2.5" to 3"...
http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/tid.html

So which is it? I went to Lowes to get the parts, but they dont have a 3" to 2.5", so that stoped TID building pretty quick.

Also, do you have any more specifics on the check valve? i think that would be easier to do than worrying about putting it take into the intake, but i already have idle problems... Is the check vavle going to make this any worse???

Nice pics btw

 

We have three guy's running this simple setup and all work great, and have experienced no idle problems from venting the blow off valve. A couple of the guys have experimented with different check valves and have found that the brass one you see in the picture works the best. If the checkvalve opens under low pressure you will find that the valve will flutter and produce a vacuum leak. The brass valve is quiet however, the much cheaper check valves produce more of the woosh sound, but dont seal as well, and often open under lower pressures.

As for the reducer I know on our cars the 3"-2" worked just fine, I am not sure if the flange on the turbo is bigger on the 89+ models but for our 87 and 88's 3"-2" was fine.

 

*warning n00b question below*

what's a TID?...

 

TID= Turbo Inlet duct. It is the piping that flows air to the turbo, after the MAF (air flow sensor)

The stock TID has a small diameter, and is made out of corregated plastic. It also has two 90 degree bends in it. By removing the stock TID and the airpump you can fit much larger diameter piping and only put 1 45 degree bend. Also because of the heat involved the stock plastic gets hard and prone to cracking which can cause all sorts of problems. With a free flowing exhuast and the TID mod you can turn your stock RX-7 in to a very quick car. It does however raise boost levels so an FCD (fuel Cut defencer) is a good idea.

 

Curiousity, I got a 91 TII.

Would this (TID), and an exhaust consisting of : DP, new hiflo cat, cat back; require more fuel support, or would a FCD and the stock fuel system be enough?

 

Walbro Pump is only $150, a hell of alot cheaper than a new engine and is good up to 12 or 15psi. I was running something similar to the setup you're speaking of when I blew up my Rexy

 

The way I understand it the Walbro will flow more but only if directed to do so. The stock ecu is not going to utilize the Walbro. I think a S-AFC would be a better purchase, with that you can utilize the stock pump and if need be go with a Walbro later.

 

my trained monkey is looking for the turbo...

 

instead of going fuel pump, your car on the stock turbo isnt going to last very long pumping 12-15 psi....

I plan on just getting a manual boost controller, setting it to 10 psi, then using the super afc to tune it a little bit....

but with a full exhaust intake, tid, fcd, super afc, boost controller running 10psi or 11 psi, I can bet you you could easily snake into the 13's.....

matt

 

That's where I'm at.
I have
-RacingBeat Downpipe
-RacingBeat Presilencer(midpipe)
-Apexi N1 Dual Catback
-RacingBeat FCD
-Autometer Boost and Air/fuel Gauges
-TID Mod


I plan on a manual ball and spring boost contoler, I will tune it for around 10-11psi, and then a S-AFC so I can tune the fuel delivery a bit. This system should run safely on the stock pump and injectors, however anymore tweaking and those two things will be upgraded. Seeing as how the hot weather up here is comming to an end and the car will soon be parked they will get done next summer.

 

I'm curious as to what you did to hook your RB presilencer up to your N-1 dual? I want to change my setup to something like that. Right now I have a RB 3" dp goint to a short pipe going from 3" to 2.5" into a Bonez 2.5" mp. Want to get rid of the Bonez mp and do a setup like yours.

 

Oh, come on, my 88 TII loves the fresh cold air, it seems to be running lots better now that its getting colder, of course I know you don't want to drive it in the snow...BTW, how rich/lean is your setup running? Its very much like mine, except I don't have the TID mod yet...

 

I have full RB and an FCD installed on the car now. I know this is not a safe setup--but dont worry i am not being hard on it. I do however have a manual boost controller in my posession--could I just pop that on and set it to like 9psi?? Then worry about fuel pump and s-afc later when I can afford it??

 

Common misconception about what boost controllers do..
They should actually be called Boost raisers ..

A boost controller will not lower your boost level.. it will raise your boost to a set point beyond the boost your car makes unassisted..

 

I see, thanks.

 

Then can't you get a popoff valve (or whatever relevant needed) and set it to the max psi, so it would vent off; or would that just protect the engine and not the turbo itself since it could still be making higher psi, and your just keeping the engine from getting it?

Im new to turbo's can't ya tell ?

