ITs been a BRUTAL summer so far. Normally we get monsoons that cool things off a bit, but not this year. AC here is a necessity, not a luxury.

 

2 individual ones, one for each speed.

 

on my Taurus fan i have 3 wires, 12v on one is high, 12v on the other is low. you put 12v on both and its ok?

i guess i just didnt think about it like that.

 

one relay is activated by the coolant thermoswitch, and triggers low speed. The switch turns on at 207 and off at 195.

One relay is activated by the a/c relay (compressor) and triggers high speed.

The fan isn't made to have both sides energized at once, and I originally intended to run a different relay configuration that would run EITHER the coolant switch OR the a/c activation at low speed, but when BOTH were active (a/c on and coolant temp over 207) the fan would turn on high. However, I couldn't get it to work, the thermoswitch seemed unable to trigger 2 relays, which is what was necessary to make it operate this way.

After thinking about it more, it seemed the since the high speed moves so much air, it stands to reason to me that it's unlikely the coolant will ever reach the thermoswitch's turn on temp, and so there is little risk of having both circuits on at the same time for very long at all.

 

An easy solution, assuming your relays are spdt- you simply supply the 12v to the low-speed relay from the N/C pole on the A/C relay. Then, when the A/C comes on, the cooling relay is de-energized. If the relays are spst, then nevermind...

 

Or buy new relays.. what are they... 5-10 bucks?

 

I wish I had A/C. I will be buying the parts to put it back in. Why I removed it 6 years ago is beyond me. Maybe because it never worked. Just like how I was to lazy to put a belt on my PS pump and was not to lazy to spend the time in removing the PS system

 

Yep, it gets down to 38 degrees when cruising, and fairly quickly at that. Once I get around to getting another hose for my 7 I'll put it in there, too.

 

Yeah, hopefully I can prevent others from making the same mistake. Just proves that no matter how much you work on cars, there is always something else to learn.

 

Yeah, A/C would be nice. Hell, heat would be nice. I don't have a clue what my problem is. My blower motor just gives me the finger when I try to use it, yet it works when I hook it straight to the battery (which is fun if you ever get the chance ).

 

does the stock little electric pusher fan come on anytime the A/C is on?
i thought it did, and also if coolant temp gets above a certain point...

and my S5 NA came with one so it's not just the turbo models that got them.

 

I have a compressor if you want it

 

It is supposed to come on anytime the a/c is on, and also when the temp switch goes above 207.

The turbo models and the automatic NA models got the temp switch and aux. e-fans. The manual nonturbos did not.

 

interesting that my car came with one. i am fairly certain that the car was never an automatic, and the fan looks old enough to have been on since 1989.
are you sure it wasn't an S5 specific thing for cars with A/C? or possibly for Canadian models, which doesn't make much sense though...

 

Kevin so what you’re basically saying is that with the Escort E-Fan your AC is blowing a hell of a lot colder than running the stock fan with shroud?
I’m curious to know are you running a FMIC with your setup, if so what are your water temps while cruising or at idle for example in traffic?
I have always wanted to run a E-Fan preferably the "Black Magic E-Fan 150", but I think Jrat said he had two of them that went bad on him within a short time period. The only reason that really want to run an E-Fan is to remove the clutch fan so the water pump doesn’t work as hard, and also it's one less belt that you have to worry about, not to mention that it frees up a lot of space so you can work better in the engine bay, and it also looks better than the stock fan and shroud, and also you don’t have to worry about the clutch fan going bad either. I know my reasons are minor if not insignificant to me wanting to run an E-Fan on my Turbo-II. I have asked and spoken to a lot of veterans and they all tell me one thing "Nothing works better than the stock fan and shroud!" If that’s the case then why did Mazda go with E-Fans on the FD's when they first came out? Maybe it was due to a lot of R&D from Mazda before they went to E-Fans from the Stock clutch fan and shroud? All I can say is E-Fans do work if they are properly installed if they didn’t then all the newer cars would not be using them at all. I think the E-Fans are much more efficient and reliable than a clutch fan; then again this is my opinion. I want to run an E-Fan, but I am paranoid that with the AC and a FMIC that my car will run hot compared to running the stock fan and shroud. I will be upgrading to a Koyo, Fluidyne, or a Ron Davis radiator in the near future.
As far as cooling is concerned my car runs normal, I’m just worried that with the FMIC in place the radiator wont be getting adequate airflow which will cause me to overheat.

 

What happened is, the solder joints on those boards come loose. Other then that its a ***** out bad *** fan.


I think I might take Kevins idea a bit here. Might rig up a nice little 8 inch fan and mount it on the Condenser and make it come on when the AC is turned on..

 

Don't bother. I actually sourced and added the 10" aux. fan from the turbo/AT cars and put it on my car (which was originally an NA MT before I converted to turbo). I set it up to come on with the a/c compressor and it worked fine, but didn't make a damn bit of difference in a/c charge temps, and didn't save the system from overly high pressures (the little fan was running at the same time as the clutch fan, when I had my little accident with the freon discharge).

In contrast that escort fan on high will move a shitload of air. Some guys claim as much as 2800cfm...it's the same fan as the taurus and some other fords, and plenty of mustang and hotrod guys use them on other applications too. When the ****** kicks on while the hood is up, it will blow a shop rag laying on the alternator about 3 foot out of the engine bay.

 

My '86 Base is set up with an extra relay and fan to come on with the A/C as you guys have been talking about and it works really well. This was done by the previous owner of my car who was a Mazda Master Tech.

 

Absolutely. More of an improvement in traffic, but an improvement all around.


yes, the old school HKS with both pipes on the passenger side.

I will tell you once I get the power FC installed. No, I have not seen fit to gay up my interior with a bunch of gauges hanging everywhere, so I've been making due with the wideband and boost gauge in the instrument cluster surround. The power FC commander will display coolant temp (and air intake temp, and other stuff) so I am anxious to get it in.

My fan thermoswitch is activated at 207, and it runs about half the time while driving and 2/3 of the time while idling, which I'd consider normal.


Pluses of the efan are better looks, more room, less noise while accelerating, slight gain in power, and less chances of the alternator belt slipping when you remove the air pump. It is debateable whether the e-fan moves more air or cools better, but IMO the taurus/escort fans do. Negatives are lower reliability (mostly due to people's custom type R wiring that fails), greater stress on an alrealy weak/barely adequate charging system, and added cost/complexity.

The FD's have e-fans because the radiator is farther forward and also angled down at about 60* from the engine, making a shroud difficult to set up, Same for the rx-8s whch are set up almost the same way. Plus they use dual e-fans which allow for several stages/speeds for cooling under different conditions based on coolant temp and a/c activation.

 

I came across a stock electric fan and I am looking to add it to my A/C setup using a relay that allows it to come on with the A/C compressor. Does anybody have a little quick reference wiring diagram for hooking up a relay to do this with the stock electric pusher fan? Also, if I can't get r12 or freeze12 then am i going to have to get that kit posted on the first page to run r134?