http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2416000323

would I need anything else for my 88 gtu?

 

You will also need a small breather filter to go on your airpump, but thats about it. You may want to make some sort of a cold air box to isolate the filter from the hot engine compartment, so It sucks in cooler air.

 

where can I get the breather filter?

 

you could just shove some foam or something in the pipe....maybe some pantyhose.....

 

i got an intake like that of ebay
but it was from btnz......and he hasnt got the payment yet......
he doesnt respond to my emails much either..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ory=38634&rd=1

 

how is it?

 

Any auto parts store should have a breather filter that would work.

On another note, the stock filter inside the airbox has a surface area of about 90 sq in. Unless you add a cone filter with a greater surface area than 90 sq in, guess what you just did? Restricted airflow. And let in hot air.

 

Well, thats not necessarily true. Yes the stock filter is fairly large, but it still has to suck the air through the snorkel , and through the AFM.

 

exactly...the route the air takes through the factory airbox is complicated and any open element filter is more efficient and clears up a lot of space in the engine bay. A bigger filter vs. a smaller one vs. the stock box won't net any real difference in gains on an NA engine.

 

A cone filter doesn't eliminate the AFM, it's going to have to suck air through the AFM regardless. The snorkel is pretty restrictive. But unless you do a good job of isolating the cone filter from all that hot air, you've lost what little gain there may have been to begin with.

 

In the end, that's what it really boils down to. Clearing up space and weight (that stock airbox is fairly heavy).

 

I have to differ. An intake will give some gains, just not a whole lot without exhaust mods, and it won't be as noticeable with NAs. The stock filters are pretty damn restrictive. Your probably not going to notice 5hp.

 

yea I got a straight pipe =/

 

wow...i thought a cone filter was one of the best mods...

 

If you want a big power mod, skip the cone intake and go straight to exhaust. Then do whatever kind of intake set-up you like.

I seriously doubt any cone filter will give you 5 hp, but if someone can prove me wrong, I'd love to be proven wrong. 5 hp is a good bit.

I think I have an idea. Might take me a month or two, but I'd like to collect some different intake set-ups and have them dyno tested. ****? Yes. Necessary? Not really. But I think it would settle a few debates.

 

I know, I was just trying to say that I think the AFM is the major restriction, and not the filter.

 

a cone filter makes a nice difference with the sound of the car though. oh one thing about filters like that. i wouldn't get a random generic one, alot of them seem to be made very crappily. there is a post of a forum member that had one that came apart, got sucked up his intake and jammed his throttle body open while he was driving basically like having your gas pedal stuck to the floor. i'd spend the extra money for a k&n filter or something.

 

You can get a "crankcase vent" filter at your local generic auto parts store, and use that as a breather filter. You will also need some brackets to hold the hose in place.
http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm

Also, I would like to point out that the 86-88 AFM adapter on that Ebay product isn't designed very well because it doesn't transition from a round filter to a square AFM, but rather it is just round and will create turbulence where it meets your square AFM. Look at this well-designed HKS adapter and see how it transitions well from round to square to reduce drag. http://66.216.67.51/product.asp?0=214&1=319&3=553

Both the snorkel and the general layout of the box design cause a restriction, but it's not as much as what people make it out to be with respect to a somewhat stock NA 13B. In general, stock airboxes are designed for noise supression, particle separation, fuel economy, and/or other factors which take away from engine power. As with all restrictions (drag), the amount of horsepower gained or lost from a change in drag is relative to the mass airflow rate. Therefore, higher-horsepower engines will notice a greater increase/decrease in power than will lower-power engines. Also, turbochargers multiply air pressure, so increasing the initial intake pressure will yield more boost geometrically for a given compressor speed.

Yes, the original design is a "cold air" system. Replacing it with a "hot air" system may not add much to the performance from a standing start or low speed, but once the car gets moving, the intake air temperature lowers more toward ambient because the engine bay can't heat the larger volume and velocity of intake air as well as it could at lower speeds and volumes. However, a lot of it depends on where the intake is located, the efficiency of the engine's cooling and oil system, etc. Some "cold air boxes" actually create a restriction, so if you don't know what you are doing, it's probably best to stick with a deflector type system (not enclosed). Those with a standalone EMS are fortunate enough to be able to actually see any difference in air temperature and pressure, while everyone else is just guessing.

 

when i got mine i did notice the round to square transition was awful. I then took it to the grinder and we had our differences.........

needless to say i won and the maf is the only restriction.