Awww, yeah what the hell is this? I am thinking an intake leak of some kind? Maybe someone can point me in the direction so I am not faced with spraying windex all over my engine? Thanks for all the help guys

 

Search disabled?

10A draw just from the brake LIGHTS!&nbsp The alternator sucks and can't keep up with that much current draw at idle.



-Ted

 

You might have a loose ground in the lighting system or possibly a bad alternator. Does it happen when any other accesories are used, i.e. A/C, pwr windows, sunroof, etc?

You still could have a vac leak, too, but this is another probable cause.

 

Wait? What did you say about alternator? Me and my dad thinks it is fried? If it is would this affect it? Anyone got one for an S5 Non turbo? Or would it matter from series? Thanks.

 

Did u upgrade your bulbs to higher output ones? If you did then it's just that the alternator can't "keep up" with your bulbs...

 

Mine does this when I use power anything. Windows, hit my locks, hit my brakes, or turn my stereo, but only when my headlights are on. I get a 14V reading on my stock volt gauge though. Kinda weird.

 

Ok thanks for the info guys, I have been constantly trying to figure out what is up with the car and am still at a stand still. Oh and btw, Reted if you ever tell me to use that damn search button I am likely to throw it at you. Not to be mean man but this is a forum, things get repeated and actually I enjoy helping out people no matter the question. The real point is to keep the 7 still living and forcing people to search and not helping them with your knowledge is just stupid. Aight?

 

The search function is there for a reason.&nbsp Asking blatantly YOUR questions and expecting an answer all the time (when it has been covered just a few days ago) is just plain selfish and lazy.&nbsp I don't get paid for this **** - and I doubt neither will you pay me to answer.&nbsp So that leaves all of us at a stand-still...forget it, I won't bother answering your questions anymore.&nbsp How's that for a resolution...


-Ted

 

I get the dimming, too. Also happens when I shift into reverse (although I may be able to fix that next time I get under the car.) I've done all the grounding mods and my battery and alternator are 100%. If I pull up to a stoplight at night and have the headlights on and my foot on the brake and the cabin fan going volts drop to just above 12V. I'd love to be able change this but I don't know what's left to go after except maybe a capacitor as is being discussed in another thread...

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...itor+fuel+pump

I guess I'm saying that I share your pain.

ttyl,
Amur_

 

Yeah whatever Reted, if I asked for a pompoud attitude I would have come to you I guess. Helping people out is what this forum should be about not telling people to search, if they asked you where the search button was than that's cool but otherwise it is a useless function and is non existant to most of us who don't care that much and just sort of imagine that since we usually help people out that there might be some equality and they might perchance help us back.

 

The problem with the search function, is people think their problem is different from someone elses that they find while searching, when the fix may be the same, they think it may be different due to a different problem. Or they think it's something other than the fix do to other causes and effects, but I agree, search first, ask later.

 

Its probably some high tech reason for the dimming, but.....have you ever followed a guy pulling a boat at nite, and when he hits a rough piece of road the trailer lites flicker??? And you might say "that fellow needs to check his boat trailer connector cause its loose"? Well it ain't the electrical connector to the trailer that causes the flicker. The problem is that the ground for the trailer lites is thru the ball and hitch, and when he hits a rough spot the connection is not so good. Same on a car. If the return or the ground is flakey, then its just like the boat trailer and ball hitch. Lites flicker or dim. Thats one reason the battery ground goes straight to the chassis and then to the engine block or transmission. Its to tie the engine and chassis together in the same ground plane. More than likely the tail lights are grounded to the chassis somewhere. Might be a bad ground. Might be something different like the altenator, poor battery ground, loose bulb, who knows. I don't.

 

The ground many overlook is the engine to chassis strap. Even if it is connected, vibration will weaken it. We tend to forget that strap carries the entire electrical load of the car.

 

Check the alternator by connecting a voltimeter to the battery cable, start the car and read the voltage. It should be 13.6v or more. If less than 13v, your alternator is failing and you'll be stranded on the road one day after your battery run out of power.

Like someone said earlier, if you have higher power bulbs that draw more power than stock, that may be the cause as well.