vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Kevin Tetz from Trucks! on Spike's Powerblock has a series of DVDs that cover the entire process called Paintucation. You can get the entire set for $225 or just the ones you want for about $40. I havent seen the vids but I've DVR'd several episodes of Trucks! where he does paint and body work and he does a really good job on the show.

Crankshaft Coalition is also full of lots of useful tips.

Creating a paint booth is probably a good idea too.

This is a useful reference site too. http://www.autobodystore.com/home.shtml

This is a great site for seeing how much work really is involved.

But at the end of the day you should be explicit in why you want to do this. If you want to learn to paint and have LOTS of time and are ready to be nickel and dimed to death, then painting your car could be a cool project.

But if you are trying to save a couple of bucks, you might be better off going to Maaco because as a neophyte painter without the right tools and skills, you'll probably end up spending more and end up with a lower quality paint job.

You might see about picking up a front fender at a junk yard (doesnt have to be an RX7) that has dmg similar to what you're car has (dings, scratches, etc). You can probably get it really cheap and then see if you can make it gorgeous in Black as it highlights flaws like nobody's business. If you can be successful with that then multiply the work by 10 and you can decide if you really want to take the plunge!

I have a door in the garage...

Good luck!

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

By pro paint I mean professional paint. It is typically polyurethane. It is usually sold with three components, paint, reducer (solvent) and activator . Reducer comes in various temperature ranges, so that the solvent comes out of the paint at the proper speed depending on your temperatures at the time of application.

The components are mixed in a specified ratio , i.e. 4:1:1 and applied.

THEN you have to decide if you want to use a single stage(glossy shine is part of the color) or if you want to use 2 stage (gloss coat applied over the top of a color coat)

If you go 2 stage, you will be dealing with 3 seperate products, each of which has 3 components. If you are not careful, you can spend lots of money on paint that you don't really know if you can even properly apply.

I am not trying to discourage you. I spent $400 on *paint* alone doing my vert. I used the top quality single stage polyurethane from PPG paints. I built a paint booth with positive pressure filtered air to keep the trash out of the paint-and it worked! I spent an entire fall, from July to December with the car off the road, took my time, 'did it right'. I removed all the lights and trim. Removed the mirrors. I got every ding in both doors, the fenders, the trunk etc *perfect*. That being said, the I am not an experienced painter, my paint gun(s) were low quality and thus the paint itself is much higher quality than my results show. I am not unhappy with my car. At at 10' the car is very nice. When it is freshly washed, I get honks and thumbs up on the road. But if you look up any pics of the vert done by Rob XX 7, you will see a very very very very beautiful paint job. I wouldn't put my car on the same parking lot with his.

I just finished painting an 88 GXL for my son about 10 days ago. The car is a beater, a Canadian car with lots of hail dings, couple of dents and a little rust. The paint was faded, had quite a lot of spots with rattle can primer. I painted it with Rustoleum Professional. I did NO body work, but I did fill in paint chips. I cleaned the car chemically. I wet-sanded with 360 grit. I removed all the lights and trim.

The paint was reduced 4:1 with oderless mineral spirits. 2 coats and it looks pretty dang good for a daily driving beater. In a couple of weeks, I will buff it.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

Do not buy a 5" sander, your paper choices will be very limited.

Buy a 6", portercable makes a good 6" electric sander. Realize that professional DA sanders utilize different sanding patters depending on your level of work, there are finish sanders and body work sanders.

I would also not use sticky paper, it is ancient technology, use a hook and loop system.
This will allow you to change out papers and not waste the piece you are using, and good hook and loop will last at least twice as long as sticky paper. You will also be able to use soft interface pads which come in handy for other aspects of the project.

I am sure there are auto body supply shops in your area, check your phone book, they will carry a line of paint for whatever they sell, be it PPG, DuPont, etc, and there will be a more budget line of paint and primer.

For a car as small as a RX7 dont skimp on the product, after all the hours of work you will put into it splurge for the better paints and even more important is really good primers. Your topcoat will only be good as the primer, primer seals in the bodywork, makes the surface true, and most important is paint and gloss retention.

-Crash-

Rob knows his ****, he sparys awesome black, and black isn't easy lol!

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

*bump*

oh yes its me again

Was looking at the Orbital Sander. Hmm, I wonder if the "powered" one will be as good as the air operated one.

There is a Milwaukee one, operates between 7000-12000 rpm. and comes with a 5 years warranty, it sounds kinda better than most compressed-air based sander (1 year warranty)

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6021...8472889&sr=8-1

It can get the job done, right ?



Thx Rob, for your kind words.

i've been looking at the sander *list* for the past 2 days.

and yes I think there are more 6" sanding paper choices than 5".

Hmm, looks like I need to build a paint station in my garage

there is no way I can paint the car in my garage, guess I gotta take the panels out one by one and work from there.

I know a place locally that use PPG, just not sure if they're going to "sell" me some of the paint.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

wth? I can't edit message ?

Hmm anyway, just noticed that the sander I post on the last post is actually a 5" model. hmm ...

This might be a better model ?

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-3727DEVS...8475270&sr=8-1

but I dunno, I read a lot of reviews on the sanders and it seems that a lot of them die after 2-3 years of use ... I mean I won't be grinding stuff for 2-3 years but I want a tool that last ... so the Milwaukee might be a better choice ?

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

Unless you are thinking about starting to paint for a living then I would suggest hitting up your local tool surplus place (Harbor Frieght).

If you are considering making it a career and you have a bunch of spare time, sign up for some autobody classes at your local vocational school.

Heck, you might luck out and be able to donate your car for a free paint job (you supply materials, class does the labor).

----------------------------

Begin by get a large air compressor with all the goodies (drier - water removal, pressure regulator, etc.). You are going to need it for the following....

Get a pneumatic orbital sander. It doesn't really matter as which one you get, none of them are going to last the full warranty period. Hold onto your receipt.

Then buy a paint gun, don't totally skimp here. (ex: Don't get a power sprayer or some similar ghetto $hit.)

Go to Dupont and tell them what you are going to do, and pick out a color and they'll get you together (primer, paint, clear, cups, filters, sticks, etc). They usually are a good place to go get a price quote, as some of the employees usually paint on the side.

Once you gather these basic tools that you are going to need. Let us know.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

get the portercable, I have some that are close to 10 years old so it will last you a very long time

most of the panels on the car can only be worked so far with a sander anyhow, there are alot of curves on the FC body, even the doors which you might think are flat are not

Check local auto body shops and make arrangements that if you get the car ready they will spray it for you.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

the *sign up to some classes* part sounds interesting, I never thought about that.

Im not doing this for a living ... yet, but it sounds like something interesting to do since I like to work on cars.

I will get all the tools you mention this month.

ok, I will try portercable

thx

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

yah porter cable does last quite a long time, and painting for a living is a hard thing to do. most people dont comprehend the amount of work involved so they see a big quote then find the cheapest place

Nosferatu

Looking around the net others recommended the low profile porter cable orbital(D/A) electric type if you don't have a decent air source for a pneumatic D/A. But Porter-cable only make a 5" in the palm type electric D/A's looking at there website.Here's an example of their higher end hook n loop, defiently a low profile electric which I would guess would be better for use control wise,seems to get good reviews also.

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-3.../dp/B001B2EGLK