2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Long Block Pressure wash

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Old Jan 14, 2005 | 11:23 PM
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From: Irvine Ca.
Long Block Pressure wash

I just go my motor out of the engine bay. It is long block for right now. I would like to take it over the car wash and pressure spray all the oil off of it before I start the breakdown.

Can you see anything wrong with this idea and if not would you plug any holes b4 your went???

Thanks ahead of time for the imput.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 12:49 AM
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From: Ames, IA
That's smart... Wish I'd though of that.

Personally, I'd take off the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, alternator, water pump, etc - strip it to an "extended short block" - keep the oil pan, front cover, etc on.

If you want, you can block off the intake/exhaust ports, the water pump opening, and anything else you see, but I'd just spray it off and then take it apart immediately after (within a few hours). The chances of water causing any damage in that timeframe would be basically zero (minor surface rust, if anything). You would want to make sure the rotors and housings are dry though - especially the rotors, with all the space inside them.

Alternately, just take it as is (without the alternator obviously, and I'd pull the throttle body too) and hose it down.

-=Russ=-
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 01:07 AM
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Take off your alternator, TPS, and OMP (if s5). Everything else should be fine. Use liberal amounts of engine degreaser a few minutes beforehand (in the carwash parking lot, not at home and then drive there). Don't worry about plugging up holes. When you're done, be sure it gets torn down within at least a week, to prevent any rust from forming inside anywhere. Once it's all apart, everything will (should anyway) get cleaned out really well with compressed air/cleaning solvents/etc. eliminating any water that got somewhere it shouldnt have been.

Don't expect this to eliminate the need for cleaning after the teardown, though. You should plan on another pressurewash session for all the housings and such.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 01:14 AM
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From: Ames, IA
You sound like you've used this method before...

I'm thinking this might be worth it for my Subaru boinger before I rip it apart to replace all sorts of little annoying o-rings & such.

-=Russ=-
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 04:41 PM
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Here is what is and what is not still on the motor.

Still on The intake, wire harness, front pulleys, fuel rail, omp, that whole rats nest thing, flywheel, exhaust manifold,

Off is Alt, alt. stand, spark plugs,

I mean, I just got it out using the manual for breakdown process. anything they said to take off I took off. everything else is still on there.

I don't want to work on it with all that dirt/oil built up on it.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 05:00 PM
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From: Berthier, Quebec
not to thread jack... but I have a question that is related to the subject and I wanna know what you guys think about that

here we go : My engine is sitting on my garage's table by now. This is bare block because I'm having my manifolds buffed out. I simply shut every holes or ports with paper or tape.

Is it safe? do I need to inject oil in my housings, in case of pure prevention? I come to spin the motor regularly and it spins free...

what do you think about this?
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 05:25 PM
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Yea you thread jacker!!!

You actually jacked it like none other!!

How 'bout a new thread like......"how to store a motor". Or "Rusty Rex cause I'm too lazy to block off the holes" or "it used to spin by Open Holes" Get your own damn thread

Just kidding, I figured I Jack you up just for fun. I need this info as well. In about three weeks I'll be in your same shoes.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 05:34 PM
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Fill the chambers with oil, then block the ports as best you can. Then wash, unblock the ports, and see if any water got inside. IF it did, turn it repeatedly to get it out, then inject more oil. Even if residual water stays in there a little, oil displaces it from the metal surfaces (since it was there first) and will generally prevent rust.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 05:44 PM
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From: Berthier, Quebec
yeah kevin I understand the point to do so if you rebuild or something... but do I need to SOAK both housings in oil even if I don't rebuild?

what do you mean by " fill " ? I put oil in until it begins to pour out of the exhaust ports? When it's done, do I spin the engine to spill the oil everywhere in both housing? When I'll be ready to put it in the car again, do I need to remove the excess oil?

may sounds a bit dumb, but I don't know **** about this subject... thanks a lot to take the time to answer me...
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 01:18 PM
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but do I need to SOAK both housings in oil even if I don't rebuild?
This has nothing to do with rebuilding. ANytime you want to be sure rust doesnt form inside a rotary engine that has been or will be exposed to water in the insides and will not be started up for a while (long enough to worry about rust) then you coat it with oil to displace water and rust. IT's common sense, really.

what do you mean by " fill " ? I put oil in until it begins to pour out of the exhaust ports? When it's done, do I spin the engine to spill the oil everywhere in both housing? When I'll be ready to put it in the car again, do I need to remove the excess oil?
haha, wtf? use an oil can or pump of some sort. Put several squirts into each chamber...through the lower plugholes or the exhaust ports, turning the engine as you go. You can look inside and see stuff going on while turning it, and perhaps that'll educate you as to some of the stuff we're talking about. The oil serves to coat all the surfaces as well as to lube the seals a bit. After all faces have some oil on them, then you're okay. You can't really use too much, it'll just come back out the exhaust as you turn it. You just want to coat everything. When you put it back into service, when it cranks up, it;ll smoke like a bitch while it burns all that off, and then it'll be normal again...it will burn the oil out of anywhere it shouldnt be.
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