Low Boost, High Idle, funny pulsing. searched
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Low Boost, High Idle, funny pulsing. searched
I've searched so I know how to adjust the TPS and so forth, and how to test it but i don't have an ohm meter first off (I'll borrow one or something if need be) but I want to know some things first:
1. I replaced the BAC hose and it still had a high idle. The new hose is a little too short so I'll be getting again a new hose that fits perfectly, but could that be what is affecting my boost?
2. My idle is around 2.5k-3k which is really really high and I'm not sure if it could be anything else besides BAC.
3. I'm going to clean my exhaust soon, could a clogged exhaust cause a higher idle or the funny fluctuations?
What do the pros think it is, and what should I do to fix it?
1. I replaced the BAC hose and it still had a high idle. The new hose is a little too short so I'll be getting again a new hose that fits perfectly, but could that be what is affecting my boost?
2. My idle is around 2.5k-3k which is really really high and I'm not sure if it could be anything else besides BAC.
3. I'm going to clean my exhaust soon, could a clogged exhaust cause a higher idle or the funny fluctuations?
What do the pros think it is, and what should I do to fix it?
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Yes. Some days it starts off at 1.5 and then warms up to 3k... Could it be the TB mod? (it still idled at like 1.5-2.2k before hte TB mod. I didn't run the coolant hose through the TB or those pipes near the BAC, it just goes straight to the housing underneath the UIM.
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Ok replaced my temp replacement BAC valve and my idle dropped down to 1.5-2k which has been generally normal. since I got it its been between 1-2k at idle on average.
In the meantime I was attempting to fix the puffing noise in my exhaust (light backfiring kinda thing). I pulled off my cat from the catback without separating it from the downpipe fully, and the downpipe sorta just fell off. a tragedy right? now I have to go get an aftermarket downpipe please no! i didn't want to get rid of that nasty OEM one...
on a serious note, I blocked up the EGR from my cat with a piece of metal duct taped to the hose and clamped around it. (temp thing until i can block of the EGR in the engine bay with plates and never worry about the hose under my car again) Any bad side effects from blocking off the hose under the car?
My boost problem is fixed I think, it is at least better. is it supposed to boost through the full meter? I'm not really sure.
Thanks. I'll replace the rest of the hoses when I get my EGR plates in, and can garage my rex.
In the meantime I was attempting to fix the puffing noise in my exhaust (light backfiring kinda thing). I pulled off my cat from the catback without separating it from the downpipe fully, and the downpipe sorta just fell off. a tragedy right? now I have to go get an aftermarket downpipe please no! i didn't want to get rid of that nasty OEM one...
on a serious note, I blocked up the EGR from my cat with a piece of metal duct taped to the hose and clamped around it. (temp thing until i can block of the EGR in the engine bay with plates and never worry about the hose under my car again) Any bad side effects from blocking off the hose under the car?
My boost problem is fixed I think, it is at least better. is it supposed to boost through the full meter? I'm not really sure.
Thanks. I'll replace the rest of the hoses when I get my EGR plates in, and can garage my rex.
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#8
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I think you're talking about the split air pipe that runs to the cat from the air control valve. If you still have a cat, you need the fresh air from that hose, if no cat, cool, get rid of it. You guys don't have emission testing up there in Austin?
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we do. but i got it tested before i did this. and a good ol 20 gets you past emissions here. And if i need fresh air in that pipe, then why is it connected to the body of the cat? thats not fresh air... by get rid of it do you mean just leave it wide open? because that makes no sense. I'd be sucking up unfiltered air wouldn't i?
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The pipe that goes to the cat supplies it with fresh air from the air pump, the EGR has _nothing_ to do with that split air pipe.
The EGR will be on the center housing if your car has one. The split air pipe connects to (I stand to be corrected on this one) the ACV.
Also I think full scale deflection on the boost guage is much higher than stock is it not?
The EGR will be on the center housing if your car has one. The split air pipe connects to (I stand to be corrected on this one) the ACV.
Also I think full scale deflection on the boost guage is much higher than stock is it not?
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oh. so I should unplug it then wayne? I have it capped off right now. I'm not sure I understand what the heck that pipe is doing. is it an emissions thing to try to diffuse the pollutants a little more with fresh air? or to keep them moving through the cats using air flow?
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And yes. Since I got it it's been idling from 1-2k. progressively worse. started around 1k then built a little as weather heated up. I changed oils too and such.
#15
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that split air pipe that is running from your air pump to your cats is there to supply fresh air to the catylitic converters so they can reburn any unused fuel that would affect emissions.
James
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But seeing as how I don't have any cats. should I plug up that end? or leave it free. the air pump is below my passenger headlight too right? I want to remove that. There is also a random hose that sticks down under my car under the passenger headlight that isn't connected to anything. is that normal?
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just rip the entire pipe out from under the car...it is no longer needed. You can also rip out the airpump which is the cylindrical thing on the passenger side that has a belt running it, its huge so u cant miss it. you might want to get a dual belt altenator pulley though because i heard that the water pump will slip if you remove the airpump and belt.
James
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