lookin at buyin a 88 na need help
10-08-07, 08:13 PM
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lookin at buyin a 88 na need help
ok i went to look at a 88 non turbo today for 800 nice car its a 2+2 has rott on the rocker but the owner has the replacment pannle for it . it has a 13b
EFI in it and it is reall clean mazdatrix exhaust run and drives nice but when it warms up it wont idle???? wtf could that be i dont want to dig my self in to a headach the owner said he changed a bunch of parts and it still wont go away?
all the help would be great
EFI in it and it is reall clean mazdatrix exhaust run and drives nice but when it warms up it wont idle???? wtf could that be i dont want to dig my self in to a headach the owner said he changed a bunch of parts and it still wont go away?
all the help would be great
10-08-07, 08:15 PM
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ok, your username is rota(ry?) trucker, but you seem to have no clue about these engines at all from your post? That's realy confusing.
Please read the stickies and the FAQ threads.
Please read the stickies and the FAQ threads.
10-08-07, 08:23 PM
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thanks for the help with my qustion! but no i am new to this stuff thats why i am lookin to to buyin a rx7 i am building a mazda b2000 pickup with a 12a in it. hens rotatrucker. i also have a 500whp honda civic and a 9second 1970 chevy chevlle with a 383 strocker and a 300hp shot of NOSi have a lil bit of everything. andnow mu buddy moved here form maryland and is in to rx7s i love them but ever built or owned one till now.
10-08-07, 08:48 PM
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Oh, great, so you at least are not a total "n00b" with cars!
I would suggest doing a comression check on the car, if it gives over 100psi, then it's engine is at least good to go! That's the most important part. The second is the frame, and if it's straight or all bent up.
About the comp check: Please search "compression check" and it should come up.
You need to either take the check valve out, or hold the bleed screw the hole time, and check the compression after the engine has went up to reasonable working temperature. This gives the most accurate readings. Also, make shure the battery is good, this can also give lower compression numbers if it's realy drained.
Good luck! And, get the FSM and Haynes manual for the FC if you do buy it!
EDIT: Also, if you don't want the rear seats, you can ship them to me if they are in good condition! I can PM shipping adress and pay for shipping if it's not over 150
I would suggest doing a comression check on the car, if it gives over 100psi, then it's engine is at least good to go! That's the most important part. The second is the frame, and if it's straight or all bent up.
About the comp check: Please search "compression check" and it should come up.
You need to either take the check valve out, or hold the bleed screw the hole time, and check the compression after the engine has went up to reasonable working temperature. This gives the most accurate readings. Also, make shure the battery is good, this can also give lower compression numbers if it's realy drained.
Good luck! And, get the FSM and Haynes manual for the FC if you do buy it!
EDIT: Also, if you don't want the rear seats, you can ship them to me if they are in good condition! I can PM shipping adress and pay for shipping if it's not over 150
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