rico05

Ok, I installed my RB header and presilencer today. Took me 6 hours to do, in the ******* rain and cold. Anyway, I also removed my ACV. Now my check engine light is on all the time. Is this normal? Next, as I removed the 4 bolts that hold on the stock exhaust manifold, 2 of them got stripped. So I only have 2 bolts holding it on. 1st question: Because those bolts got stripped, are any bolts ever going to fit in that hole, or is it destroyed? 2nd Question: I have 0 power and I can hear the exhaust louder in the engie bay than from the rear. Is this due to the fact that only 2 bolts are holding on the header, and I have a massive leak? Please help. I am tried, hungery, and VER VERY pissed off.

rico05

Help!!!

amemiya

you have a check engine light???

amemiya

sounds like no fun sorry man

rico05

Yes, it turns on in the idiot cluster. I assume it is because of the removed ACV. It has 2 electrical connectors on it, so I beleive the ECU thinks it is broken. I just need confrimation of this.

Ranzo

Ok first off Im not a NA expert at all. 1. The bolt problem, Was it the stud that got stripped out or a bolt? most likely a good Tap and Die set would get you back in to business.

Your power loss is caused by the massive leak around the header. I am assuming that a presilnecer is a silencer before the silencer? anyway is it possible that you removed the Temp probe in the cat or any other sensors. Check for broken wires and vacuum lines and stuff all over the engine. Most likely when you were in there stripping the bolts out and stuff you just broke something off.

rico05

Well, the only thing removed was the ACV. I am pretty sure I know what my problems are, I just need some reassurance. Also, I don't think I will need to tap and die. The bolts were just stripped enough to not go back in. I am pretty sure the holes are fine. I am buying new bolts tomorrow, so we shall see.

rico05

HELP-HELP!!

NZConvertible

Jeez you're a worry Rico!
Did you reinstall the O2 sensor into the new header? Not doing this will definitely bring the Check Engine light. Otherwise it may because of the unplugged electrical connection on the ACV. Measure the resistance at the solenoid's plug (on the ACV) and stick a resistor of similar value on the plug in the engine bay. Same thing with the cat's heat sensor mentioned earlier. The ECU shouldn't know the difference.
Run a die nut over the bolts or just replace them. Don't try to force them. If you can't get your new/repaired bolts in, carefully run a tap up the bolt holes.
YES! Sounds like you didn't use any sealant either.

rico05

No, I just used a new header gasket. I will try some sealant too. Yes, I reinstalled the O2 sensor into the header. I have no clue what you mean by cat temp sensor. I have never seen a sensor on the cat. Hopefully all I need is new bolts, cuz I don't have or know how to use a tap!!!

rico05

Any more comments?

Sniper_X

Im confused here.... but you DONT USE SEALNT on the exhaust manifold gasket.

If the bolts are stripped, and cannot be repaired, you may have to back them out using two nuts clamped against each other.

Once they are backed out, chase the holes with a tap and WD-40.

DO NOT let WD-40 get on the O2 sensor when you put the manifold back on.

You would them need to obtain new studs and re assemble.

Should take a day to remove the studs chase the holes, get the studs installed, and put the exhaust back on.

I have had this happen in addition to breaking an exhaust stud off in the housing.

Granted the engine was out of the car, but you can get almost the same working area by remonginf the intakes.

I know it seems like alot of work, but your be surprised what you can do once you prep right.


You'll take longer to fix the stud with the intakes on than you would having removed them firs, repaired the studs, and reinstalled everything.

This would still be able to be done in a day.

Just remember, any old vaccum hose you remove, replace at the time on re-installation and replace it with new hose.

This is one of my personal rules.
No old vac hoses.

Sniper_X
Always Tinkering.

von

Yes...Use that high temp red rtv stuff or whatever its called. Then before u put the new bolts in make sure u loosen the too and then retiten all of them in a star pattern. ( this prevents warpage and leaks) U probly know this.

I dont have an ACV or air pump but I kept a couple plugs plugged in. I dont know if this helps but the 89 model I heard will not send check lights as easily as the 90 or 91. Someones got to know how to wire in resistors to trick the ecu into thinking its still thier.

NZConvertible

All FC's should have them, it's for the "exhaust overheat" light in the idiot light cluster. Check your FSM, it's in there. Any friendly mechanic (or exhaust shop) should run a die nut over your bolts for free. But he'll probably charge a little bit to tap the bolt holes coz he'll need to put the car on a hoist.

rico05

This sucks, cuz I will have to drive the car to get it fixed!!!! Thanks guys!!

Sniper_X

I say again...

You dont have to use sealant!

The factory never did,
I never have, and theres no need for it.

The factory gasket works perfectly.

MaxRX7

damn rico, you are unlucky !
how in the world did you manage to snap 2 bolts in a 1991 ?
I did everything all by myself on a 1986 with a shitload of miles and only broke one and it was on the tip so I could still use it.


For the ACV, use the block off plate and tighten it with the 3 nuts.
Also you could block off the EGR valve.

basically it is engine/header gasket/header/4bolts, NO sealant !!

then O2 sensor in header attached to wire to engine connector

then header/gasket/pre-silencer/gasket/cat-back.

rico05

Well, I got new bolts today. Hopefully that will help!! Thanks guys!!