tancred

Well, I had just reassembled my engine, nothing being different then before, installed an e-fan, ditched all emissions, and had new injectors installed. My car was running great, It was idling up to temp and I was checking for leaks of any kind. I backed out of the driveway, headed up the street, the minute I applied throttle the whole car shook and then died, the lights and radio were still on, but I tried to crank it and nothing, I get out, pop the hood, and the Main fuse is blown. I change the fuse, the second I reconnect the battery the fuse pops again.

Nothing was changed in the electrical system. Idled fine. The only thing that happened was My alternator round ground looking nut touched my IC and sparked before I got the car running, so maybe it toasted the fuse just enough so the car could start and run, and then perhaps it couldnt handle the load from the throttle, but then why would the new fuse blow?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

You say that you removed Emissions from the car..you should look at the wiring..you will be lookin for anything that you took off ..wires being exposed or rubbing..causing a short..behind the alternator the wires are brittle due to heat..they are often a culprit..if you removed any wires to sensors they should be taped to prevent shorting ..look for any "burn" marks on the metal areas around the wiring harness on the engine..It's a short..and it is one that is due to the motor moving back and forth and the Exposed wiring hitting somewhere..the trick is finding it..GOOD LUCK..oh ya ,,insulate that area you were talkin about ..rubberize it somehow

tancred

Whats weird is, I can get it to idle fine this morning, with a new fuse. But any throttle input and KABLOOEY!

Alex6969

you could open the hood with a new fuse in and rev the motor from the throttle body and look for the spark. Probably not the safest or smartest way, but it'll give you an idea

Nitrometano

I will try to do my best on english:

To know if you car have a short do the following:

Disconnect the positive cable from the battery.

Touch the + baterry post with the cable, if every time you touch you heard and see a spark, there is an accesory draining current.

To solve it begins disconnecting one fuse at time and do the baterry post test that I mention. If still spark with that fuse disconnect. Remove another fuse. You need to get no spark. In the fuse that you will get spark. There is a problem. For example the clock, ECU and radio are draining current all the time. This are the first fuses that you will need to disconnect and you will not get spark at the battery post. Then try with the another fuse.

To test the battery cables for short. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Then use a test light and connect the light one end to the negative battery post and the other end to the chassis ground. Is the test light illuminate, there is a problem. That means that the positive current are passing to the engine chassis. This can cause by an open cable, positive cable touching the chassis, touching another negative cable, starter positive cable broken touching ground. Check also the alternator postive cable for damage.

This are simple test that I do to solve problems. I found one that one Mercedes Benz has a short caused by the radio remote signal to the electric antenna. The radio keep sending the signal until he drain the battery. One 911 Porsche have the problem that blowm fuses and drain the battery. There was two problems founds. The first one was that the radio remote signal was keeping the amplifier in on position all the time. The another one was the battery positive cable(that runs from the front to the rear of the car) has his cover broken and toucing the ground at the place were it came out from the interior cabin to the engine. In another case, a Cadillac was found that the fuse blowing was caused by the glove box light switch. In another Porsche 911, the short was caused by the interior light positive cable toucing the chassis. Etc. Etc. Etc.

tancred

Turned out that on a NA alternator the Positive out is facing up, and even with the rubber boot grounding out on my intercooler. I re-clocked the post and all is fixed.