My car still seems to have a low idel, around 300-400 rpm, when I shift it into drive, the idel spikes up to 600-700 then drops way way down when its done shifting into gear, to around 300, sometimes causing it to die.

I have done the following to try to correct this.

New spark plugs,
New oil / oil filter.
Fuel injector cleaner.
Cleaned the bac valve.
Checked to make sure it was not the tranny "it is not"
Cleaned the throttle body.

I have TRYED to adjust the idel speed with the screw and the fuel air mixture as well, but it doesnt work. I did jumper the intial set coupler while trying it, no luck, maybe I did it incorrectly or something. The idel does go DOWN when I turn it down but it will only go up to 300-400, itll go down to the point the engine dies though.


Mods/ problems.- Cats removed, 2 inch down pipe, 2 glass packs. exhaust downpipe or manifold has a leak in it.


The car has approx 125k miles on it.
Any help as to how to fix my low idel / dieing problem would help. The last post I made didnt work out well.

 

Does the idle sound smooth or lumpy?

 

In detail "Cleaned the throttle body" = ?

Check the secondary plate adjust screw. You shouldn't ever need to touch this, but its a last resort. Expect a very long process of minute screw turns until you find the sweet spot between low idle and lumpy idle.

Also... moving the idle air/fuel screw OUT will raise idle, screwing it in will lower idle. Blah blah, only do it when the engine is warm (so as not compensated by the BAC) and the ISC is jumped.

...and WTF haven't you checked the air filter yet?

 

To fix your problem: get a manual transmission.

 

I checked the air filter, looked pretty clean to me. I wouldnt think it would have this affect, as the car still revs to 7k rpm with no problems, no hesitation or nothing.


Cleaned the throttle body = took the intake hose off, made sure there wasnt a ton of dust on the blades, made sure they turned, cleaned it with carb cleaner.

What secondary plate adjust screw? and do I need to jumper the ISC to do it?

 

getting a stick would requir alot of work to swap em....

If I was gonna get a stick I would just drop a whole 13RE + drivetrain in it or a 20b, sadly I dont have the money for eaither right now.

Also the idel is pretty smooth, it doesnt shake or anything.

 

Its on the front of the throttle body. There should be no reason to touch it unless you previously have. Touching this screw will forever curse you with intermittant lumpy idle however. Use sparingly!

Also, I used to idle around 100-200, barely got the needle above the zero mark. It ran smooth, but it took 15 seconds at WOT to get in the powerband, lol.

 

there is a idle screw on TOP of the throttle body, didnt see any on the front part "I am assuming you are talking about near the part that moves the top 2 blades?

 

Thats the one. thers a lock nut on it, if you don't loosen it first, you'll never be able to turn it.

 

Wow, are you serious? A stick conversion can be done in a weekend...

But whatever, back to your topic, I'll stop thread jacking.

 

I could do it in a couple hours now that I've done it once before... That said...

It can be done in a couple hours. That doesn't mean it will be however.

 

Its more the problem of spending $400 on something that isnt "needed" at this time, I really doubt the auto tranny would cause it to idle low.

 

I tryed using the plate adjust "has a screw with a spring betwen the 2 plates of metal.

No luck.....

 

hmmm come on someone has to of had this problem before and fixed it....

I dont get why upping the idle screws doesnt help any

 

Turning the idle adjust screw will do nothing unless you jumper the initial set coupler.

 

does it do it switching from park to reverse? or to anything elts but D. could be tranny!or tranny fluid! one other thing check compression. i donno what u have to do to do that but u may need a rebuild soon!

 

just add a lil gas when you're putting it in gear to get to like the 1.5k mark. muhaha

 

Lol sar, that is what I have been doing at stops, it dies at stops sometimes if I just let it idle on its own. So I have to pwoer brake.

Tooth, it shifts semi hard into R, not to bad into D or 1/2 but its idle is just funky is all.

When I first start the car up in the day, I can let it idle for 2 mins without driving it and it will idle PERFECT, 750-850ish. If I drive it for even 1 min, it drops down to 400ish... So not sure whats going on.