Undutched

This has probably been asked several times at the least, but for one would like to know what I can do to make the life of a FC easier, longer and better overall.

I just hear this and that all the time, but it's more like, you should do this and that, but no one is sure really why or if it does anything, really.

Help a guy out and I bet there are lots more out there

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Regularly check all your fluids and replace them when/before they should be
Inspect and replace any long block components that need to be (vacuum caps, lines, etc.)
Check the FSM and do the tune-up stuff they say to do

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

you could also take out the omp and run premix.

tIIforever

uhh get all the engine parts coated with a ceramic coating.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Can we not go down that path please.

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

^ you could do a vacume simplify, i did it and now i only run 4 vac lines

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I think I'm down to 2.

takahashiRyosukeFC3S

you guys who run just a few vac hoses, FC3S nataku and My5ABaby. Do you have to pass emissions in FL and TN?

Ryosuke

FC3S_nataku

iTrader: (3)

nope, when i turn on my car,the plants behind me wilt

rotorforce

A good intake and exhaust system does not hinder reliablility. Remember it's all about how well you maintain the vehicle and how little you abuse it. Launching it all the time, hard shifting, and constant hi RPM shift changes add more stress which equals less reliablity for the long haul.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

No, not in my area. In west TN they might have to. If we had to do it here, or especially the county where my parents live, there would be about 2 cars still on the road.

Syonyk

General rule of thumb: If it's soft or wet, and you haven't changed it since you owned the car, replace it.

Coolant lines, vacuum lines, fuel lines, fuel pulsation damper, transmission fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid, oil cooler lines... replace them.

If it's able to be cleaned, clean it. Fuel injectors.

Then just take care of it and maintain it.

WAYNE88N/A had his replacement schedule posted at one point. He replaces things like coolant lines/oil cooler lines/etc at regular intervals, regardless of their condition. He also works doing aircraft maintenance, and this is how airplanes are maintained - things have a service life, and when that's up, regardless of condition, they get replaced.

He probably has the most reliable FC on the forum. He also rebuilt his motor & runs pure premix.

-=Russ=-

Syncro

iTrader: (1)

I replaced everything made of rubber in my car. This includes all mounts (PITA) and bushings. This doesnt really affect reliability, but it makes the car drive like it just came off the showroom.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Sure it does. That old stuff is prone to breaking/failing.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Thermowax pellet?

Boostmaniac

IMHO, one of my favorite reliability mods is a downpipe. Getting rid of that precat removes alot of heat and allows the exhaust to travel a more free path. Not to mention the increase in power and reduction in lag is a bonus.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

I've heard about it, but what does it actually do?

Mx6-Rx7 Addict

I personally think that replacing oil cooler lines/coolant lines etc at regular intervals is a waste of time and money. I'll replace coolant lines if they show dry rott or cracking, bulges, or leakage. Oil cooler lines? I'll replace them when they start to leak, or if they are obviously overused (braids coming apart in several places).

Based on my experience, aircraft hoses are not replaced within a timeline or based on intervals. They are replaced when they have chaffing, braids coming apart (usually around 6 braids coming apart per foot), or leakage. (keep in mind, these hoses see from 1500 to 4000 psi daily)

No doubt, i don't see any problem with be over cautious, but i don't really see it as necessary.

I base my opinion as such because i work on aircraft as well.

Personally, i would replace all vaccum lines, Pulsation damper, Put a good radiator on it (Koyo, fluidyne), and open up the exhaust.

-Justin

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

i dont want to fly in your plane ^^

jk lol

Jager

iTrader: (10)

And starts boots creep and hitting fuel cut.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

http://www.speedmachineperformance.c...Pellet+86%2D88

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

thnx

NZConvertible

Removing all the vac lines doesn't necessarily make your car more reliable, especially if you fit a cap on the nipple. All you're doing is replacing one potential failure point with another. Quality vac lines should last for many years, so replacing them with new ones is just as beneficial to reliability as removing them.

Assuming you have the FPR and MAP sensor connected, you must be missing the primary fuel injector air bleed line. The air bleeds are there to improve fuel atomization. Better atomized fuel burns more completely, so your engine runs more efficiently. There is definitely no advantage to not having them.

Just like with the vac lines above, replacing the thermowax pellet with a solid one won't make the engine any more reliable than replacing it with a new thermowax pellet. A new one will most likely outlast the car.

The e-shaft's thermowax pellet disables the rotors' oil squirters until the oil warms up so that the engine warms up faster. When this fails (usually after 15 years or more) it causes low oil pressure when the engine is warm. Replacing it with a solid pellet disables this feature. There's a wonderful discussion about this in the archive if you want to know more...

I agree. It would be very unusual for any of the coolant or oil hoses to fail without first showing obvious signs of advanced age or deterioration. Replacing a hose based purely on a service interval is just throwing away good money. A regular inspection of the condition of all hoses is all that's needed.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Ok, 3. I can't help having a crappy memory .

idsigloo

Get an EMS.