losing power at 3500
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Bellevue, NE
I was racing one day and all of a sudden i was just not getting any power whatsoever after 3500 rpms. What is also weird is that it only bogs down really really bad if i have it floored, other than that any other acceleration is pretty much normal.
I think it has something to do with my air/fuel mixture, but i'm not sure. Help me out.
B.T.W. I just put on straight pipe to some cheap mufflers (i'm broke), and took off the air pump, and the ac, and put on an intake
I think it has something to do with my air/fuel mixture, but i'm not sure. Help me out.
B.T.W. I just put on straight pipe to some cheap mufflers (i'm broke), and took off the air pump, and the ac, and put on an intake
Well i have no emissions stuff on my car AT all and i have a blown rear rotor.
The 5th and 6th ports just allow more air to get inside the combustion chamber when you're above 3800 rpm's. that's quite the thing on my blown engine. i actually feel a huge difference when i'm trying to drive it that way.
So no you don't need to remove your 6th port stuff at all.
The 5th and 6th ports just allow more air to get inside the combustion chamber when you're above 3800 rpm's. that's quite the thing on my blown engine. i actually feel a huge difference when i'm trying to drive it that way.
So no you don't need to remove your 6th port stuff at all.
But, Snufelupogus i know what you're saying. that's on the s5-correct me if i'm wrong- version of the 2nd gen. the earlier 6th ports were actuated by exhaust pressure. so if 1986 didn't connect the pressure line it could possibly be the problem. but i'm really a n00b so if i'm totally wrong sombody help out :-) i'm just trying to get smart
yeah on the S4 there is a back pressure line on the main cat which starts to open the aux. ports above 3800 RPM. to get these open again there are a couple of options. first you can get a presilencer from RB, this is probably your best choice IMO, because you keep your fully functioning aux. ports and you're not going to scare the crap out of little old ladies when you drive by (well at least not as badly
).
second, if you were still running your airpump, you could hook up an RPM switch that will supply the required air pressure (2-3 psi) at 3800 RPM. another good choice but only if you are using the airpump, which you are not.
third, you can wire open your aux ports keeping them open at all times. i wouldn't recommend this one because you are going to loose all your low end power and you need as much low end power as you can get when it comes to rotary engines. but, if you do choose this one the actuators are on the lower part of the intake manifold, i know someone has pics of this, and you just tie them open.
good luck.
). second, if you were still running your airpump, you could hook up an RPM switch that will supply the required air pressure (2-3 psi) at 3800 RPM. another good choice but only if you are using the airpump, which you are not.
third, you can wire open your aux ports keeping them open at all times. i wouldn't recommend this one because you are going to loose all your low end power and you need as much low end power as you can get when it comes to rotary engines. but, if you do choose this one the actuators are on the lower part of the intake manifold, i know someone has pics of this, and you just tie them open.
good luck.
Last edited by Phu5ion; Aug 15, 2002 at 02:14 PM.
yeah it might be a blown motor then, but i can't say for sure because i've never gotten to feel what that's like when driving it.
check the compression on the engine and if is blown then it will show up there.
check the compression on the engine and if is blown then it will show up there.
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