I might have the opportunity to look at a '91. I posted a message in my regional forum to find a shop near where I am at (Annapolis, MD). But, I would like to know what some things are I need to look for if I get the chance to look at this and/or I don't get the chance to take it to a shop. Also, what are the levels of 2nd Gen? i.e. I know about 1st Gens - S. GS. GSL, GSL-SE, thats what I mean.

Thanks,

 

SE-Base
GXL-Luxury
GTU-Just the SE renamed in later years
GTUs-Everything the turbo car has, except the turbo
Turbo II-My fav.

You look for the same things that you would in any car. Rotary specific things like check the oil and records (if they have them). Take it for a drive. Weird noises are normally bad.

 

Regular rotary issues. Compression, mileage, etc. Also, the power seat belts might not work. That is ok though, Mazda had a recall on them, and they are fixed for free at your local Mazda dealership.

 

Sorry to say Josepi...you're wrong. In 1991 the only models were TII and Coupe. The Coupe came with any option, they were dealer installed. The TII came with all the options.

 

Don't make me slap you.

Anyhow 3 models were released in 91.

Coupe
Convertible
Turbo

Not all the TIIs came with every option.

 

Ohhhh, ya got me w/ the Vert!!!!
And I have read several places the TII came w/ all options. I have never seen a 91 TII, so no clue on the truth!!

 

my 91' TIi doesn't have all the options it doesn't have leather seats or back seats(don't know if the backseats were an option)

 

Sorry this is a bit off topic but - the recall on the seatbelts, anyone know if there was one for Ford Probes as well? I'm guessing its probably the same mechanism with the same failure.

 

My black 91 TII has leather seats.

 

Well aren't we special!!
And the back seat on all S5's was a dealer option. No 2+2 option came standard on a S5, if I recall.

 

Backseat was only available on the GXL from the factory , unless dealer installed. No dealer cant install items like big brakes, LSD, etc. They can only stuff like a/c, backseat, etc

 

Well, HAILERS told me that in 91, LSD was a dealer option. The 4-pot brakes were only available on the TII.

 

Yeah which dealer would ripa brand new car apart and install a LSD into the pumpkin? You can get the 4 piston brakes on the NA car as an option, just hard to find

 

In summary:

SE - Base Model
GTU - sport model
GTU-S , Sport - NA racing models
GXL - luxury model
Convertible - best convertible ever made
Turbo II - SUPERCAR
10th AE Turbo II - 1988 limited edtion SUPERCAR
2+2 package - standard on some models, optional on others

 

OK im a newb and i own a GXL. Lookin to sell it and buy a GTUs but how do you tell the difference between the GTU and GTUs (are the stickers marked GTUs )? Sorry if this is a complete n00b question. Just lookin for sme help. Oh yea anyone want a 1990 GXL with 98k origional miles? I have pics.

 

Thanks guys, though only one person actually had advise on what to look for mechanically with the car. I could use a little more specific info, I really know very little about cars, my dad is the auto guy, but he is in Missouri and the car is here where I live.

knight1976: how much are you asking?

 

First FC I found(and bought) was a S4 sport with the 4 piston calipers and 5-lug and all that. Only thing I've found that I don't like is the lack of the LSD. I need to rob one off one in a junkyard or somethin.

 

$3200 for it.

 

I think everyone is forgetting (points at vaughnc ) he is looking at a *91*. In 91 there was *ONLY*TII, Vert, and Coupe!!!!!!!!!! No need to answer for a year he is not looking at! You're just gonna confuse him!!

91 is a great year. I have one, and I adore it!! Newest model, so usually less problems. Sanden A/C compressor (better than Nippondenso one). The only real problem is the seatbelt recall, which is a free fix. I bought mine w/ $96k on it, from a dealer, for $4200. I have power locks, belts, windows, A/C(removed), 5-speed, P/S (removed soon). Great car.

 

What to look for when buying a 1991 RX-7....

Go look at the car first thing in the morning.
Dont let them start the car.

In order of inspection:

Pull the codes from the ECU.

Write them down.

Compare to a table of the codes that you have brought with you.

Master Cylinder... Leaking? is the paint gone from under the reservoir? yes= cleaned up/reapired leak.

Check the compression by removing the EGI fuse and removing BOTH TRAILING plugs.

Attach the compression tester.

Have a freind try to start the car until you get a few revolutions bouncing on the gauge.

on a 1991 N/A car:
Each rotor face should bounce MINIMUM 85 PSI
(90+ psi is on a new engine, 21psi max difference between bounces)
But i would look for AT LEAST the high 80s to determine engine stability, and NO appriciable difference in bounces!

1 bounce on a rotor and 2 "no bounces" = dropped apex seal = blown

2 bounces on a rotor and 1 "no bounce" = blown side seal = blown

**All this is measured on a standard compression gauge with the schrader valve removed

Look at the coolant.
Is it green? (this is good)
Is it clear? (this is acceptable)

Does it smell burnt? (this is bad)
Is it BROWN? (this is very bad)
If its brown, touch it.
OILY= bad

Check the area around the spark plug holes.
do the transitions from rotor housings to iron side housings have brown/black "seepage" drizzling from it?

If so, its got a bad oil seal thats slowly leaking.

(This is not a engine killer unless the seepage is MASSIVE and looks NEW -is it still wet?-)

Any leaks under the car?

(if they cleaned up or moved the car prior to your arrival, is there any fluid soak on the plastic pan under the car?)

Touch them with paper towels and note the different colors.

Are all the bolts and covers in place?
If so GREAT!
If not, make a mental note of where they are all missing.
Then think about the total group of missing fasteners.

What do they all indicate was removed/replaced?

Engine swap?
Radiator replaced?

