wizzurp

iTrader: (6)

Ok, so I figured out I had an s5 throttle body with only the wideband, got an s4 throttle body with tps on the car and I'm still having similar issues. Here is a link to what it looks like when driving around. Having the idle set lower just worsens the issues, the tps is adjusted to right around 1k ohms at idle, not sure where to go from here. I checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. Tested the afm, checked out, replaced the o2 sensor, and tested the thermosensor for the ecu. I'm at a loss with this thing. Car is an s4 t2 with an s5 t2 swap retaining s4 electronics.
http://youtu.be/fiz-r2L9wOY

wizzurp

iTrader: (6)

Here is a wot video for reference. It seems slow to me, it also has sound fluctuations at higher rpms at full boost. I'm wondering if there is some fuel issues or ignition breakup.
http://youtu.be/v9JcaXTqrLw

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

I am guessing your fuel gauge doesn't work...?

wizzurp

iTrader: (6)

Correct, it's full.

bumpstart

you may have to trim the TPS adjust even further ,, as your loom may have a bit of inbuilt resistance now its old and shitty


being sure rpm is LESS than 1000 rpm on the throttle stop adjust FIRST
then may have to set it up with the set couple bridged /earthed and just wind in the TPS adjust slowly ( closing the switch poT )
you will know the instant it gets it right because the idle will usually steady out
,, and car will rev without fluff/stumble cause the acel pump timing is now correct

wizzurp

iTrader: (6)

Just to clarify, wouldn't winding the screw in raise the resistance?

bumpstart

depends what pair of wires you measure ,, its a reostat

winding ( clockwise ) on the adjust closes the switch more ,, lessening the resistance seen between pins A and B to be less than 1 k ohm
( as described in the turbo training supplement which i scanned and is now avail on fox,net , page 4B-84 )
pins A and B just happen to be green/red ( signal ) and black/red ( earth )

obviously ( being a reostat wiper ) then measuring pins A ( signal ) and C ( 5V ) would give a resistance of 6K ohm - 1 k ohm = 5 k ohm ( +/- 1K )
and thus show voltage around 1 V at pin A
( which co-relates nicely with the "voltage" method of TPS cal )

clearly you have the throttle stop wound right up for the engine to idle so high
do not pass go till you get the rpm down to a reasonable level
( around 700 at the throttle stop with the BACv unplugged )

this is merely to bring the adjustments into spec so you can then use the FSM

having it wound up so fast is only crippling you in setting up a proper TPS cal,, and sit s the ecu at a range where it thinks the motor is in decel and not idle


pages 4B-114 and 115 give you the method of setting the idle up
1-- bridge or earth the set couple connector by the L coils and check and adjust throttle sensor ( as above ),
2- remove blind cap from BACV valve and adjust screw till rpm = 720-775 rpm
( obviously NA only have a throttle stop and no adjust at the BACv )

if you leave the rpm at 1500,, 2000 rpm or anything more than 775 rpm on the throttle stop then FAIL

3- remove the set couple bridge/earth
( written thus to cover bases that some looms indeed have a 2 pin set couple connection,, of which one side is already earthed,, so you bridge it )

wizzurp

iTrader: (6)

Just thought it was funny, the source of my troubles was something I caused myself. I pulled the CAS and spun it over after noticing that there was fuel in my number two secondary LIM runner. Turns out I had my number two primary injector plug connected to my number two secondary injector. That explains the normal wot and abnormal everything else...
Just thought I would share my dumbass-ness so that others might learn from my mistakes.