LSD for NA
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Old Rotary Dog
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,461
Likes: 2
From: Durham, NC
Okay, I'll save you the cost of a search. There were two stock LSDs that came on a the NA FC. The clutch type (read the FAQ as to which models) and the viscous. The clutch type tended to wear out but could be rebuilt. The viscous was not as good, but tended to easier to maintain (new fluid). The early 90's Miata Torsen unit could also be swapped into the FC diff and was a prettty bomb-proof solution. Not as good (in some peoples opinion) as the clutch type, but better than the viscous and pretty much as bomb-proof.
I currently have an open diff in my FC track car and I seldom notice the difference. A good LSD would probably lower my lap times, but right now it's not the limiting factor (ie. I'm planning it for a future upgrade
).
-bill
I currently have an open diff in my FC track car and I seldom notice the difference. A good LSD would probably lower my lap times, but right now it's not the limiting factor (ie. I'm planning it for a future upgrade
). -bill
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,707
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From: BC, Canada
The TII diffs are bigger and stronger, but that's not needed on an NA car, they don't have the power to need it. Don't bother with an S5 diff, the magic fluid inside that does the work will almost certainly be dead and it'll act as an open diff.
I like my torsen, it feels almost like the stock open diff, but still limits slip. It will act as an open diff if one wheel has little to no traction (on ice, gravel, in the air). Technically it's a torque biasing diff, not a limited slip in the traditional sense. They do not wear out though. A clutch type can handle those situations if it's not worn.
I like my torsen, it feels almost like the stock open diff, but still limits slip. It will act as an open diff if one wheel has little to no traction (on ice, gravel, in the air). Technically it's a torque biasing diff, not a limited slip in the traditional sense. They do not wear out though. A clutch type can handle those situations if it's not worn.
Dork
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Check out Mazdatrix. They sell Kaaz clutch disk LSDs and recently started selling Torsen types as well. If you are going to drift your car continuously, then you may want a clutch type. If you are going to drive on the street at all, go with a torque bias (mechanical) type. The friction clutch types are noisy and abrupt, but can be adjusted for wear and so are good for abusive use like dedicated drifting. This is based off of the results of my own research into the matter, anyway. Find out the facts first hand and then make your choice is the best advice anyone can give.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
You would have to use the entire LSD and half-shafts from a turbo car, not to mention make a custom driveshaft. Or you could use a turbo tranny (including clutch/flywheel assembly) plus a turbo driveshaft in place of the custom driveshaft.
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
It depends on what you want to do. Personally I visited this yesterday.
If you are going to stay under 250hp stick with the non-turbo housing (NA and GXL) and get yourself a S2000 Torsen LSD for under $250. They are everywhere, check honda-tech and watch ebay carefully. You can also go the miata route, but those are more expensive and more fragile, two bads IMHO, hence not worth it.
If you are going to up the horsepower and go with 300,350,400 plus HP, then you need to switch to the Turbo housing, turbo axles, and strong mounts of some kind (mazdaspeed, hard, poly, faux-snubber, whatever). Into this pumpkin you add the FD torsen diff and a 4.3 or 4.1 gear set and you are ready to go.
For my track-beater / current daily driver I'm going to use: FD torsen diff, 4.30 gears, turbo axles, turbo housing, mazdaspeed mounts, floor mounted safety snubber.
I think this is the best solution for the money because clutch type diffs result in a locking situation which is not always optimal. Please don't read this wrong: It can be optimal, but for one it has to be tuned to what the car does, and thats just a real pain in the butt for a daily driver where the Torsen technology handles that junk for you. If you want oversteer, leave it to suspension and motor, not the driveline. Just my personal rant anyways.
If you are going to stay under 250hp stick with the non-turbo housing (NA and GXL) and get yourself a S2000 Torsen LSD for under $250. They are everywhere, check honda-tech and watch ebay carefully. You can also go the miata route, but those are more expensive and more fragile, two bads IMHO, hence not worth it.
If you are going to up the horsepower and go with 300,350,400 plus HP, then you need to switch to the Turbo housing, turbo axles, and strong mounts of some kind (mazdaspeed, hard, poly, faux-snubber, whatever). Into this pumpkin you add the FD torsen diff and a 4.3 or 4.1 gear set and you are ready to go.
For my track-beater / current daily driver I'm going to use: FD torsen diff, 4.30 gears, turbo axles, turbo housing, mazdaspeed mounts, floor mounted safety snubber.
I think this is the best solution for the money because clutch type diffs result in a locking situation which is not always optimal. Please don't read this wrong: It can be optimal, but for one it has to be tuned to what the car does, and thats just a real pain in the butt for a daily driver where the Torsen technology handles that junk for you. If you want oversteer, leave it to suspension and motor, not the driveline. Just my personal rant anyways.
Banned
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Using a torsen LSD how does it fair for drifting against a clutch type LSD? Why is vlsd always looked down upon? Is there any advantages to vlsd over torsen and/or clutch type? Sorry for thread jacking a bit, but the topic creator asked a vague question and it gave me ideas on which routes I have.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: BC, Canada
Since when is the Miata torsen fragile? I'm pretty sure it's the same as the S2000 one, because why would they build two different ones that are entirely compatible, but one's better? They did build two different versions, the T1 and T2 types and I'm not talking about that, as both types can be gotten from Miatas.
For drifting you'll want a fairly tight clutch type to keep the wheels turning together, but you can use other types too.
VLSD's are looked down upon because they aren't servicable and the magic fluid in them breaks down with use and it'll eventually approximate an open diff. They're popular in OEM applications because they're very smooth.
For most people a Torsen is the best thing, but for drag or drift a clutch type is better. Sometimes in road racing or autocross people prefer a clutch type, but that's more just personal preference rather than one being superior.
For drifting you'll want a fairly tight clutch type to keep the wheels turning together, but you can use other types too.
VLSD's are looked down upon because they aren't servicable and the magic fluid in them breaks down with use and it'll eventually approximate an open diff. They're popular in OEM applications because they're very smooth.
For most people a Torsen is the best thing, but for drag or drift a clutch type is better. Sometimes in road racing or autocross people prefer a clutch type, but that's more just personal preference rather than one being superior.
Right
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: BC, Canada
Info here: http://www.torsen.com/products/products.htm
Old Rotary Dog
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,461
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From: Durham, NC
Great info - thanks for the link. I didn't realize the later diffs were compatible. It would seem that the T1 unit would be preferable for a race car, unless the Miata T2 is actually a T2R. Does anyone know?
More importantly - does anyone know where I can score a Miata unit for under $400?
-b
More importantly - does anyone know where I can score a Miata unit for under $400?
-b