Installed a Racing Beat lightweight flywheel, and put my transmission back in. When I went to put the clutch cylinder in I noticed the fork was moving freely. Thinking I might have left out the throw out bearing I removed the transmission again, and found that the problem wasn't the bearing, it was the flywheel. On the stock flywheel there are 6 places raised about 3/8" above the ring gear where the pressure plate bolts on, but on the lightweight flywheel the bolt holes are nearly flush with the ring gear. As a result, the pressure plate is fully compressed when the bolts are tightened. What's going on here? I though it was supposed to be a direct bolt-in. Any help is appreciated.
BTW, car is an '88 vert.

 

the racing beat lw flywheel uses spacers that should have been included with the flywheel.

 

Ah, then what should I do?

 

I bought it used, BTW.

 

you can order the spacing kit from racing beat . call them tomorrow and order one

 

Ok, thanks. Would that also be in their online catalogue?

 

Same thing happened to me, the spacer/bolt kit is ~30 dollar IIRC

 

Why not just go out and buy some longer bolts and some washers? Or would that throw off the balence?

 

the spacing has to be exact, otherwise the clutch wont engage and disengage properly...so i dont think that would work

 

washers in something thats moving that fast is a no go in my book.

 

This is a reason that I strongly dislike the RB light flywheel design for the NA cars. That is a real mickey mouse way of mounting a pressure plate, and for the money involved, it's bullshit. IT makes installing the clutch a bit harder, too, since you have to hold the pressureplate up by hand while dicking with the spacers, bolts, washers, and nuts. IF I remember right, the holes are not even freaking tapped...you have to use nuts on the back side of the flywheel for the bolts.

IT's obviously a cop-out instead of proper design and machining. NOt to mention that they dont even put alignment dowels on the flywheel...so it is possible, even probable, that the pressureplate will be out of balance and you will get some vibration. I have had this happen before myself.

The RB turbo flywheel doesnt use spacers, which is good...but it still doesnt have alignment dowels.

The SR flywheels are much better, but you have to do a bit of grinding on them in spots (again, NA applications) to clear the pressure plate springs (I've found this out the hard way, had a binding clutch and had to remove/reinstal it twice).

The ACT flywheels are excellent in fitment and finish, but are only available for turbo applications, to my knowledge.

 

thanx for that....... im in the market, and needed advice on which to but........ act was on the top of my list...............

also, have you ever heard of fidanza flywheels? they are selling them on (drumrole please) EBAY! any experience w/ these?

 

i have a fidanza. it's nice. it has a detachable face, so you only need to buy a new contact plate and install it instead of getting the flywheel resurfaced. but the flywheel itself is aluminum. some people don't like aluminum.

iirc for a FC you need to use some component from an automatic tranny or some bullshit. i forgot what it was, but it naturally does not come with the flywheel. there's also a warning sheet included that recommends scatter shield for rotary application. um yeah... scary. lol.

 

the scatter shield they recomend is only for engines going past 10k rpms, and the thing from the auto trans your talking about is the counter weight from the flex plate i believe.

as for the sr you need to grind them down its true but i believe the spacing on these is still off slightly as well. i have had the sr turbo and NA light weight flywheel and have had the same problems on each. the turbo flywheel is flat. so there is nothing for the clutch to bind up on. I swapped out all hyrdrolics and installed a SS clutch line. I still bent the piston for the clutch master cylinder. I have a very very stiff pedal and the clutch dissengages about 1.5 inch from the floor. and for a while i had to feather the clutch. and its very very hard to shift sometimes. I think that the clearance between the pressure plate and the flywheel isnt big enough to let the clutch completely dissengage. I am going to try spaciing the clutch to see if i get the same effect. hopefully all i need is to space it and all these problems go away. i hate how hard it is to push the clutch in

 

I have no input at all on the fidanza. I've heard of it but never seen, installed, or known anyone personally who used it. My personal experience is as posted above.

 

Probably the counterweight from the automatic transmission.

James

 

So basicly my car's going to be on the jackstands for another week. Wonderful. And Kevin, the bolt holes are threaded, same size and pitch as stock. As I bought this thing used, i suspect at least one person has some spacers lying arond unused. mabey they feel like getting rid of them. Bad part is, I can't remember who I bought it from, so I can't e-mail him to see if he still has the spacers. I'm pretty sure it was someone on theis forum, though.

 

Hmm, the ones I've worked with were not threaded. Perhaps they have changed that, good to hear. I still wouldnt use one due to the balance issue.

Dude, just make your own spacers from some metal stock. Measure the distance between the friction surface and the mounting pads on the stock flywheel. Replicate that distance on the new flywheel, spacer thickness is easy to figure out. But, if you have to wait for a counterweight, you might as well wait for the proper spacers, too. IF spacers were the only part holding back my installation, I would make some.

And yes, you need the automatic rear counterweight to suit the year of engine you are running.

 

I've had the flywheel for a year, and the counterweight for 4 months, I was just waiting for an excuse to pull the transmission. My starter started to go out, so I decided now was the time. Yes, the spacers (and longer bolts) are the only thing holding me up. Having heard your opinion though, I think I will try and fabricate some.

 

Kevin,

is the RB flywheel ok for FDs?

 

Well, its back together and I've taken it for a test drive. No problams, no vibrations, and the tyres spin a lot easyer. Overall I'm pleased with the mod, it definatly revs quicker. Thanks for all the help.

 

My Raceing beat flywheel did come tapped, with spacers and 2 larger black bolts that acted as dowels/bolts to help line everthing up. It is alot harder to get on but I love it.

 

hey how is the release and the feel of the clutch? Is it jerky or is it smooth still?

Also is the clutch stiffer at all now?

 

Well, I spoke too soon, there is some vibration like the rear is slightly out of balance. I guess the washers wern't enough, I'll just have to get the spacers and bolts from Racing Beat. I definatly liked it, though. More torque to the wheels, still easy to take off from a stop. And clutch stiffness is dictated by the pressure plate, the flywheel wont change that.

 

The spacers won't help the vibration...you have to have stationary dowels for alignment purposes.