ok so Here's my situation, I only spend 17 weeks a year at home, so Car longitivity isn't really a worry for me, i have a bit of money to burn.

The engine i was rebuilding, upon dismantling it i discovered that the housings were completey rooted bolts had seized and all the piping was fugged and would be cheaper to just buy a new engine.

So I'll be ordering a Completely reconditioned 13b-t for a Series 5 and figure seeing as that will only cost me around 2k AUS I figure I may as well do some internal tweaking.


The main reason I'm attracted to Rotories outside the sound they make, is the simple fact that they absolutely LOVE to rev off their guts. and also with Police cracking down on street cars in AUS i need Engine mods that can't be noticed just by looking under the bonnet ie. Big Turbo, FMIC etc etc etc.

So I am setting out to work the insides, It would be greatly appriciated if you could list some mods that would get my stock engine rev'ing to 10'000-11'000 rpm. I'm Already looking around for 2mm Ceramic Apex seals, Performance Rotor Bearings, ordering the engine with a full bridge port (not going for the Monster port it is a street car after all, even the bridge port is a tad much :P) and I'm thinking a new Eccentric shaft will be needed to balance the engine if its rev'ing that high.

Is there anything else I've missed your help would be greatly appriciated.

Peace,
Ika

P.S This car will be a drift car also

 

ok point this out,

first ceramic seals are to pricy and wont lastas long as oem. their more toward the racing end and they are changed every two races or so. i wouldn't do it for a street car, stick with the OEM apex seals their the best.

secondly you can get a bolt on hybrid turbo with a .60 compressor and ported waste gate, clipped tubine fins to increase flow and reduce boost creep, and wont have barely any boost lag for drifting

third upgrade your fuel system with big injectors, lines, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator

secondly a good ems comes in hand, i suggest a microtech since your in aus it might be alot cheaper then here in the states

forth make sure if you bridge port to do a aux bridge port which means porting out the outer irons and you should be good, a full bridge ish to streetable due to bogging and what not and wont last as long truch me i know lol

fifth you gotta have a godly ignition system to be revving that high, plus its pointless unless you have a poriphial port engine, you'll make 8k and good power with this set up and will sound sick with a high flow exhaust system. do alot of research before the work homie it'll save you time money and a head ache

 

Where the heck did you read that?

NRS Ceramic seals are tremendous seals. Here, read: https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/nrs-rotorsports-ceramic-seal-test-results-182522/

Please don't spread mis-information.

The orignial question is about revving to 10K RPM. Thats going to be a problem if you plan on keeping the stock turbo since it begins to drop off even before the stock redline. And even moving to a larger compressor (hybrid) won't change the fact that you're still pumping all that air through the teency weency exhaust housing of the stock turbo.

First we'll cover the internal mods required to rev that high:

-Clearanced rotors (its a compensation for the flex of the e-shaft under high loads from high revs. It removes material from the rotor to prevent contact with the housing during high RPM)
-Balanced rotating assembly (self explanitory)
-oil mods (a vast array and somewhat up to your choosing. The minimal being equalized pressure between front and rear main bearings as well as increased oil pressure. Galley porting etc. I would class as optional)
-A port (in this case a turbo) that can breathe that high up in the rev range.
-Flywheel and clutch combo rated for that speed
-Scatter shield
-EDIT: two piece e-shaft would be a good idea, however not a requirement

Problems with how you want to go about this? There's not much point on a turbo car. Turn up the boost, get the same result (more power) without all the screwing around and with much less risk and reduced engine life. Stock turbo. Even with a compressor to feed the higher revs, any benefit sought by revving that high will choked off after 7500rpm by the itsy-bitsy exhaust housing.

IMHO, if you want to rev that high for the fun of it, full bridge or PP the new 4 port block, make it N/A and do the mods listed. You'll have a +210whp high rev machine without boost.

 

if you've got the money, **** it. go turbo and go high revving. I've been in an FD with a race clearance that could to 10k. It was so awesome... he hit 9400 when I was in there.

 

If you have to ask us, it's not going to happen.

(unless you pay a major rotary tuner $15,000 to do it)

Now, let's all point and laugh.

 

To put it simply, don't. We pull 270+ out of our E-Prod cars using 6 port housings and we generally don't rev above 9.

 

270+! What's your secret? I thought they usually only got to just over 200whp.

 

You need larger ports to get power at the higher rpms. Good thing you have the engine apart anyway. See first item is a street port.

Next, here are some items I've seen on high RPM cars. Only know a few details; this is just what I've seen:
Finely balanced rotors. Racing Beat sells 'em, Mazdatrix does too I think.
Upgrade the rotor bearings.
Raise the oil pressure to give extra support the rotor bearings. ~100psi or so. I'd probably use a good synthetic oil too.
Carbon or ceramic apex seals (?)
I belive you also need to run 9's for your spark plugs all around, but I'm not sure.
Adjust over-rev warning buzzer rpm (search).
Adjust fuel cut-off rpm (search).
Dunno if you need to tune and/or get an ECU to control it at high revs. I'd think you would.

Hopefully that'll give you a good starting point. Learn more about each item and make a plan. Keep in mind that this is a major and expensive project, so if you're not serious just stop now.

And how come the people who don't know what they're getting into always have so much money to burn?

 

http://mazdatrix.com/r-20.htm

 

wow you guys are listing alot of mods! i didn't have to do anywhere near that amount of mods to get a rev like that and mines a daily beater/track car. without the engine balance i get a 9500 redline with a powerband from 4500-9500. with the balance its 11k. Anyway good luck to you hope you get what you want out of the car.

 

Being able to rev to a certain rpm once and being able to operate there continuously while still making enough power to make it worthwhile are two very different things.

It'll take a big port to keep power from falling off, a scattershild will protect your feet because I don't think any clutch other than a racing 5.5" or 7.25" one is rated for those sorts of revs. Clearancing the rotor tips will prevent damage which is necessary if you want to go over 9k or so, and at that point you need to consider lighter apex seals to help prevent chattering which hurts power and wears the engine much faster. Higher oil pressure, porting the pump, using the TII pump and things like that are further insurance. Anyone can build a motor that freewheels to 10k once, but doing it reliably with power is another thing.

 

cause they're always working or doing other stuff than doing research a little at a time.


IMHO, unless you plan on racing the car on a more than occasional basis, you dont need to rev that high, you can always build a motor with high rpm tolerances and set the rev limit.

bearings, balance, lightened rotors(maybe), oil mods, stock seals or better, aggressive street port or better, light flywheel etc that was already mentioned.

basically if you want high rpm, either go with a full out n/a setup that CAN get you close to 300hp, or just keep the block as is and go with a turbo upgrade with supporting mods and tune.

i have never seen any turbo car have the necessity to rev so high unless the turbo they have already gives them a peaky powerband already. most turbo cars rev to 9k and thats it but most are at 8 or so.

sure you can afford it, but you would just be wasting your money in the end anyway. as you said, youre not home very long so why pay so much for a car that wont be driven when you want, and not when you are able to?