When i tore down my s5, the bolts were easy to unscrew, feel no more then 15-20lbs.
I dont think i can use locktite and oil on the threads at the same time. or can i?

 

You're referring to their thread locker product, right? It seems like it would be a good idea to keep the bolts from retreating, but wouldn't that make them a REAL pain to remove if you ever had to rebuild again?

 

No there is no need to use lock tight on the tension bolts...Use a little bit of silicone on the tips and then tighten them down to spec which is about 28-34 pounds and your fine...

 

34lbs is not in spec. 28 i think is max. do u think silicone will do anything at all?

 

your threads tend to be confusing.

What are you asking? Are you asking if the thread locker would help keep the tension bolts from lossening up?

When you were removing the tension bolts from the block, they could just plain not been torqued down properly from the start.
Or your 'feeling' could have just been that, unless you were using a torque wrench to remove them, you wouldnt know how much force you were using on them.

 

Absolutely no reason whatsoever to do that.

B

 

Some1 on the forum had 8lbs on the bolts uppon desasembly*.
And stated he torqued them properly. now he uses locktite.



Will locktite hurt? Can it be used with oil when torqued?*

*-spell check

 

Why is there so much BS in this thread?

Silicone? Where'd you hear that?

You're supposed to oil the threads and sealing washers and torque to spec in the sequence shown. That is all.

If they needed loctite, the FSM would specify that.

99% of the time you're better off downloading the FSM and following that procedure, rather than asking the rx7club.

 

if you must use it, at least use blue

 

There's no reason to use that. I have NEVER had a problem. You need to torque it in sequence. I go over it several times because once is not enough.

If you want to use it, they several varieties.
If it's coming loose, it's not torqued in sequence. When it's out clean the threads on the tension bolts

 

No you cannot use oil and locktite at the same time.

 

Loctite is not compatible with oily surfaces. You're even supposed to use primer on many clean surfaces.

They probably werent torqued properly. The wrench could have been out of calibration. I've taken apart motors that were torqued properly and they were just as hard as a factory block to start the tension bolts coming out.

The oiling is factored into the torque specification. That much less fristion makes a difference. It's the same reason you only put 1/2 to 2/3 the normal torque on a fastener if you have put antiseize on it.

 

First, it's the washers that tend to keep the tension bolts in place.

Second, the FSM explicitly states that "engine oil" is used on the tension bolt threads and tension bolt washers.
GO READ THE *@($%^*$ MANUAL.

Third, "silicone" is a very bad thread locker.
I would never recommend it to keep fasteners together.

This thread should be locked.


-Ted

 

ok got ya. RA washers will be ok?

 

Just use copper grease....

 

best advice yet

 

Clean and oil threads, follow tightening sequence, check again, done.

edit: Use new sealing washers.

 

Yeah seriously, you said all that is needed to be said. Now lock this darn thread. haha

 

Any advice on cleaning th front plate threads without buying a new TAP.?

 

By clean the threads, they mean remove debris. You shouldn't have to run a tap through them.

I pressure wash my parts and then quickly dry them. The t-bolt threads are generally the cleanest part of the engine.

 

Well thats why i said 28-34 pounds i don't have the haynes mani in front of me for specs...But lock tite is no go...Mazda and the haynes book recommend silicone for the seal into the irons

 

If he was using the housing for a turbo, he should just change the sleeves out and port it.
Cleaning takes the longest when rebuilding and you should never re-use o-rings, tension bolt washers ...etc.
It's not expensive to buy OEM gasket set. You shouldn't go cheap route when rebuilding. Not saying you are.... just some people go the cheap route and end up pulling motor again.

Tension bolts should never need loctite if you use new washers and proper torque sequence. I go over that thing at least 4 times and always in sequence.

 

not going cheap, got new washers and o-rings from RA.

 

silicone into the iron threads?

 

Do not use silicone on the tension bolt threads.
The iron should be chased with a bottoming tap, and the tension bolt threads ran through a die.
A sponge soaked with 5W30 sitting on your assembly bench is an easy (and more importantly, clean) way to oil your tension bolts before installtion. Do not use thread locker. The tension bolts don't tend to loosen, but if you really want to be sure, paint a stripe on the head of each tension bolt and on the rear iron. If upon dissassembly, the lines don't line up, you know they have loosened.