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MAJOR suspension problem question!

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Old 07-29-04, 10:31 AM
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MAJOR suspension problem question!

I have a MAJOR problem with the left front wheel. Now, to set the scene, I will describe what I did coming up to this point in time that I realized the problem existed.

Last night, I was about to change the brakes, being that they are squeeking up a storm, so I take the LF wheel off to look at it. I realize they have about 1/2 or more of the pad left. I suddenly get an urge to rotate the tires, which I had been neglecting for a while. I rotate the drivers side first, front to back (unidirectional Goodyear eagle HP's-teh suck), torque the lugs to 85 ft lbs, then the passenger side, same way, and set it down. I then drive home with the car, suddenly realizing a floating feeling from the Left Front, so I pull off to a parking lot and check the LF wheel, pulling on the top (man, my hands barely fit in the fender) and I realize a popping coming from the wheel, no motion for the wheel to hub, so I assume that it is either the ball joint (I don't wanna spend $360!!!), the strut tower mount, or the wheel bearing (I don't think so). I also found out that after a hard left hand turn at about 20mph, the floating feeling went away and the car felt like it always did, so I wonder if I popped somthing out of alignment when jacking up the passenger side and it popped back in, or if I have somthing else to worry about.

Any help is appreciated, I don't want to be replacing a fender from a bad ball joint (you all who have any idea of what happens when they fall out know what I mean)
Old 07-29-04, 10:58 AM
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First thing to do, if you suspect the ball joint, is to jack up the LF wheel, grab it top and bottom, rock it, and see what's moving. If it's the ball joint, it'll be obvious. I believe you can swap in an S4 lower control arm. (about $20, used) They have replaceable ball joints held in by 2 bolts, and new joints are only $60.
Old 07-29-04, 11:18 AM
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BTW - I stopped rotating tires on all my cars. All rotation does is unbalance your current setup as the "worn rounded edge less grip" tires go in the rear and "not worn square edge lots of grip" tires go in the front. If you drive the rx-7 like a sports car, your tires will wear evenly and all 4 will need changing at once.
Old 07-29-04, 03:49 PM
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jack up the wheel and and move it by hand along with everything else you'll find the problem.
Old 07-29-04, 06:37 PM
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Bad ball joints usually manifest themselves by shaking the car at high speeds (90 mph+), most of the time you will not be able to detect it by hand.
Old 07-30-04, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
Bad ball joints usually manifest themselves by shaking the car at high speeds (90 mph+), most of the time you will not be able to detect it by hand.
well, I couldn't see it by just pulling the wheel back and forth, but once I got a prybar in there, I had about 1/8th of an inch or more virtical play without the top part through the hub moving at all. I guess that sucks for me.

Anyone got a drivers side lower control arm with a good ball joint?
Old 07-30-04, 01:04 PM
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I don't agree. It just makes sense that the drive tires will wear faster. AWD then your argument would stand.
Old 07-30-04, 02:36 PM
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It's not the tread thickness, it's the "square vs round" sidewall edge wear that throws balance off when you rotate.

On prolonging tire life, that's great if you have a SEDAN with 60K mile tires. Sports cars wear pretty evenly if you drive them hard & don't do burnouts or drag launches all the time.

Last edited by vaughnc; 07-30-04 at 02:38 PM.
Old 07-30-04, 03:36 PM
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um, guys, not to be mean or anything but STOP JACKING MY THREAD!!!!!
Unless you got a lower control arm w/ ball joint that is good, then take it to the wheels & suspension forum!!!

oh, yeah, this is a suspension question.

*damn*

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