So I'm looking into getting a light weight flywheel for my 88 N/A, and the lightest one I could find was this http://www2.advancedclutch.com/products/flywheels.aspx, but when I called them to look into getting a counter weight he said they offer nothing for the N/A and that the product I linked was going to be removed.

My question is what is the lightest flywheel anyone has seen or used? the only one I can find that also offers the correct weight counter weight is from racing beat and thats the 12 pound one.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/flywheel.htm

best i can do you for.....

 

there are 8 1/2 lb ers as well, but you will have to track down the counterweight.

 

here's some more:

http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/perf...lywheels#Aasco

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/t...4257_4290.html

http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs...h_Flywheel.pdf

http://www.racinglab.com/act-streetl...mazda-003.html

http://www.bizrate.com/automotive-pe...699856698.html

 

SR Motorsports makes a 9.25lb flywheel, which is what I'm running in my car...
http://www.srmotorsports.com/sr86clch.html

Also, Fidanza makes a 7lb flywheel, which I believe is one of the lightest out there.

 

Awesome, Now one last question is I have heard you need a specific weight counter weight, due to the weight of the flywheel and others say just match year and model and get a rear counter weight off of a auto trans and your fine no matter what flywheel weight you have.

 

Where in that giant sentence is your question?

Anyways, the counterweight comes from an automatic 13b. Match the counterweight to YOUR series engine and your set. Bolt to flywheel.

 

The counter weight needs to match the rotors in your engine (notice I didn't say the series of your car). If u have s4 rotors --> s4 auto counterweight. If you have s5 rotors--> s5 auto counterweight. Now if you want to know if the counterweight you have in your hand if s4 or s5... Good luck.




Jk, mazdatrix has a page on counterweight identification.

 

Your question is flawed because the static weight of the flywheel is not necessarily an indication of performance.

... or, are you just looking for a low weight number so you can have it posted on a status board for your ricer show car that doesn't actually drive anywhere?

What is your purpose?

 

If you have a 86-88 then i may have a counterweight for you.

 

DUH! Its all about stages, the higher the stage the more performance.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/r-clutch-flywheel.htm

3.9 lb. flywheel without the required counterweight

Its a stage 9 flywheel

 

...and don't forget the $900 clutch you need to use that flywheel! Plus you really don't want to actually USE that clutch too much. Ask my friend who learned that he should use a winch to get his car on the trailer not drive it with a small clutch.

 

^ Wow its not even close to $900 for the clutch you need to use.

Its $653.38 + shipping

Yeah I know that flywheel is way too light for anything but a track car, but thats not what the OP asked.

 

lightweight flywheel = overrated

 

Lightweight flywheel = harder take offs.

 

i tend to agree since 7's are dogs off the line but the light flywheels do add a noticable amount of response. but the difference between a 7lb flywheel and an 11lb flywheel is negligable and hardly noticable.

keep in mind your tossing on another chunk of weight on top of it which weighs equally as much(the clutch).

 

lightweight flywheel = underrated

 

It's for a N/A drift car and im looking to get more WHP, and that should increase with a lighter flywheel correct? I also understand it's gonna have less rotational mass to keep the rpm's up while drifting but I really dont see that being a problem unless I let them drop to much and try and increase engine speed while drifting.

 

No. You get zero hp gains from a flywheel.

You decrease the rotating mass. You gain quicker acceleration and revs, and gain better throttle response at the loss of low throttle/take off response.

It should definitely help keep the wheels spinning.

 

Ok so its not a WHP factor just a torgue gain in higher RPM and that would be ideal for drifting. So is the loss is acceleration from a stop made up from faster power to the wheels through a few gears, or is the loss of acceleration off the line way more then whats gained through running out a few gears in say a quarter mile aspect? And around what RPM can you start to notice the acceleration from the flywheel?

 

Actually, a high-inertia flywheel will tend to keep the wheels spinning at the same speed. A low-inertia flywheel will encourage a change in the spinning speed.

No HP gain, no Torque gain. I don't drift, but I would guess that a low-inertia flywheel would hurt more than it would help. With a low-inertia flywheel, you would need to rev the engine higher to break the wheels loose, and as you go around the track it will make it difficult to maintain the engine rpms because the engine rpm will be more twitchy. A higher-inertia flywheel will not spool up as fast, but it will tend to maintain its speed once it gets there.

Apples and oranges. It depends what you want. If you want to retain inertia, then you use a higher-inertia flywheel. If you want very little inertia, then you use a lower-inertia flywheel.

Idle. In fact, a low-inertia flywheel will usually cause the idle to bounce around.

For those of you who don't understand why weight doesn't matter as much as the moment of inertia, see the picture below. Both flywheels are the same static weight, but the one on the left will have a lower inertia because the weight is centered, while the one on the right will have a higher inertia because the weight is concentrated at the perimeter. The one on the left will therefore spool faster, while the one on the right will better retain its speed, even though they are both the same weight. Make sense?

 

So then whats would be the ideal application for a light weight flywheel?

 

Road racing which involves rolling starts and accurate/rapid control of engine rpms.

See this link for a basic overview:
http://chicaneculture.com/2010/05/basics-flywheel/

 

i have a light steel and it still lost a ton of inertia after the switch, i don't think the difference in inertias of the metals really makes as much of a difference as the loss of the huge chunk of rotating weight already.