Has anyone who swapped their OEM alternator for a CS130 GM (AC DELCO) had any negative long term effects?

I swapped the OEM alternator in my 1988 GTU for a 105 AMP CS130 alt over six months ago without any issues so far.

A brief search yielded some pretty old threads.

 

Mine burnt in 15 miles.
it showed a nice 14.6,then I drove it and looked at the gauge and it was 10...
Boy was it hot when I took it off!

 

Did you figure out what made it burn out?

Mine has a resistor between the alt and the alt warning light in the idiot cluster. Did you have a resistor?

 

Sorry,No I didn't.
I was about 5 miles out from the house,so I stopped at a buddy's and had him drive me back home to get the FD alt.
Funny I tried the old FD alt and it works..(switched up a couple other fd alts and they were non-functional.)

 

Initially, I looked into swapping for an FD alternator. The FD's price alone nearly doubled what I paid for the entire CS130 parts swap list. CS130s are cheap and readily avaiable which is convenient.

My voltage stays around 14.5 - 14.2 even under full electrical load. It drops to about 14v at 800 RPM idle. Granted, I don't have a massive stereo or E-fan. The stock S4 alternator didn't even reach 1 at any speed.

I've been contemplating the E-fan mod but not sure if the CS130 will handle the extra loads. Specially the Taurus fans.

 

I have a Powermaster 130AMP and a smaller v-belt pulley. I've had it for more than two years and it's still running like a champ. The only thing is that you have to make your own brackets (and I keep breaking the rear one), and you need to have the negine idle at 800RPM or more. 650RPM is too low for the alternator to do its job.

 

The stock Rpm is about 750,plus or minus 10 per cent.
I find with the way that I have the FD alternator(maybe just the way I have it wired in), that the Alternator needs to have a higher RPM in order to be effective.
That was part of going to the CS130,but since that idea got Burnt out quick I just live with the "dimmer" lights at low Rpm.
When I first cold start it,If I burp the gas it will Excite the alt and the Voltage goes up to 14 something and stays there.

 

The CS130 that I use required a pigtail to hook up into the car's electrical/charging system.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30707 Is the pigtail I used.

The red wire ties into the charging cable on the stud. Teh white wire must be connected to the wire that leads to the charge failure warning relay in the CPU.

The instructions (link below) state that if you don't use that wire for the charging light, you still hvae to wire that white wire to an ignition source with the included resistor or premature failure of the regulator will occur.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...nstruction.pdf

I've run the alt with both the included resistor and later with it tied into the factory warning wire. I've had no problems.

 

I've run Taurus, Volvo and now, the even larger (18") Lincoln efans on smaller alternators than yours with no problem.
The LO and HI speeds are protected with 30a fuses and I've never blown one.

 

if you have s4 chassis and upgrade to s5 FD or other alt then you NEED to upgrade the B+ wiring back to the fuse box ( and the fuse ) and or back to the starter motor
( for those with relocated battery )

the B+ on s4 barely copes with 70 A and will burn out if there is more amps than that demanded at the battery or at the fuse box

doubling the B+ will work..( and that is what mazda did for s5 )
or running at least 130 a capable cable and replacing the old B+ is the other option

 

If all else fails, Taurus fan, Taurus Alternator, divorce the old B+ cable from the fuse box (re-use for fan ground ) and run some 4awg to fresh MARINE BATTERY TERMINALS.

Maybe I should sell conversion kits...