I'm having a problem with low oil pressure on a reman engine from Atkins...

The engine has about 1200 miles on it and the problem has only become apparent in the past ~200 miles. So, at initial start, and each oil change, I've checked oil pressure and level (using ~4qts) and been in spec.

According to the FSM oil pressure at 3k RPM should be about 65PSI. According to my factory gauge, I'm running at about 30 PSI at 3K when the engine is warm.

Since the install of the engine, I've changed the oil at 50 miles, 500 miles, and again at 1000 miles. I'm using Mazda filters and Castrol 20w50.

Hopefully this rings a bell with someone and can narrow down my search criteria.
This is an 87 TII

 

i would never trust the stock oil gauge.

Try getting a aftermarket oil guage to test the pressure, or get a pressure gauge tool for oil and test it. With the tool youd have to take out the pressure sending unit which is under the oil filter, and screw in the pressure gauge tool into the fitting and test it.

Sometimes its the wire itself, from the pressure sending unit to the gauge. I replaced the wire on my car and I actually got a 10 psi increase at 3k rpm over the old wire Lolz, and when I tested with a oil pressure gauge it was only 5 psi shy of the stock gauge.

 

I'm going to drive the car to work tomorrow and check pressure at the sending unit.

I was just trying to account for the gradual drop... but I suppose a harness related issue could be the culprit.

 

Somtimes i have 110 Psi of oil pressure... And other times its Way below the zero... I just make sure it has oil and the oil cooler is clean and keep driving...

 

I don't like anything working intermittently. In your case it's probably the sender if it's fluctuating that much.

For the original poster, I'd use an aftermarket gauge and check with that and if it is low, it's probably the o-ring behind the front housing that they have not installed correctly. Very easy to mess up if rushed.
Call Atkins after confirming with a gauge.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

 

My gauge at work is not quite small enough for the Mazda sending unit, however, I was able to take some other methods.

I removed the sending unit and blew in it with compressed air (I'm not trying to pop it), while measuring the resistance through the unit. I was able to determine the sending unit is functioning with no pressure at OFL and pressure would yield resistance.

Next I took the same measurments with the unit installed. I was able to measure ~44 Ohms at 3K rpm and at idle it would drop to ~20 Ohms.

My symptoms are identical to this description (using the factory gauge).

A large "squeeze-out" can give almost zero at idle, and maybe 35-40lbs above 2000rpm.


One other thing to note that could and did create some confusion in gaskets and wich kit I got, was the fact that Dan built me an S5 turbo engine with an S4 front cover (like the engine it replaced).

 

Whether there was confusion or not, the front plate where the o-ring sits is noticeably different. If they used the teflon with o-ring on an S5 front plate, there shouldn't be a problem unless upon install, it squeezed out.

 

Sorry to bring this old thread back, but I've got another question.

How easy would it be to disturb the o-ring upon disassembly? In other words, if I was to pull the front cover and it took quite a bit of effort, is there any chance I could have disturbed the o-ring so that I would be uncertain wether it was the problem?

 

if its the o ring youll see it when you pull it off .The oring should either be sticking out one side of the recess or have a slice in it.Also be careful of the flat washer bearings that they dont fall behind the shim and get crushed when u put the cover back on