MAJOR cooling help NEEDED
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 187
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From: orlando fl
MAJOR cooling help NEEDED
My car will fun fine (hopefully) and the temp guage will be normal at 1/4 of the guage. Then after a while of driving it will increase temp and overflow the overflow bottle. This happened with a empty bottle at start up
I want to know what to change so I dont have to add water everytime I drive. The coolant leaves the overflow bottle through the air hole in the top.
ALso the add coolant light will come on and if i rev a little it will go away ????
I am completly clueless and need major help
soon.
I want to know what to change so I dont have to add water everytime I drive. The coolant leaves the overflow bottle through the air hole in the top. ALso the add coolant light will come on and if i rev a little it will go away ????
I am completly clueless and need major help
soon.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 724
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From: 195 Miles West of Bridgeport, WA
Is the fan you have working properly? Blowing lots of air?
Does the exhaust smoke a lot on startup or does the exhaust smell sweet?
You should have the overflow bottle filled up to full when the car is cold...
Check to see if the radiator has any leaves or something stuck to the front of it or in between the a/c condenser and radiator that might block airflow...
If any of that doesn't fix it then your water pump might be failing or the belt could be loose.
Does the exhaust smoke a lot on startup or does the exhaust smell sweet?
You should have the overflow bottle filled up to full when the car is cold...
Check to see if the radiator has any leaves or something stuck to the front of it or in between the a/c condenser and radiator that might block airflow...
If any of that doesn't fix it then your water pump might be failing or the belt could be loose.
Last edited by MaYnard5000; Mar 4, 2004 at 05:58 AM.
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Sureshot’s Overheating – check list
1) Replace the thermostat. Make sure it fits. The spring loaded disc under the stat valve must close the bypass port, or guess what?
2) Replace the radiator cap. Low pressure = steam bubbles = spit out coolant.
3) Look for leaks. (same symptoms as #2) Some can be very hard to find. You may have to pressure test it. A common failure spot is the 3/8” coolant line that runs from the top of the rear housing (under the intake runners) to the throttle body, to the BAC, to the water pump. Another one is the heater hose under the oil filter.
4) The fan clutch will slowly start slipping as it ages. The fan should pull really hard up to about 4k when the motor is hot. It should maintain about 4k as the motor revs higher. Sometimes you can get more life from it by bending outward the bi-metal strip on the front of the fan clutch. The cut-in for the series 4 fan clutch is gradual – it pulls some even when cold. The series 5 fan clutch is more on/off.
The seal between combustion gasses & water jacket is a rubber O-ring in a groove all the way around the aluminum housing.
If it leaks you get coolant in the combustion chamber and overheating symptoms, just like a blown head gasket in a piston engine.
I have had this happen, and was able to patch it with radiator stop leak.
I caught it early, before there was too much erosion of the O-ring.
The short version:
Hard to start, catches & sputters, blows white smoke, then clears up & runs OK.
To fix:
Good coolant flush, add half the stop leak, idle warm up to full temp, shut off & cool down cold, (repeat)
Do a search under "block weld".
Many have had good luck with that product & there is a good write up on the forum using it.
1) Replace the thermostat. Make sure it fits. The spring loaded disc under the stat valve must close the bypass port, or guess what?
2) Replace the radiator cap. Low pressure = steam bubbles = spit out coolant.
3) Look for leaks. (same symptoms as #2) Some can be very hard to find. You may have to pressure test it. A common failure spot is the 3/8” coolant line that runs from the top of the rear housing (under the intake runners) to the throttle body, to the BAC, to the water pump. Another one is the heater hose under the oil filter.
4) The fan clutch will slowly start slipping as it ages. The fan should pull really hard up to about 4k when the motor is hot. It should maintain about 4k as the motor revs higher. Sometimes you can get more life from it by bending outward the bi-metal strip on the front of the fan clutch. The cut-in for the series 4 fan clutch is gradual – it pulls some even when cold. The series 5 fan clutch is more on/off.
The seal between combustion gasses & water jacket is a rubber O-ring in a groove all the way around the aluminum housing.
If it leaks you get coolant in the combustion chamber and overheating symptoms, just like a blown head gasket in a piston engine.
I have had this happen, and was able to patch it with radiator stop leak.
I caught it early, before there was too much erosion of the O-ring.
The short version:
Hard to start, catches & sputters, blows white smoke, then clears up & runs OK.
To fix:
Good coolant flush, add half the stop leak, idle warm up to full temp, shut off & cool down cold, (repeat)
Do a search under "block weld".
Many have had good luck with that product & there is a good write up on the forum using it.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 187
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From: orlando fl
I just flushed and am wating for engine to cool to put in anti freeze and water
While the engine was running there was a slow leak in the overflow tank once the car got shut off it started to spray out of the air hole??
While the engine was running there was a slow leak in the overflow tank once the car got shut off it started to spray out of the air hole??
it sounds to me like its leaking out because the coolant is getting really hot. When you start the car up do the hoses from the radiator accumulate alot of pressure? If so it is probably your thermostat.
If your thermostat is stuck closed (it does this to warm the car up) then you're just cycling hot coolant through the engine. Get a mazda thermostat if you have pressure building up in the hoses. They're like $18 and it might solve all of your cooling problems. It solved all of mine
If your thermostat is stuck closed (it does this to warm the car up) then you're just cycling hot coolant through the engine. Get a mazda thermostat if you have pressure building up in the hoses. They're like $18 and it might solve all of your cooling problems. It solved all of mine
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