Low voltage to fuel pump issue
#1
Low voltage to fuel pump issue
Hey guys see if you can help me out. Did searching but nothing...
I have replaced the relay. Before I replaced the relay I had replaced the pump and the filter. But when that failed to work I connected a multimeter to the fuel pump connector and Im only getting 2.5 volts when the key is turned to the "on" possition. and the same when trying to turn the motor over.
Any help would be appriciated.
Thanks guys
I have replaced the relay. Before I replaced the relay I had replaced the pump and the filter. But when that failed to work I connected a multimeter to the fuel pump connector and Im only getting 2.5 volts when the key is turned to the "on" possition. and the same when trying to turn the motor over.
Any help would be appriciated.
Thanks guys
#5
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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The fuel pump works if the ENGINE fuse is good and the key is to ON and the yellow fuel pump check connector is jumpered.
The fuel pump runs if the key is HELD to Start.
The fuel pump runs if the engine is running.
The fuel pump does NOT run if the key is simply put to Start.
The large BLUE wire at the fuel pump connector is the wire that suppleis power to the pump. The black is the ground. The others are non players in the fuel pump working.
The fuel pump runs if the key is HELD to Start.
The fuel pump runs if the engine is running.
The fuel pump does NOT run if the key is simply put to Start.
The large BLUE wire at the fuel pump connector is the wire that suppleis power to the pump. The black is the ground. The others are non players in the fuel pump working.
#6
Sit and Spin
Join Date: Mar 2001
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Well, I guess you found the problem!
Any chance that the ground is not contacting well?
WHat year and model is this car?
I hope you get it running!
P.S. Going to Charlotte tonight to pick up an FC for Julie!
Any chance that the ground is not contacting well?
WHat year and model is this car?
I hope you get it running!
P.S. Going to Charlotte tonight to pick up an FC for Julie!
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#8
I have replaced the main relay in the engine bay and also replaced the circuit opening relay under the dash. Neither worked. I have since ran a hot from the batter with a fuse and switch to manualy operate the pump. This solved the starting issue.
Clearly the issue is the pump not turning on, or the voltage to the pump. So what could it be? I will not leave the pump hardwired like this due to obvious safety issues
Clearly the issue is the pump not turning on, or the voltage to the pump. So what could it be? I will not leave the pump hardwired like this due to obvious safety issues
#9
HAILERS
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The Main Relay has zip to do with feeding the fuel pump. That was a waste of time.
You NEVER say what this car is. A series four or series five.
ANYBODY, even my grandmother could ohm out the Circuti Opening Relay to the fuel pump plug and then the check the gnd wires of the Circuti Opening Relay and the input voltages for that relay, and figure out what the problem is.
Again, the pump does not get voltage just by putting the key to ON.
You pull the Circuit Opening Relay out. You check the BLACK/WHITE wire in the middle of the socket for batt voltage with the key ON.
You check the BLACK'/WHITE wire on the top left (Might be Black/Red depending on the version car) for batt voltage with the key HELD to START.
You check the BROWN wire for a ground of 2-3 ohms (key OFF) with the afm vane moved aft and then again check it with the jumper in the yellow check connector.
You check the BLACK wire for a gnd of 2-3 ohms. Key OFF.
You'd check the BLUE wire for continuity to the fuel pump plug or jumper the Blue to the B/W in the middle of the socket and then check for batt voltage at the Large Blue wire at the fuel pumps plug. One or the other. Key On.
If any of those things does not happen, you fix it.
There is one connector b/t the FRONT and REAR harness that carry the output of the Circuit Opening Relay to the pump. See FSM wiring manual.
You NEVER say what this car is. A series four or series five.
ANYBODY, even my grandmother could ohm out the Circuti Opening Relay to the fuel pump plug and then the check the gnd wires of the Circuti Opening Relay and the input voltages for that relay, and figure out what the problem is.
Again, the pump does not get voltage just by putting the key to ON.
You pull the Circuit Opening Relay out. You check the BLACK/WHITE wire in the middle of the socket for batt voltage with the key ON.
You check the BLACK'/WHITE wire on the top left (Might be Black/Red depending on the version car) for batt voltage with the key HELD to START.
You check the BROWN wire for a ground of 2-3 ohms (key OFF) with the afm vane moved aft and then again check it with the jumper in the yellow check connector.
You check the BLACK wire for a gnd of 2-3 ohms. Key OFF.
You'd check the BLUE wire for continuity to the fuel pump plug or jumper the Blue to the B/W in the middle of the socket and then check for batt voltage at the Large Blue wire at the fuel pumps plug. One or the other. Key On.
If any of those things does not happen, you fix it.
There is one connector b/t the FRONT and REAR harness that carry the output of the Circuit Opening Relay to the pump. See FSM wiring manual.
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-13-08 at 07:43 AM.
#12
HAILERS
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Series five is different that the series four I posted a jpg of. So I'll revise it a bit.
I would pull the Circuit Opening Relay and probe it, but with some differences since all the series five have a Fuel Pump Relay. You can ID the fuel pump relay, by it having a metal ribbed body. I've no jpg of it here.
In fact, that might be a better place to start. It's in front of the afm/filter assy. Move that afm/filter out of your way. Then pull the plug off the Fuel Pump Relay.
Now go jumper the fuel pump check relay. It's yellow, two sockets and near the afm/filter and boost sensor area. Jumper it with a piece of wire.
Now key to ON. Then go to that Fuel Pump Resistor Relay (called Fuel Pump Relay in the jpg attached). See if the Blue/Red wires have batt voltage or not. They should and probably will. I should have mentioned that you need the Circuit Opening Relay fully installed to do this.
If it has batt voltage on those Blue/Red wires (3), then it's probably a bad Fuel Pump Relay. To prove that, you can jumper any one of the Blue/Red wires to the Blue/Green wires in that plug. Just a piece of wire bare at each end. One end in one of the Blue/Red and the other end in one of the Blue/Green. Now, if the key is still to ON, the fuel pump should run or you can check the power at the ..............Blue/Green wire at the fuel pump plug. On a series four it's just a pure blue wire. ON series five it seems to have changed color to Blue/Green.
Any way, see how things turn out and write back. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
I threw in two jpgs. Same thing with both, just one is a little clearer.
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-13-08 at 04:04 PM.
#14
HAILERS
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I don't have a series five but do have a series four turbo that has this item. I'm ASSUMING the series five has it in the same location. IF someone KNOWS that this a fallacy, then say something now, please. I'll take a picture of my series four turbos.
EDIT: Here's a jpg. Mines not mounted quite like the original, but that is the area where it should be. You might have to remove the air filter to see it better. IF one is not there, then look for it's electrical plug. I think your problem MIGHT be that yours is missing.
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-13-08 at 04:21 PM.
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