Missing wire ties/fasteners/clamps are tell tale signs of work that was done and how well it was done.

Too many problems here with re-assebly indicate overall poor quality work.

"Drape and clamp" or otherwise attach (have a freind help you?) clean cloth rags over the tailpipes to catch whatever comes out during startup.

Wreck inspection:
Look under the car note any overspray.

Close all doors, hood and rear hatch.

Run your finger along EVERY line on the car.
All around the hood.
all around the doors.
all around the hatch.

Does your finger feel the panels parting or joining at any place?

Make a not of these things and mention the possibility of a wreck in that area.

Dramatic mis-alignments indicate a possible frame twist.

Pop the hood.
Check the radiator core support to fender connection.
Has the factory assebly putty been broken?
HAve the fender bolts been removed? (check for chipping of the paint on them)

Is the air intake under the from of the nose BLACK?
It should be.
They ALL are.
If not, it was repainted.

Check for overspray / mis-aligned paint masking on all the rubber of the car.

If there is paint on the rubber (anywhere) , that area was repainted.

--------Turn key to run position--------

Seat belt auto restraint system should move.

If not.... doesnt matter.... replacement if restraint system is free.
So is any damage to trim peices from having to replace the part. -no biggie.

Does check engine light go out?
yes=good
no=you should have written codes from a previous step.

---------Start the car---------

Does check engine light go out?
yes=good
no=you should have written codes from a previous step.

Does the car idle on its own?
yes? good.
NO? bad.

Watch the gauges.
OIL- should go well above 30. (at temp should idle barely above 30.)

VOLT- should read 12-14.5v

TEMP- Should climb to middle ONLY, less is okay.
(this should take about 5 minutes.)

TACHOMETER- Should go to 3K and shifiting from neutral to a gear (clutch in) should bring it down to about 2k.

Get out, smell the rags...
Do the rags smell like the coolant you just smelled in previous steps?
If so, you have a water jacket/seal leak. (not good, but not a killer until you observe/smell sweet smoke at full temp and normal idle.)

Does the car smoke?
Does the smoke smell:

sweet? = water in the chambers
Burnt? = Oil

(both are "acceptable" if it stops immiditately otherwise BAD.)

Oil metering pump lines, Are the BLACK and all full of oil?
All black and full of oil = good

Exhaust sound:
Does it have a rhythmic hissing sound?
If so, ther'es an exhaust leak, you should smell it mid-vehicle.

Does the shifter boot have noise coming from it?
Yes = rubber boots are shot

Operate the shifter and try to twist it.
Does it slop around or does it firmly notch into gear?
Slop/twist +noise from boot = $100 shifter boot and bushing kit. (30 minutes to fix -no bigge)


Once engine is a full operating temp, (gauge should read mid-way), does the idle sound smooth?

Idle is ideally at 750 RPM, smooth and should not GALLOP WILDLY (rattling everything in the car).

If it does "gallop", did you get a poor/low compression reading on a rotor earlier?
If so, its blown, recheck your compression.

A/C blow cold?
A/C kill engine?
yes= could need tuning
BUT... did you have low compression?
If so, this might not be fixable
(but I have always been able to tune that to make it work even with low compression.)

====================================
Conclusion:

Adjust your price down as you go.

A pristine 1991 coupe should sell for $5000 approximate.

Subtract the bad items above from this $5000 price to see if they are asking too much.

Price list:

Shifter bushing and boot replacement = $100 (U install)
Exhaust /cat reaplcement -used- = $150 (cats) $300 (all) (U install)
Engine swap (shortblock only) = $1200-1500
Oil leak = pan gasket replacement $25-$35 (U install)
Brakes = $65-$80 /axle
Master cylinder leak= $5 (U install)

Repairs based on codes you get (common codes):
01 = Ignition Coil = $50 used (U install)
02 = Crank angle sensor (used)= $100 (U install)
03 = Crank angle sensor (used)= $100 (U install)
08 = Air flow meter (used) = $75-100 (U install)
12 = Throttle sensor (used) = $100-$200 (U install)
15 = O2 sensor = $18 (U install)
17 = O2 sensor = $18 (U install)
18 = Throttle sensor (used) = $100-$200 (U install)
20 = Oil metering pump -used- = $120 (U install)
26 = Oil metering pump -used- = $120 (U install)
27 = Oil metering pump -used- = $120 (U install)
37 = Oil metering pump -used- = $120 (U install)
71 = Injector (used) = $30-50 each +$20ea for cleaning at NAPA (-do- clean them)
73 = Injector (used) = $30-50 each +$20ea for cleaning at NAPA (-do- clean them)

Bad paint/ bad Repaint = deduct a varying amount based on severity of bad paint.
Base it on a GOOD repaint, but deduct only a portion of it based on how bad it is.

Wreck damage = If its fixed right, deduct only a couple hundred.
If its going to -NEED- to be redone, deduct full amount of work needing to be done.

Any more advice, i'll have to see pictures.
ALOT OF THEM

PM me.

OH.... PRINT THIS POST AND TAKE IT WITH YOU!

check off as you go.

 

All I can say is, uh, wow....thanks. Its a little overwhelming, but very specific, and might be a little beyond my capabilities, but I will certainly try to do my best. Lastly, could some of these things apply to a '84 S? Always looking to help my firstborn...

Thanks a ton..

 

Yes.
all this can be adapted to ANY rotary.

Except the codes....

At least do a compression test, and ground that test wire by the battery.

count the codes.

Write them down.

Do a search on how to do the code check.

Try to figure out how to do all of this.
It'll be worth it.

 

knight1976,

Notice the badging

 

and here's what it's meant to do

 

when does the s5 years start?