hypothermix79

I did a search for maf in general. and only relocation q's were about putting them in the IC duct. I tested it and it works. Its the trap door model on an 87TII. The only bend is a 90* bend and there is alot more room than with a stock tid and there is a more direct path staight to the turbo. Would there be any problems from continuing to run it this way? It keeps the MAF level and sits sturdy.heres a pic
http:/home.comcast.net/~agdrae21/MVC-024S.JPG

Ottoman

looks alright to me since u have the filter itself fairly far away from the turba aka heat source...

i dunno if the heat of the turbo soaking the aluminum body of the MAF itself would do anything , maybe someone else can comment on that.. dunno how sensitive those electronics are in the MAF.. but it gets pretty damn hot near that area...


U have an FCD so the extra air/boost comin in wont cause u to hit fuel cut.. freeing up the exhaust and intake on our cars really makes a difference.. just make sure u don't lean out in those upper Rpms...

u could consider fabbing up a Heat sheild to isolate the cone filter, and get one of the vented headlight covers and u'll be all set

hypothermix79

Have the RB full TII exhauast. yeh a heat sheild is on the list.

ilike2eatricers

Hmmmm I'd be worried about overheating/damaging the AFM. I would think you want the filter right before the AFM. Wouldnt the air being sucked lose velocity by being farther away from the filter?

hypothermix79

If it were a CAI the filter would be about a foot away. with even more bends to slow velocity. if it were slowed the MAF would measure slower velocity and send a signal of lower velocity as well so I don't see how that effects anything.

hypothermix79

The heat thing is my main concern. It does get a descent amount of airflow from the fan.

Ottoman

i was worried about the heat too, but i thought about it further

because all the air is passing through the center of the MAF, in essence it's coolin the MAF at the same time the MAF is metering the air.. but i wonder with the maf soakin up all the heat from around that area.. is it goin to further heat up the air enter the engine then if u were make the pipe long from the turbo to the MAF, and then stick the filter right on top so the filter and maf are both far away from the turbo and only the plastic pipe (which wont retain heat like a metal) will be near the heat

RETed

One, do you realize how much the engine torques over just be revving it?
You should try it.
I've seen it shift over 2" each way very easily.
This kinda engine movement will cause headaches - see below.

Two, I don't see clamps on everything.
This means connections will work itself loose - see above.

Three, is the filter just laying there?
If so, due to movement of the engine, you'll end up with holes in the air filter - don't ask me how I know this. :P


-Ted

hypothermix79

I know this is kina old but I never replied. The clamps weren't on in the picture I had just finished up and hadn't got to that yet . The filter is kinda pointing up and isn't touching anything. I did put some foam under where I thought it might rub on the bottom. I've had one rub almost through before. I't is still working and have had no problems with it. I have a local drift event in june so I'll see how it holds up there. I won't need the maf for too much longer though.

Icemark

the other drawback is the vibration of the motor. If you look at the way the stock AFM is mounted, there is almost no vibration from the motor transmitted to the AFM.

So the AFM lasts much longer and is much less likely to get out of calibration.

NZConvertible

Why anyone would think bolting a sensitive electronic instrument to a hot vibrating engine okay is completely beyond me. There's more to think about that just flow characteristics. Apart from the fact that a proper TID would flow better due to the more gradual bend, this is a surefire way to shorten your AFM's life significantly.