sidewaysKA

Are there suspension alingment problems when lowering a fc (such as excessive negative camber, etc)? What is considered maximum amount to lower a fc?

1FastT2

iTrader: (1)

Sure there are expecially in the rear. You just have to buy adjustable camber plates for the front and a rear camber adjuster bar in the rear if you plan on lowering it alot.

Mr. Eccentric

You'll run into geometry problems if you lower it more than about 1 inch. Unless you go with full coil overs and camber plates, just drop it mildly for the best results. These guys in Hiroshima work out bump steer, jounce and all that cak for us, so anything extreme will set off a chain reaction of poor and skittish handling qualities.

I think the best upgrade for the money is to get some rear steer eliminator bushings. Maybe drop it with some RB springs, and you're on rails.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I've dropped It 1.5'' (B&G Lowering Springs) along with the RB Rear Eliminator bushings and have no complaints. Mind you all our rears are negatively cambered to begin with but I noted no additional negative camber but very noticable handling after these Installs.

jwall

iv lowered it 1.3 on generic gabrial gas shocks

where can u get the camber plates? and whay do the rear bushings do?

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

The Rear Suspension Camber Adjuster is an adjustable link that replaces the stock, fixed-length link to allow moderate rear camber changes by tilting the rear suspension subframe. The immediate range of adjustment is .60 degrees less negative camber to .77 degrees more negative camber. With careful inspection and possibly some minor dimpling of the floor pan, this range can be nearly doubled. After installation, adjustments to camber are quickly made. There is virtually no toe change with this adjustment.

On the 1986-92 RX-7s Mazda introduced the Dynamic Tuned Suspension System (DTSS). DTSS allows each wheel to steer by itself based on how many Gs of cornering force the outside wheel is generating. In stock form, cornering forces operating on the rear upright cause up to approximately 1 degree of toe-in on the outside wheel in a turn. This characteristic tends to compensate for driver input or road variations that might cause a vehicle to go out of control. However, this same characteristic also interferes with the feedback that a sensitive driver needs to operate his car near the limit of adhesion and generally reduces the ultimate cornering force.

Our Toe Eliminator - a rigid joint that replaces the stock rubber joint - provides a perceptible improvement in feedback to the driver. There is no longer a need to modulate inputs based on the constantly fluctuating elastic joint output. The kit consists of two (2) rigid plastic sleeves and two (2) steel bushings which should be installed with the aid of a hydraulic press or a large vise. No re-alignment is necessary after installation.

Both can be found at www.racingbeat.com