Start of by saying I have an 88 10th anniversary rx7
built motor once pineapple large street port, mild exhaust port ra super seals. ran great. Went big turbo route with apexi power fc. Turndown manifold, 2 40mm turbo smart waste gates, bore Warner s366 turbo, 340lph fuel pump, injector dynamic id 2000 secondary injectors stock 550 primary. S6 fd upper intake manifold Car ran for 2 hours great after big turbo then had major flooding racked my brain about this asked around here everyone said tune related. Its not tune related cause my buddy has exact same setup as me and his car runs fine. Same tune and all so I'm thinking okay something is not right im getting fuel by my rotor seals. So tear the motor down again only after maybe 4000km of rebuild. Find 6 of the 12 rubber inserts on the corner seals gone. Okay fine order solid non recessed corner seals send irons out for lapping. Housing out to be re done little bit of chatter wear. New bearings all around put motor back together and. Go to start the car. Same thing. Can start it not very good throttle response afrs seem okay for a bit then the lean out after a while. It's flooding like crazy drop oil and full of fuel. Go through all the wiring on fuel system can't find anything. I guess what I'm asking is could my circut opening relay be stuck open and be cause the flooding problem I thought leaky injector bought new bosh 550 and still same thing. Been though vacuum leaks ect ect. Tps is wired properly. Running fd igniter may be I wired that wrong Couldn't find a good description on how to do it. Any ideas ?

 

Oil smelling of fuel is not a good indicator of how rich the car is running.
1. It's a turbocharged rotary. There will be blow-by no matter how tight you built it.

2. These cars have extremely large oil coolers. Unless you're evacuating the cooler of all the fuel laden oil, you're not getting any good indication from just checking the oil (unless your oil level is going up rapidly.)

Are you sure your wideband is functioning properly? Oxygen sensors are extremely fragile, very sensitive to any resistance in their wiring, and they do get lazy with age.

Have you done an injector leakdown test? Easy to do with a fuel pressure gauge.

Assuming everything fuel/compression related checks out...

Are you getting good fuel burn?
What do your plugs look like?
How old are they?
Are they the right heat range for your application?
What condition are the wires in?
Are the grounds good on your ignition system?

 

Injectors are good have tried 2 brand new sets. Same problem wide band is all good 2 sets of brand new brq'9's brand new wires. I've been through everything mechanically it has to be wiring somewhere or relay or module that has failed just don't know where to begin looking

 

Also have done fuelnpressure test holding at 35psi

 

Are the plugs wet?

 

Yes trailing plugs only seem to be wet

 

i'm just going to throw a few random thoughts out there to you ....

did you ever get actual numbers for the compression? i know it's a fresh engine, but it can't hurt to know. that said, the one thing i have to be a bit skeptical on is your reasoning that your friend's car runs fine with the tune, so you car should run the same.

what plugs are you running? have you confirmed adequate spark?

are the intake ports highly polished? manifold runners?

maybe try cranking the pressure up a bit and retune???

 

110psi on each rotor face intake ports are polished manifold not. I had the tune running on my car before and something messed off and put car into like a limp mode (couldn't rev past 3000 car would flood out and quit) ok tear motor down find 6 of 12 corner seal inserts gone. Compression was still 98 on each rotor face. Fast forward a couple of years finally get around to building motor send out have everything relapped re surfaced re clearanced solid non recessed corner seals cause lapped irons. Go to start car no start. Mess around with coils plugs wires ect ect wires and plugs all brand new brq 9's still no start Ok replace crank angle sensor and re do fuel switch wiring ok car starts and runs. Smokes like a pig floods it self dies. Ok pull plugs de flood only front rotor plugs wet. Leaky injector thoughts. Go buy brand new injectors bosh 550cc. Start the car runs worse now. Pull plugs de flood again now both rotors are saturated. De flood go to start car again hard starting / doesn't want to run at all. Now on previous motor I ran a jumper on on my fuel pressure tester harness im wondering if this maybe. Messed up my circuit opening relay or something else is burnt up in my wiring somewhere. Its 100% a wiring issue I've been through everything motor wise. And my buddys car is identical set up same climate elevation ect ect. But me and him are both scratching our heads at this point

 

well, is your friend local to you? if so, why not try going through his car and compare the wires that you suspect are wrong?

 

Have you check your sensors? In particular, the coolant thermo sensor. After replacing the clutch on my '88 Turbo II (this was like back in the early 90s), the car started like junk and ran very rich (black smoke coming out the tail pipes). Towed it to Mazda, a week and $450 later, it was a $45 thermo sensor. I guess it somehow got damaged during the clutch replacement. The thing that made it hard to troubleshoot was how intermittent it was. Good luck.

 

If you take out the cas and spin by hand to the plugs all fire?

 

all plugs fire checked spark as i modified trailing coil with fd igniter