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Locktite on Shock/Strut Assemblies

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Old 03-26-08, 07:23 AM
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90RXHeaven

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Locktite on Shock/Strut Assemblies

I've begun to assemble my new shocks and springs and I'm not sure if it would be a good idea to torque down the center nut and the mounting bolts with locktite. What do you all think?
Old 03-26-08, 07:30 AM
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Can't hurt. I'd only use a medium strength (blue) at the most.
Old 03-26-08, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 1990RXHeaven
I've begun to assemble my new shocks and springs and I'm not sure if it would be a good idea to torque down the center nut and the mounting bolts with locktite. What do you all think?
No, the new shocks should come with locking nuts. These nuts with the proper washers should be enough.

Most of these nuts have a nylon insert that locks the thread and prevents the nut from easily backing out. Some of the nuts have an upper flange or neck that is smashed slightly egg shaped so that it grips the threads and prevents backing out.

Keep in mind these are supposed to be single use. Once they have been removed, you are supposed to use new nuts. FWIW, I often reuse them ONCE only and never had a nut come loose.


Don't use locktite, because locktite is not necessary. Nothing pisses me off worse than working on an assembly that some goober has locktited up when it wasn't supposed to be. Those goobers usually use the red stuff as well.
Old 03-26-08, 08:48 AM
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i work at a dealership and have never seen the factory use locktite on stuts, must be saying something.
Old 03-26-08, 09:38 AM
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I havent seen the factory use never-seize either...

The maker of the red crap should be shot. Some dummy put that on the caliper bolts on my 7...eight broken bolts and four sawzall blades later I was able to change my calipers at the same time as my rotors...of course I only wanted to change the rotors...

Joe
Old 03-26-08, 09:41 AM
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Do you guys know that HEAT kills most locking compounds?
Have a torch handy next time...


-Ted
Old 03-26-08, 09:49 AM
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that is really nice is the inductive units for heating bolts.
Old 03-26-08, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 88GXLJoe
I havent seen the factory use never-seize either...

The maker of the red crap should be shot. Some dummy put that on the caliper bolts on my 7...eight broken bolts and four sawzall blades later I was able to change my calipers at the same time as my rotors...of course I only wanted to change the rotors...

Joe
Haha, even without the loctite those connections can be a BEAR. The hex screws for my brake lines absolutely love to round off. Every time I work down there I end up having to grind one or two of them flat on two sides so an adjustable can do it. The metal is just far too soft for the sticking power. Penetrants and torching have failed in that regard.
Old 03-26-08, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by AusTexRex
The hex screws for my brake lines absolutely love to round off. Every time I work down there I end up having to grind one or two of them flat on two sides so an adjustable can do it.
Use anti-seize on all brake line fittings and a line wrench on the fittings.
Old 03-26-08, 09:41 PM
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I say it couldn't hurt, if its just blue. But wut do i kno, im just 17...
Old 03-28-08, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RETed
Do you guys know that HEAT kills most locking compounds?
Have a torch handy next time...


-Ted
Uhm, Heat-yes that is what my oxy-acetylene torch is for!

Of course it does, but do these guys are likely to put it somewhere you don't want to use heat, rubber parts, seals etc.

If it requires loctite, use loctite.

If it doesn't require loctite, don't use it.
Old 03-28-08, 06:37 AM
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Rotary $ > AMG $

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Originally Posted by TheDarkRacer
I say it couldn't hurt, if its just blue. But wut do i kno, im just 17...

*Exactly* Don't advise about what you don't know.
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