Joe

91 TII-Nothing yet...
83 GSL-0 Emissions, cat gone, sitting in driveway

 

I have a Greddy air/fuel meter w/ heated o2 sensor and have done DP/MP, FCD and TID mod on my 87 TII. I used the WALBRO fuel pump and can tell you with certanty that it richens the mixture ALOT just by adding it. With just the fuelpump rewire and FCD you are fine untill you exceed stock boost by a bit and then you run lean. With the Walbro you will run very rich. Even at idle the computer can't adjust enough for it; 8-11 parts air to fuel, and as boost comes on it is very rich too (pegged at 8.) As boost builds it will lean out some, only in 5th gear full boost (10psi for me w/ my ported wastegate keeping it down) does it go to 11 to 12 parts air to fuel (lean is under 12.7, but turbo cars like a bit rich for saftey.) WALBRO EQUALS MORE FUEL
And for the reducers, I found 2.5-3 and 3-3 SILICON for $8 (Matrix brand I think) and a nice smooth bent 3" aluminum bent pipe for around $10. The 1/8 NPT tap for the reference line was around $5, ouch and the brass fitting around $2. Made my own check valve that seals great and sounds LOUD and unrestricted.

 

Good info! Thanks!
Happy motoring & safe boosting!

 

Just to answer a few questions. The N1 system bolted right up to the RB presilencer. The N1 is ment to replace the stock system including the ypipe. So as long as you have the stock setup from the the y pipe back (including the y pipe) then the N1 will bolt up fine.

As for the Walbro pump. Will it pump for fuel? yes of course, but it will pump it ***** nilly at all RPM's. Do I want my car running rich at idle? No that's just wasting fuel and washing oil of the housing. Do I want it super mega ultra rich on WOT? No dont want that either cause it's slow. You need to be able to tune the fuel delivery, that's why an S-AFC is perfect. With the mods I have I can run the S-AFC with stock pump and injectors and tune it so it runs Stoich at idle and regular driving but when you get in the higher RPM's it will richen the mixture.

Now with that said is the Walbro eventually a good idea? Yes of course, but it cant be fully utilized without an S-AFC or similar piggy back fuel computer. You will eventually need bigger pump and injectors but for a setup like mine running a S-AFC is perfectly safe. I know someone who has run at 16psi of boost and has a S-AFC and stock everything else, of course that was at 94 octane but still.

 

16 psi on a stock fuel pump and stock injectors on a stock turbo? EGADS you're mad!

Actually I have a feeling that our elevation has a little something to do with the fact that we can run stupid things that shouldn't work.. ie: 21 psi on a stock turbo ...

a new fuel pump will raise fuel pressures, and so will increase the ammount of fuel out of your injectors at a given duty cycle.. it does richen thigns up all over the place.. or to use your term "***** nilly".. I've had to majorly correct the s-afc after the installation of the FD pump.. but at least I've got some room to spare with fueling once I get the turbo upgrade.. even at the highest point of fuel correction at WOT 12 psi boost I'm looking at only 64% duty on the injectors ..

If you're going to be running 10 psi boost, you should be fine with a re-wired pump and stock injectors..

hmm.. i think i'm rambling .. i'll just cut myself off here

 

Oops, my post had typo 12.7 as stoich, no 14.7. Rest of #s were right.

 

That was me that ran 16 psi of boost, on My trip to BC, of course I think the elevation was no lower than 3000 feet all the way there and the 94 octane gas definetly helps.
I think the elevation has alot to do with it, also our average temp in Calgary is pretty low compared to our southern Friends, we don't get the consistent 95+ temps, today it was about 50-55 degrees F, which means our intercoolers actually work a little bit, I could see at sea level or close to it, with 100 degree temps and 12 psi of boost, things would go bad, I think in places like Californis and Arizona, our engines would probably have grenaded by now, but with our conditions here, the 'normal' rules can be stretched, like Eric running 1.5 bar, or 21 psi of boost, and guess what, his turbo still is good, his engine has seen big boost with sloppy fuel curves and timing out the wazoo and it continues to live.
With the relatively stock fuel system in my car, except for the rewired pump, I have never seen stoich under boost, its always rich, in fact the car is faster when I lean it out with the s-afc, I am a bit scared to run a walbro, I think I would have the safc set at -10 with that pump.. Currently I am running 9-10 psi of boost with the occasional spike to 12, and everything is A ok..
There was all that fearmongering going on a while back about 12 psi of boost bringing around the wrath of hades, fire gas smoke and brimstone appearing if you started increasing the boost, I think the conditions under which it is done, plays a large part in its success or failure, you hear of people blowing motors at 11 psi, did they ever change the oil, was the fuel filter clean, was the motor at 250,000 miles, was it a 110 degrees outside with a plugged rad? to many variables possible to arbitrarily blame it on to much boost..Max